Hydrolock Scare!!!

Are we now limited to how much text we can post or something?

Well I was driving in the rain last night. Never happened before to me until i put my new bumper on. It pretty much leaves the AEM CAI air filter in plain sight (which i didnt realize till now). So I was guessing that since i was driving in the rain, the rain was comming through the hole and pretty much soaking down my exhaust. Now i was just cruising down the road to get to Wal-mart and engine just all of a sudden bogs down and shuts off.

Wow

So i box off my intake, Start the car and white smoke/steam comes out of the exhaust. I get home Slowly but i get there. I go out today and my car runs normal. I take it down the road and thry to redline it just to make sure it runs good. It hits about 4k PRM and prety much stops there. So i try it again and It backfires? and lets loose the the redline.

After this elaborate story, Is it possible that there was sitting water in my engine this morning? Is it possible that I still bent a rod or caused some kind of minor/major damage to my engine?

no, tha water pro bly damged a sensor or seal, casue i had seen water get suck into an engine and t did the exact same thing to this other guy that you are describing, bring it in to have it checked out, my buddy had actually need to do something big like replace a piston or something, but idk if that was just bad care, or becasue of the water getting sucked in

....

Now it does like a rev limiter at 5k RPM neutral...

If I were you, I''''d try some drygas and seafoam, then reset the ECU.

What will that do for me? Dry it out?? Do i put it in and start or sit?

The drygas will get injected via the fuel injectors and will mix with any water in the engine to allow it to burn ..... FYI, there probably isn''t any water left in the cylinders since you''ve already gotten it to run ...... just a precaution.

The seafoam will clean the intake manifold and will get any trapped water out of there.

The ECU reset will clear bad behavior caused by a fixed problem.


This will all only cost you $10 and about a half hour of time.

My car is Fuel injected, I have no carb to pour it in, where do i pour it?? So do you think there is extensive damage to the engine??? Im scared!! Like Freaking out! I mean i tachs at 5k RPM now.. Should i reset the ECU after doing all this then??

Seafoam gets sucked into the intake via the brake booster line.  Drygas goes in the gas.  I don''t think that you actually hydrolocked the engine, but you may have blown a sensor as mentioned earlier.  I''m surprised there are no CEL''s.  Does the check engine light come on for a second when you start the car?  I wouldn''t be surprised if there is a CEL, but also a burnt out bulb.  If you have an AutoZone nearby, they read codes for free .... you should check this out.

Reset the ECU after the Seafoam.  Maybe again after you run the drygas for 100 miles too.

My car is a 94'' Accord.

I cant remember where to jumper for ECU readouts or how to restart the ECU. Autozone doesnt have the right reader for my car. and what kind of sensor could i have blown?

Ok I remembered. I jumpered the diagnostic plug and got this.  Engine: Long-Short-Short & ABS: Long-Short-Short

OK, I think that''s the no code sequence ..... also tells us that the CEL light works.  The easiest way to reset the ecu is to pull the battery + lead and touch it to the - terminal to discharge any capacitors that may be in the system...... leave it for 10-15 minutes and plug the battery back in.

What is the code reading though?? I looked and the long one is telling there is a code or break right? Then the short ones are the readings right? So i looked up the codes i think here: http://www.troublecodes.net/honda/

I think it''''s MAP sensor ** ??? That would make sense since water got into intake ? OR is it the Faulty ECU one *-**???

ECU code 12 = EGR

Good ECU with no stored codes shines the CEL on solid.

Failed ECU supposedly shows CEL but doesnt turn it on at all when the connector is jumpered.



ABS codes...
(this is for the older system WITH ABS fluid reservoir)
First long flash & long pause arent part of a code.
Short flashes for 1st digit.
short-ish pause.
Short flashes for 2nd digit.
long pause.
Next code (or repeat 1st code).

Alright, I flushed out with Sea Foam and Drygas, it runs smoother. But I still have a limited RPM range of 5500RPM when i rev it. I just feels like it rev limits and runs rough.

Is there anything else that would cause a Limited RPM range? Like a fouled spark plug or distributor cap? Also, the EGR vac hose was just unplugged for some reason, i probably bumped it one time.

Or water in the crankcase??? I just (forgot to in the first place) checked the MILKY dipstick. could that be it?

Yeah.. I feel retarded now for reving my engine without checking the oil... 

engine will NOT rev to redline in neutral.