Another f22 turbo question vtec or non vtec???

I just bought a 95 Accord Coupe.....was thinking of f20b swap but then started realizin i am not the saving type of person so thats outta the question now.....i was wondering if i was planning on puttin an f22 on around 20-25 pounds of boost...where would i start first??? dont treat me as a newb i know what im talkin about...i want opinions.....its a daily driver.....i was going to buy a f22 block then have it balanced, cleaned and honed for the beginnin....then do the internals.....rods n pistons....n valve spring n retainers.....i know its money im talkin but i can werk around dat....now for the head would it make sense to port n polish a non vtec head or p&p the vtec head??? tryna do around 350+whp with the option to go further and its not going to be driven on 25psi prolly around 10psi everyday so let me know

for that much boost on an F-series, you will need a full build: pistons, rods, block guard.  Then you are going to need upgraded half-shafts because that kind of boost is going to make about 450HP.  You should also have E-Manage for that setup and an MSD ignition with NGK double platinum plugs ..... if you want nitrous also, then you have no choice but to use ZEX plugs.  The f22 turbo project has been covered extensively, so if you search for it on this site, you should find answers to all your questions.  Also, please add the necessary car info to your profile signature for future posts.

His '95 is OBDI so it may be cheaper to chip an ECU or buy a reputable chipped one (I know some good places if you want) and then go to a tuning shop and have them tune it with Crome or Uberdata. I'll go take a look later and see if I can find some decent base tunes for a boosted F22 and probably 450cc or 550cc injectors.

E-Manage allows you to change the injector duty cycle ..... I think spark timing too, but I might be wrong on that.

im thinkin if i should just take the engine thats in the car currently because i have another car......but the problem is its a geo lol....but dont sleep its dohc i scrape lsv all da time with it but stilll its a geo......but still no one has anse=wered if it makes any sense for a turbo non v or turbo vtec f series???? i need to know that before i do something that doesnt make sense in the long run n plus i dont have money to waste.......

that last post needs to be clarified ..... IDK what you are saying other than your geo is fast (lol, that's actually one of the funniest things I've heard in a while!!).  Please use clear, plain english so I know what you are asking and/or saying.

Take a look at this thread: F22 or F23 (boosted) The same issue is being debated, but not using that much boost.

falkore, it you can change the duty cycles with E-Manage then you should be able to adjust the spark as well. It wouldn't make to have one and not the other since they go hand in hand, especially with boost. I believe the higher RPMs you drive in boost the more retarded the spark has to be, but I'm not a turbo guy so I don't know.

 
 
What would he need upgraded halfshafts for? People have been using the stock axles on their boosted cars for years. Unless he plans on straight out drag racing the car, the stock axles are fine. There are more options out there than E-manage, especially since he's OBD1 he can get a P28 Ecu and have it chipped and run any of the free tuning software programs out there for half the price of E-manage. Double platinum plugs on a boosted car = bad things. He doesnt HAVE to use Zex plugs either. NGK BKR7E are available at any parts store and a helluva lot cheaper. You want a step 1 or 2 colder copper plugs, not platinum. An upgraded ignition isnt a must either, it can help but isn't totally necessary.

Why are plats bad for boost?  That's one I haven't heard.  The comment for ZEX only was refering to boost plus nitrous.

If it's an auto he'll need a P72/75 ECU, they have the ability to communicate with the TCM. A P28 will work fine if it's a manual. The only challenege is finding a tuning shop with the knowledge to use Crome or Uberdata, but they are both pretty straightforward.

from what I hear, block guards hardly do much of anything, if anything at all, because if the cyl were to rupture it wouldnt rupture where the block guards are put anyway...
but thats just what I hear.

You will need an upgraded fuel system too, high flow fuel rail + injectors, possibly a new fuel pump, ported intake, not to mention youll have to use racing gas (100+ octane) with that level of boost...
upgraded valve springs, a camshaft meant for turbo applications would be optimal, software/hardware to control the ign, fuel, etc, upgraded head gasket, split forged rods + pistons, preferably a racing clutch, along with a lot of other stuff I cant really remember at this juncture in time...

One of my friends is current doing something similar to what you want to do, only on a mitsu eclipse, and only 15ish PSI...
With low PSI (6-7) you dont have to worry about any of that stuff^
High PSI is where the money, and the power is.

this is my plan for the accord now everyone around my way says aww that POS aint gonna beat nothing but i mainly want to scrape my stepfathers mustang its an 2003 gt......ill try to put pics up of my car n the mustang to shbow u what im talking bout....everything on his car i put on for him.....like thew underdrive pulleys,cai,timing adjuster,throttle body and the plenum plus he has full exhaut im thinking he'll run low 13's high 12's and i wantg to be running mid to low 12's is it possible or am i wasting time and money???

Its a nice plan for the car, but if your only motivation is to beat your stepfathers gt, its a waste of money.  Bro, im new to Hondas, but I would imagine you'll end up spending 7-8K easy just to prove you have a faster car than someone.
 
If you really love cars and want to race it a lot and show it at car shows, then I say go for it!

its a nice idea, but one MAJOR thing that REALLY kills those dreams is the racing gas factor... youll be paying a good $4 a gallon for gas, at maybe 15 mpg with those levels of boost.

your better off selling the car and buying a more powerful one, or even buying a V6 and putting a twin turbo on it (now that would be cool)

no its not only to just beat the mustang that would be stupid but it sure will b funny to see his face....its not even that even before my honda i had a 91 supra turbo n he was not leaving me....it was a neck and neck race.....but i like hondas for some reason....i want to BUILD my car not buy it fast......anyone can buy a fast car and hop in and run it but you feel more accomplished when you build it and beat a true sports car with a grocery getter.....u feel me???.....but i was thinkin i was getting a lil bit in over my head and i know i would have to put a good 4-6 grand in the car to be able to compete with the mustang.....n btw nafango in nyc we are already payin $ 3.69 for 93 octane so $ 4 for race gas wouldnt make that muck of a difference lol........

Mustangs have never been "sports" cars.  They are barely muscle cars.  The GTs barely hold that honor.  That was saved for The super sports and the shelbys of years past.  Now you wanna talk sports car, try an italian car, there is sport for you. 
 
besides which, the 03 gt has what 260 hp or so?  You don't need 450 hp in your accord to beat that.  Even with his upgrades your looking at maybe 275 to the wheels or so.  The accord is a decent amount of weight lighter, given its fwd and you'll have issues sticking the extra hp to the ground but still, 450 is a little overkill to just beat a gt.
 
How bout those new cobras with 500hp!?  That would be something to beat.

quote:

ORIGINAL: FarRockAccord

.... beat a true sports car with a grocery getter.....

ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!    Grandma's Grocery Getter!!!!!

quote:

ORIGINAL: FarRockAccord

.... in nyc..... 

Sweet!!!!  I'm in NYC right now!!!  I live in northern NJ.

Although I applaud you for your amibitions but I agree with the others.... its a little overkill

You could probably run 10-12 psi on stock internals and Beat the GT.

Also a boosted car that wasn't made for boost is not a good DD especially if you do end up running 20+psi.

I kno wat ur sayin girly...i dont plan on driving it on 20+psi evryday....i got pics of the stuff i got so far.....i got nitrous kit for it too....but thats for l8a when i get the fmi....all i need now is to get the sleeves,rods&pistons,and a good tune......dyno sheets will b posted in the nexx couple of months...