Bolts that hold front rotor problem

The bolts that hold the front right rotor on my 97 are stripped.....I noticed this when I was rotating the tires the other day. Am I hosed? someway around this?

i had the same problem when putting on my big brake kit,
I had to drill mine out, here's the kicker, your actually supposed to use a special tool to get them out, the trick is to apply ionward pressure and then twist. i learned the hard way. replacement screws were oem honda only as well!!!

i have a 2000 so we have different models, however on mine, the rotor holds on just fine, i just put my wheel back, zero problems.

i checked this out with a mechanic, before i did it.


good luck

easy out them. a drill bit that turnes to the left. before that extinguish all other possibilities. when i work on acuras i notice the same problem.

i take a phillips bit that goes on a drill, i get a 1/4 socket with a 1/4 drive. also a big ass sledge. take the bit and put it into the screw. slam it with the sledge about ten or twenty times hard until you see the rust dust full from behind the rotor. then put the ratchet on the bit and try to turn.


lightshow

even more options:

I used a propane torch to put heat into the disk retaining screws, that was enought to break them loose.

I was worried about stripping them too, was going to drill out the head of the screw, then pull off the rotor. Once you have it off you should have enough threads sticking out get a set of vice grips onto whats left of the screw and spin it out.

definately a good idea. just whatever you do, go down to ace hardware or whatever and replace ALL of them when you get them off.


lightshow

You could also use an extractor to back them out.small hole drill them first then use your extractor tool to back them out..

WheelBrokerAng

quote:

ORIGINAL: MR.97ACCORD

The bolts that hold the front right rotor on my 97 are stripped.....I noticed this when I was rotating the tires the other day. Am I hosed? someway around this?

quote:

ORIGINAL: dinzer

your actually supposed to use a special tool to get them out, the trick is to apply ionward pressure and then twist. i learned the hard way. replacement screws were oem honda only as well!!!

Are you reffering to an impact screw driver? is that the proper name? I did the brakes on an acura once and ran into this issue, I ended up doing what lightshow did and just a tad differnet though.... I used a flathead bit that fits just inside of the phillips slot and pounded it in..

You do need an impact screwdriver to remove those screws, but they do not need to be reinstalled. Their only function is to keep the rotor on the hub during assembly. They are a PITA to get out, but if you have an impact screwdriver and a little patience they will usually come out. You can drill them out if you have to.

You know guyz we are a pretty smart bunch of people in here.
Every one has a very good grip on the ways to get this job done...I know that we all must have had to do this ourselves once or twice.

I for one am very PROUD of the people in this forum and I'm glad to be associated with you all.

Now...Please keep the language Clean and I'll stay out of your posts...
WheelBrokerAng

Did i use dirty language? If i did i apologize.

IF you don't re-install those screws you'd better be sure you torque all of your lug nuts to the same specifications or you could cause some issues.... without those screws in there you get to a "floating rotor" situation (same as the new ford Focus does...) that simply means that it relies on the rim/hub to maintain it's postion, it's pinched between the two and if it's not kept even it can wear funky and you'll go through pads faster...

Yeah, not all cars have locking nuts on the rotors, usually they are just pressed on and you have to slap the hell out of it with a rubber mallet to get it off.

Actually, if you looked closly at the rotor you would see two holes (aside from the 2 for the screws). You put a bolt in each hole and turn the two bolts equally. This will push against the hub and rotor will come off. The rubber mallet is unneccesary. I don't think that those two little screws can hold the rotor onto the car during normal driving. ALWAYS torque the lug nuts, not just if you don't put the screws back on. I take the screws off and throw them away because they are a BIG PITA to remove so i don't want to have to ever have to deal with them again, and since they don't do anything no harm, no foul.

yooooo guys .... he said 97 accord . those are hub ove rotors,, they DO NOT have the screws, they have ,4 ,,,14 mm bolts..those phillip screws you are talking about was on accords up to 89 and since 98 ,, they are used on rotor over hub.........90-97 accords it was hub over rotors.. ,,quite a bit more work to replace those rotors ..

Mr 97 why are you concerned that those bolts ares tripped ?? are you planning on replacing the front rotors ?? if not do not worry about it.....if you are let me know i will tell you a little trick that it has worked for me in the past......

tell me about the trick?

quote:

Mr 97 why are you concerned that those bolts ares tripped ?? are you planning on replacing the front rotors ?? if not do not worry about it.....if you are let me know i will tell you a little trick that it has worked for me in the past......

yea i wanna know this trick too. i was starting a brake job the other day and ran into this problem. the head was rounded off on one of the rotor to hub bolts. can rotors be turned with hub still attached? it seemed like i saw someone do this once.

yea i wanna know this trick too. i was starting a brake job the other day and ran into this problem. the head was rounded off on one of the rotor to hub bolts. can rotors be turned with hub still attached? it seemed like i saw someone do this once.
[/quote]


yes they can turn them on the car.....rotors

quote:

ORIGINAL: MR.97ACCORD

tell me about the trick?

this has worked for me many times so i hope it will work for you..............
get a hammer and hit the head of the bolt making it flatter ( wider ) get a good socket if socket is worn this will not work , 6 point socket , DO NOT use a 12 point socket . if socket will not go over the bolt after you have hammered the bolt, hammer the socket into the bolt, the tighter the better grip it will have , get a breaker bar or impact wrench if available. and remove the bolt,
make sure that if you do use a breaker bar , it is straight , if it is not straight socket will slip out .. .........if you di it right , it should work for you as well..