93 ACCORD CODE 43 PROBLEM

Hello, HAVE A 93 ACCORD 188K AUTO 4-DR .
CAR HAS NEW,
WIRES
PLUGS
CAP
ROTOR
FUEL FILTER
VACCUM HOSES
BATTERY
02 SENSOR..
..
HAVING A PROBLEM WITH CODE 43, AND ALSO CAR NOW LOSSES POWER 20-30 MPH (HAVE TO LET OFF GAS) AND THEN PICKS RIGHT BACK UP, INTERMITTENLY. CAR RUNS REAL STRONG MOST OF THE TIME.
THERE IS A LITTLE OIL IN DIST CAP. CLEANED THIS NO HELP.
WHAT CAN I LOOK AT NEXT. .... THX KEN

Code 43 is a problem in the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) circuit OR the fuel supply system. I would get a a fuel pressure guage on there and try to get the car to die out on you, hold the RPM to 3000 (or what ever RPM range you are having the problem). If the fuel pressure drops, for some reason the fuel pump is shutting off.

Hello. ken........

First off,, Welcome to HAF... like i told you , here more people will be able to help you,, and Agent is a good one , very knowledgable ..

you said you replaced the o2 sensor,, did you replace it with a Honda sensor?? I am sure you have cleared the computer and test driven car since lte came on correct ??

Like agent said most of code 43 is due to a faulty HO2 sensor system,,,,,,,,,If you installed a Honda sensor, chk all the wiring on the connector make sure there aren't any loose wires, also there is a connector on the rt shock tower, unplug it and gently with a small needle nose plier , twist the male pins in the connector and reconnect it.. sometimes a poor connection will cause the code to come up..

Also what Agent said about hooking up a fuel pressure gauge and drive car with it is an excelent idea.. you stated car loses power at times,, chk the fuel pressure when that happens ..

I have also seen a few codes 43 issues which turned out to be a problem with the white wire ....

try these. reset computer and drive car ..if it still comes up than we have to trobleshoot it further . at the ecm itself.....

Hello,
I INSTALLED A BOSCH 02 SENSOR. IS THERE A BIG DIFFREENCE FROM THE HONDA. I DID CLEAR THE CODE (DISCONNECT THE BATTERY) AND IT CAME RIGHT BACK. I WILL NOT HAVE TIME IN THE NEXT FEW DAYS TO GET TO WORK ON THE CAR BUT I WILL CHECK THE SHOCK TOWER PINS.. THX KEN

quote:

ORIGINAL: collierville

Hello,
I INSTALLED A BOSCH 02 SENSOR. IS THERE A BIG DIFFREENCE FROM THE HONDA. I DID CLEAR THE CODE (DISCONNECT THE BATTERY) AND IT CAME RIGHT BACK. I WILL NOT HAVE TIME IN THE NEXT FEW DAYS TO GET TO WORK ON THE CAR BUT I WILL CHECK THE SHOCK TOWER PINS.. THX KEN

I will e honest with you ken,, i have seen a few Bosch o2 sensor have issues but i am not ready to condemn it, till we do some diagnostic work.........

Did you buy the bosch that plugs right in . or did you have to cut the wires and splice them ???

after you twist the pins.. remove the back up fuse , 7.5 amps , in the underdash fuse box for about 15-20 seconds ,, no need to disconnect the battery, than see if code comes up again,,

The only problem you will run into is with the fuel pressure guage is that the guage is in the engine bay and you drive the car from the passanger seat, thats why i said to hold the RPM at whatever range you are having the problem. Hopefully you can recreate the problem while the car is not in gear. The second thing about the O2 sensor is the that in my opinion, O2 sensors are pretty easy to diagnose assuming you have the right tools. All you need to diagnose an O2 sensor is a scan tool, but for you car that isn't cheap. If you can find a scan tool that will read live data from an OBD I scan tool you can diagnose it pretty easy. Pretty much you wanna let the car run for about 10-15 so the oxygen sensor has heated up. Once the oxygen sensor is ready to send data, hook up the scan tool and check the live data from the O2 sensor. The voltage of the O2 sensor should oscillate between 0 and 1v (0,1,0,1, etc but not exactly 0 and 1). If the voltage is stuck at 1 or 0 it means that the wiring could be bad/faulty. Now i could right another 10 lines of diagnosis, but i'm not going to. I'll right the rest if/when you get some results from a scan tool. You could just replace the O2 sensor (again), but thats not how i fix cars and it might not fix the problem. If you bought the universal O2 sensor, you might have some funky wiring causing the problem, and thats where the scan tool comes in handy b/c you can actually see what the computer is seeing and from that you can pin point if the wiring is bad and where the wiring could be bad.

quote:

ORIGINAL: deserthonda

First off,, Welcome to HAF... like i told you , here more people will be able to help you,, and Agent is a good one , very knowledgable ..

