Catalytic Convertor

Hi All,
 
I appreciate all the good advice I have gotten from this forum. I have another issue with my car. My Check Engine Light came on and it is Code PO420. That is telling me my catalytic convertor needs to be replaced. I am wondering can I replace this myself or would it be best to take it into the shop for this kind of repair. I have called the local muffler shops and they want about 400 Dollars installed. I can buy the part from the local parts store for 159.00. But I looked under the car and the bolts look all rusted. What does everyone recommend? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

its not all too hard to replace yourself, if the bolts break off it makes it a little bit difficult, then a torch is usually necessary, you can easily cheat the ECU into thinking the cat is doing its job with a o2 cheater for cheap money

well its not really that difficult..i think you just need to soak those rusted bolts with WD40 and just be carefull not to damage the bolts...

but other than that its..easy..only thing thats will be tricky is removing the bolts

Thanks guy for the advice and tips. I mean they look rusted on there. What would be a good lubricant besides wd40 to remove them? Any other types? Thanks.

try some pb blaster or liquid wrench.  

What''s stopping you from just getting under there and messing with it?

ADVICE:  Be very careful to not break the o2 sensor!!!  It''s expensive!!!  Lots of PB Blaster there!!!!

Well what it stopping me is the fact I am pretty strong and I have been known to break bolts off. PITA if you know what I mean, but you guys have given me great advice so I think I might attempt it. Thanks.
 
 

Well I was going to buy the catalytic convertor and I was at the dealer buying some atf-z1 and talking to the parts guy and he stated that all the aftermarket catalytic convertors he has seen will throw out a check engine. He stated to me to buy a Honda catalytice convertor and not buy an aftermarket. Is this true? Thoughts?

yeah its true that it will throw a check engine light if you go with the aftermarket cat..but theres a way around that...i think you can just go to a local mufflershop and have them make the thing that tricks the o2 sensor so that the CEL wont come on..i forgot what its called and im out of words so sorry if this wasnt clear enough...

Does anyone know this trick to fix the CEL with aftermarket catalytic conertors? It still does not make sense at all. I do not know why you would replace the CAT and it still will the CEL lighr on a new part. Any ideas? Thanks.
 

because if your just buying the cheap "high flow" converters on ebay or somthing like that your thats just a pipe..thats i am almost certain that its the same as test pipe..and test pipes..thats y if you got those kinds your CEL will most certainly light on..

Well I am talking about buying a cat let''s say at Autozone and there is this supposed fix, but I do not see it at all and talking to the guys at Honda they even get cars in from Midas and Meineke that the CEL keeps coming on according to what I have seen...Anymore information would be greatly appreciated.
 
Thanks.

Not too long ago I had to replace the Cat on my 98 Accord. Went with one from Random Technology. The CEL has not come on since.  Has been about 2 months now.

You can not just soak those bolts in WD40 that will do nothing. WD40 is a lubricant not a rust penetrate. You best bet is to get a Torch and cut the old bolts out put the new cat in with new bolts. It is not hard at all. It is fairly simple. You will need a Torch though. A High flow cat would work fine, a cat from catco would be good also. 

quote:

ORIGINAL: accrd94ex

You can not just soak those bolts in WD40 that will do nothing. WD40 is a lubricant not a rust penetrate. You best bet is to get a Torch and cut the old bolts out put the new cat in with new bolts. It is not hard at all. It is fairly simple. You will need a Torch though. A High flow cat would work fine, a cat from catco would be good also. 

Sorry bud ..... a little wrong info there.  WD40 is a penetrant and cleaner, not a lubricant.  The name WD40 means that it was the 40th formula that they tried for Water Displacement.  PB Blaster works better, but WD40 will free up stuck bolts.  Supposedly PB Blaster is magnetically charged to penetrate better, deeper and faster, but I find it hard to believe that any spray liquid could hold a magnetic charge.

I''ve seen some small operation penetrants that outperform PB, but for something that is easy to find, PB Blaster is the way to go to loosen bolts.  WD40 also works and tends to already be in many households ...... 3-4 cans scattered around in various places in my case.