Spark Plugs

Was going to replace them myself but noticed that they are not the easiest to get out. Is there a special tool for the job. And any tips on getting it done. Thank you

Year, Trim (LX,EX, etc..), and engine please.  Put that in your signature like mine on your profile.
It's an easy job, but we have to know what engine you are working on here.

is it I4 or V6? u can usually use an extension to get them out.

Only imports i've ever had trouble changing plugs on is a mitsushity.  Just need a spark plug socket and an extension, presto.

the rear 3 in the v6 can be tough, but like everyone's said, a spark socket and an extension is all that is needed.  I'd add a teloscoping magnet to make it easier.

Where in the crap can I buy a telescoping magnet?  I've been looking for one....obviously in the wrong places (autozone, etc..)

Mine came with the toolbox that my grandfather gave me.  He use to own an Esso station (Exxon back in the day!).  If you know someone with their own business, I'd look in Grainger.  Otherwise, try online.

double-post .... sorry

http://www.magnetsource.com/Solutions_Pages/pickuptools.html

http://www.professionalequipment.com/mannix-telescopic-inspection-mirror-magnetic-pickup-tool-set-mr03-mg02/magnet-tools/

Cool...Thanks! 

sorry. Its a 98 ex coupe. And 4 cylinder engine. But guess its already been answered

All you need is a spark plug socket, a socket wrench, and an extention as stated above.  Maybe some anti-sieze compound to apply to the threads of the new plugs.  When I changed mine I bought a cheap beam type torque wrench($10) at AutoZone so I wouldn't under or over tighten the new plugs.

No problem 00.
 
Kyle:  A little di-electric grease is good also.  It'll help the boot not fuse to the plug like the old ones .... at least for a while.  It helps the conductivity also, I've been told.

How much torque do I need to apply when the spark plug is installed.
Thanks  

I think it's a quarter turn after the plugs are hand-tight ..... I'll check though.

Here are a couple of tips to help assure the success of changing spark plugs. The first is to remove spark plugs from aluminum cylinder heads only when the engine is cool. Since aluminum and steel expand and contract at different rates, removing spark plugs from an aluminum cylinder head while hot can actually cause thread and cylinder head damage. Before installing the spark plugs, make sure the threads are clean and in good condition. If in doubt, run a thread chaser through the plug opening in the cylinder head. Most plug manufacturers recommend that you do not use an anti-seize compound, since one has already been applied to the plugs at the factory. Next, install the spark plugs finger tight and, it using a taper seat spark plug, use a ratchet to rotate 1/16 of a turn. If using a gasket seat type spark plug, after installing finger tight, turn 1/4 to 5/8 of a turn. If this procedure is followed, spark plugs will not back out nor will they seize in the cylinder head.

courtesy of   http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/70/127/

Torque to 13 ft lbs.

thanks 00!

Thanks a million,
Finally, I replaced my spark plugs. I bought Denso Iridium IK16 spark plug from Autozone. It was $9.99 per piece. cheaper than sparkplugs.com. I am pretty happy with new spark plugs. I can feel smoother and more power. But I changed it before I read falkore24's post.

I applied anti-seize compound since Autozone clerk's recommendation. Didn't know plug manufacture already applied anti-seize compound. Do you think I need to take off and remove the anti-seize compound I applied?

This is great site and I am enjoying a lot now.

By the way, I bought beam style torque wrench $15 one and works great. at least meet my needs at this time.

I think you will be ok leaving the anti seize on there.  The only time that beam type torque wrench won't serve your needs is if you are not able to see the dial straight on to be able to tell when to stop torqueing.  I have not encountered this situation yet, but I am sure I eventually will.

wowww did someone really refer to a mitsu as a mitsu"shity"? one of my good friends got an evo8 with some mods and its much faster than you could EVER make an accord. subi's got more problems mechanically, i think. changing plugs = flat 4 = drop engine to change plugs. haha

you really do not need to waste your time torquing the spark plugs,
, I have replaced thousands of plugs and never torqued a single one . Just tighten them up till the bottom and go a 1/4 to 1/3 turn more ,,( using a 3/8 in drive ) and like it waas adviced use a tiny bit of anti-seize on the threads before installing them 

totally agree with you.  also, many of the plugs are pregapped so i don't worry about getting a gap gauge.

True that you USALLY don't have to fix the gap, but it's a good idea to check it and also make sure that they are all the same.  Strange things can happen in shipping and a dropped box is not uncommon.  If that dropped box hit the ground with your plug's electrode, there's a good chance that the gap is smaller than it should be.  Like I said, the gap is USUALLY correct, but I still check it when installing plugs.