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The checklist

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ncsgoofy
8/5/2006 1:54:36 PM
8 PSI WG spring

OIL line

Synapse missing link

Thats all right now. Thought i would start with the cheapest parts lol.

Coming soon:

Walbro pump

Water lines

OBX manifold

downpipe, yes it is a h22, ill make it work

turbo, intercooler, BOV, WG, boost controller

FMU


Total comes to: ~$1367 shipped
tom15425
8/5/2006 2:37:58 PM
You'll have to have a way to add more fuel when your at boost. There are quite a few ways to do that. The best/safest and easiest way is to get a new ecu in my opinion (since your not tricking your computer in anyway), but it's also the most expensive. Then there is the VAFC hack, adding an injector before the intake manifold (not too good), Boost dependent PFR with or with out new injectors.... I think if you install that FPR you'll be about set. To my understanding it is boost sensitive so, it increases fuel pressure as boost levels increase. Installed after the stock pressure regulator. Please correct me of I'm wrong, still learning myself.
mbo1985
8/5/2006 3:20:33 PM
Sounds like you have it down, tom.

You will need the FMU, like tom said, to add the extra fuel in the engine. There's no point in cramming more air in if you can't add the proper amount of fuel to go with it. FMU is probably the cheapest way to do it and with that missing link you bought it sounds like you're going the FMU route.

I'm stilling running an FMU setup (working on a chipped ECU to replace the FMU) and it works good. It's not the greatest, but hell it will get you boosting for cheap!
ncsgoofy
8/5/2006 3:20:49 PM
I thought that the Walbro and FMU was for increased fuel usage. I caould buy a new ECU but im running auto, so its a little getting a computer that will work.
ncsgoofy
8/5/2006 3:22:31 PM
Ok then what FMU ratio do i need. You used a 12:1 right mbo?
mbo1985
8/5/2006 6:08:17 PM
yeah, I have a 12:1. Never leans out under boost. I've seen people use a 10:1 and 8:1, but I'd rather be safe than sorry..
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