Can you tell the guys at AutoZone that?******** didn't even call me back.

quote:

ORIGINAL: AgentofDarkness

Code 43 is a problem in the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) circuit OR the fuel supply system. I would get a a fuel pressure guage on there and try to get the car to die out on you, hold the RPM to 3000 (or what ever RPM range you are having the problem). If the fuel pressure drops, for some reason the fuel pump is shutting off.

A large vacuum leak can also cause a code 43, but that probably wont cause his power loss.

quote:

ORIGINAL: AgentofDarkness

The only problem you will run into is with the fuel pressure guage is that the guage is in the engine bay and you drive the car from the passanger seat, thats why i said to hold the RPM at whatever range you are having the problem.

I use a gauge with a 5 foot hose, just run it in the passenger window so I can glance at it while driving/when it's acting up.

quote:

ORIGINAL: AgentofDarkness

O2 sensors are pretty easy to diagnose assuming you have the right tools. All you need to diagnose an O2 sensor is a scan tool, but for you car that isn't cheap.

You dont need a scantool, (though they are alot easier to use) a voltmeter will monitor the o2 just fine.

You could use a voltmemter, but you will have to hook it up to the harness where it plugs into the computer to accuratly diagnose it. Also, the O2 sensor voltage fluctuates several times a second and some voltmeters won't be able to change fast enough. You could prolly get away with it though.

IT WAS THE PLUG IN TYPE OF 02 SENSOR. NO WIRE SPLICES NEEDED...

have you inspected your EGR system?

Agent my man... it is very unlikely that a car owner would have a scan tool and for as much as they cost i am not going to advice him to get one ,,that's something for the shops........
As for the fuel pressure gauge hooking it up and riving , it was already answered by Chio, ,,i use it all the time when i go on test drives, just tape it to the windshield, at an angle that you can clearly see it while driving

Also you can use the voltmeter to test the o2 sensor .. done that many times myself as well

NO ON THE EGR SYSTEM YET. IT WILL BE A FEW DAYS BEFORE I GET A CHANCE TO WORK ON THE CAR AGAIN.. HOME A/C PROBLEMS. AND PAINTING A ROOM..AND THAT WORK THING GETS IN THE WAY.

at least you got the better one of the 2 ....
have you had the chance to twist those pins, clear the computer and drive the car??

Also,i forgot to ask a question,,,,,,,,,,how soon after clearing the ecm does the chk engine lite come on ??

does the lite come on and soon after car stumbles??

or does engine stumble and chk engine lite comes on ??

Also.if we need to do further diagnose, you need to have a multi-meter... a good one could cost a bit of money ,,you might want to ask yourself if it would cost more for you to invest on some of these tools ( pressure gauge- multimeter etc etc ) or have a shop do it for you... If you like to learn and experience than you might want to buy the tools Assuming you don't have them yet .......If you do plan on buying a multi-meter get your hand on a digital one ,, DO NOT buy the Wal-mart special..

anyho..... twist those pins, clear the ecm, drive car and let us know the results

THE CAR STUMBELS AFTER THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON. LIGHT COMES ON IN ABOUT 4-5 MILES, 10 MINUTES OR SO CITY/COUNTY TRAFFIC. I DO HAVE A MULTIMETER (FLUKE) AND ACCESS TO FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE.. SHOULD BE ABLE TO LOOK AT CAR ON WED/THUR MAYBE.... THX FOR THE HELP

Fluke is very good ..

you are welcome my friend ..keep us posted ..

STILL HAVE NOT HAD TIME TO WORK ON THE CAR AS OF YET . THANK YOU FOR ALL THE REPLY'S. ONE MORE THING TO ADD.
WHEN THE CAR WAS STARTED COLD TODAY THE RPM'S WERE BOUNCING UP AND DOWN (900-1800). LIKE I WAS PUTTING MY FOOT ON AND OFF THE GAS.
ALSO THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND THE CAR RUNNING ROUGH HAPPEN , IN EITHER ORDER.

Was this issue with your accord ever resolved?