Headers

I have an intake n a cat back now i need the header.. so here is the one that i found on ebay does this look lagit? i realize eaby may not be the best option but this seemed to look alright.. any thoughts ?
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-02-Honda-Accord-Stainless-Header-LX-DX-EX-SE-F23B-99_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33631QQihZ016QQitemZ260179796282QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
 Also i am wondering about installation? how hard is that to do myslef. im really worried about rusted out bolts n taking the old off... ?
  Thanks,
            Chris

The 4 cylinder loses a good amount of low-end power when you put a header on.  Also, the link is for a racing header that eliminates the cat.  Do you plan to buy your inspection stickers illegally?  Or swap out the headers with the stock manifold and cat to inspect the car?

The bolts will most likely be rusted.  A friend of mine did a cat-back install last week and found that the cat nuts were rusted on and the studs are press-fit to the cat.  He had to cut the bolts and studs off, drill out the bolts and use new bolts, nuts, washers and lock washers.  Do you have the cobolt drill bits to drill out hardened bolts?  He told me the set cost about $1000.  He's also a master machinist.

That header is also crap.  It will likely leak or fall apart in a year or sooner.
If you are going to go cheap, buy Megan or OBX.  If you buy OBX, you need to buy a new gasket as their gasket that is included is crap.

im going DC for mine. Id rather pay more and have a name behind it so if/when something goes wrong i have someone to complain to.
 
Falkore: I find that interesting seeing that i will either be replacing the cat with a hi flo, or a "Racing" header. The thing about the bolts intrests me. I plan on doing this insatl with a friend. Would you mind sharing a little info as to what gen your friend has? Im imagining this is a problem that occurs on older model cars because of their time on the road. But last night i was under my car doing an oil change (Brrr it got cold quic here in NY) and i noticed that mine have a considerable amount of rust on them as well.

Mine were pretty rusted, but with some Kroil they came right off.

Ended up using some new bolts we found from Home Despot.

ok thats good to know actually, how long ago did you do yours?

Ahh sorry.. I thought I was in another thread....

Either way, Kroil does great on rusted bolts.

Yeah ignore this post.. i couldn't delete it (or figure out how anyway)

Megan comes with a one year warranty I believe.  many people are happy with their Megan Header as well.  Velocifero has one on his H22

quote:

ORIGINAL: Fenix

im going DC for mine. Id rather pay more and have a name behind it so if/when something goes wrong i have someone to complain to.

Falkore: I find that interesting seeing that i will either be replacing the cat with a hi flo, or a "Racing" header. The thing about the bolts intrests me. I plan on doing this insatl with a friend. Would you mind sharing a little info as to what gen your friend has? Im imagining this is a problem that occurs on older model cars because of their time on the road. But last night i was under my car doing an oil change (Brrr it got cold quic here in NY) and i noticed that mine have a considerable amount of rust on them as well.

you wont regret getting the dc sports header
and i heard megan racing makes a great header too

That header does not replace the cat, it bolts to your original cat. Get some PB Blaster or Kroil and a propane torch will help get those rusted bolts off. You don't need some special $1000 tool to drill out those bolts either should you have to, you can do it with a regular drill. It'll take longer and been a pain in the ass but its doable.

One of the reasons for the increase in costs of DC versus OBX, is DC has been carb certified, OBX is not. THe cost of having and keeping the header carb approved is added to the price. But of course that isn't the only reasons.

quote:

ORIGINAL: BlkCurrantKord

That header does not replace the cat, it bolts to your original cat. Get some PB Blaster or Kroil and a propane torch will help get those rusted bolts off. You don't need some special $1000 tool to drill out those bolts either should you have to, you can do it with a regular drill. It'll take longer and been a pain in the ass but its doable.

that's what i was thinking too

I'd go with spaz's Kroil stuff or PB blaster ..... torch as a last option.  The bolts will be rusted no matter what year the car is .... the heat causes rust very quickly.

I got my whole exhaust on ebay for my accord and its fine. i use the stock cat right now (yes i know it restricts it a tad). I like it a lot. i have to say there aint mush low end power but it definately helps when vtec kicks in. I wish i could do a name brand part like greddy but i guess im a cheap ass. lol

so i'm kinda new around here, but i have been thinking about picking up the DC Sports headers for awhile. i just want to know if they are difficult to put on, or if i need any exotic tools before i jump into it. thanx in advance.

No exotic tools.  Just a socket set, a breaker bar, some PB Blaster or Kroil as recommended above, and some gloves (unless you like to bleed.)  Oh yeah, and some patience.  Some beer wouldn't hurt.  And some earplugs for any nearby children so they don't hear you uttering 4 letter words.
 
It is possible you may need a propane torch, a floor jack, and some jackstands (or ramps)

An impact gun would help more than the breaker bar, but both are desired.  The impact gun works in tighter spaces.

I would consider an impact gun "exotic."
How in the crap can an impact gun work in tighter spaces than a socket & a small breaker bar?

An electric impact gun isn't too big a deal.  If you are under the car with it on jackstands, I'd be concerned about pulling it off the stands using a bar, and also you may not have much room with the ground there and all. 

Note that the impact gun needs "exotic" sockets ..... hardened.

my buddy has an impact gun, not air powered but it works just as well. It wasnt expensive either. I think its nikita brand or something, i cant remember. Anyway it was a great purchase, well worth the money paid. As far as being under the car, i def recomend ramps over jack stands when doing work like that. Its always un-nerving working under a car held up by anything other than a lift, but the ramps add a little piece of mind. you can always add the jack stands as a back up.

thanx for the help guys. prolly going to get a set and put them on this weekend.

Using my high school's lift i raised it up, and with some sockets and a 1/4" bar for torque, took care of every thing in my exhaust swap. its all reusable except i cut the hangars off because the bolts were really rusted and i didnt want to f*ck with them. Took about 5 hrs for 3 people. mainly because of inexperience. Bear in mind that was the full thing. The header wasnt too hard.

WOW .... 5 hours with a lift?!?  Since you have a real shop to use, why didn't you just chop up the stock exhaust with an asbestos wheel?  Then you just have to worry about the 3 bolts on the cat.  PB Blaster and an impact gun at 200 psi would take that off in a half hour!

Yeah 5 hours is a bit much; but oh well, it's done eh!?