turbo fuel management

ok, what im planning to do when i am setting up the turbo, or even before i set it up. I plan on putting an aem fuel rail, but im trying to figure out which would be better in the long run, changing the fpr, or just adding the fmu. Any suggestions?

if you use just a FPR then you need to get a piggyback or stand alone engine managment. using the fmu allow you to use your stock computer which i would recommend. i feel bad for so many people that put so much time and money and blood into a honda turbo project, and it just never runs worth a damn because they jumped into a sophisticated engine management too quick

o yea and a wideband o2 sensor. and probably wouldnt be a bad idea to get a gm 2 bar map sensor too

Any suggestions on where to snag a 2bar map? At least one that is designed like the stock map, or do those not exist? The inital findings for the 2bar involved a vastly different map from the normal stock one.

And i see why you say the wideband o2 sensor, the purpose of it is just sexy.
I will assume there would be a need for two of them considering our happy little hondas have 2 o2 sensors, even though when i had the exhaust manifold changed, i have no idea where they moved that o2 sensor to. I am guessing they moved it down pre cat, and the second is post cat, but i need to look at that.

Any suggestion on brands for the o2?

i like the plx 500, and turbo xs has always been a good company. that stuff is serious though. i would really recommend just going with a basic setup until you get a real good grasp on your engine. i cant tune a fuel system. youll fix one flat spot/rish spot/lean spot on the map, and create another one somewhere else. you should add a good 1000 dollars in tuning time over at a good shop just to make sure that your engine runs recent. when you dont have a fully built motor with 20 or 30 psi running in it, it just doesnt make sense. you will get another 20 or 30 hp out of your motor when you do a full engine management setup, but the cost of the equipment plus the cost of the tuning time, you talking thousands for that little gain in hp. mbo turned a knob on his car and gained that much easily.

also one more thing.....when you have an all out motor. the problem will start being the ability to even produce enough boost. your motor just wont make 30 psi on stock tuning and fuel. youll be at the track with 104 octane and a 25 psi spring in your wastegate and on your run you were only making 18 psi, and you going to be like damn whats the deal. thats when you go to the airport and get 116 and take it to the shop and have them set a tune for that fuel that you can download when you hit the track with 20 gallons of 116, and then when your done, you download your map off your laptop for 92 ocatane that runs 13-15 psi for the street and drive home.

lol, oh trust me, i know that. I havent even touched the cost barrier for my project, hell, im going over 1000 dollars under what i planned on a turbo setup. But I plan on an ems and a full engine rebuild before I run over 8 psi of boost. After my turbos setup the next project is replacing the transmission with a manual that way i can have the thing survive for longer then a month.

I am ultimate just trying to find ways to skip a step without having to go all the way. I would prefer to limit the amount that I have to buy now and find myself having to resell later due to an upgrade. Examples the 12:1 fmu, the synapse map bypass, things like that plus...... not that im going to do this...... but what kind of volume do you need to have to have a second fuel pump feeding the system? By the way, theres no way I will ever take my car that far....

that missing link is like 50 bucks and the fmu is like 80, and they both are extremely salable. they definately have a salvage value. it would be crappy to have a turbo car that is slower than what you got now, like barely even moves slower. once you put a turbo in your car you are going to be so much more knowledgable about the whole thing. you would definately have no trouble finding a few people that would want to buy your used syanpse and your fmu if you decide not to use them anymore.

Yeah marbro, get those 2 things now as you will need them for a little while. As soon as you go ems, you won't, but untill then, your car won't run great at all. If the MAP senses boost, your car will go into limp mode and will run horribly. And without the fmu, your motor will starve for fuel like mine did. Plus, like light said, these parts are always in demand from someone, and if you buy them used on ebay or something, you'll probably be able to get what you paid for them.

Yeah, I already found out what happens when the map sensor isnt setup right. When i upgraded my throttle body the oring for stock was half the size of what it needed to be, and the seal on the map didnt exist.... needless to say that was an interesting problem, and didnt find out that the oring was the problem until i put back on the intake pipe........ not really much difference in sound when you cant hear a certain area. But by no means am i saying hey, lets go ahead and screw those parts, just trying to find out if i can skip some steps and goto a better part, mind you, pre 1500$ ems system lol

This might be a DUMB question.... But do you need one of those missing link MAP sensor things if you have a Greddy E-Manage (blue original one)....

Personally, if I were you I get a wideband O2, the gm map sensor, Walbro 255, some 550cc injectors, and Hondata. Piggybacks are a joke, if you're serious about a turbo you'll go standalone. It's really too bad your car is OBDII, otherwise you could save a lot of $$$ by chipping it yourself.

lol this is an old thread ^_^  
sublime96 - the purpose of the missing link is to maintain a stock stock 1 bar map on a stock ecu....   it basially prevents the code being thrown cause the map sensor and ecu cant understand the boost pressure thats being created....  but to answer youre question im not sure....  it looks like in order to deal with boost emanage needs the "ultimate pressure sensor"

Haha, wow this is old. I didn't even notice...

Yeah its an old thread... I had to do a search on this Missing Link MAP thingy...
I think Ive been converted to OBD1...
I bought the Emanage like 5+years ago... Not plannin on bying no stand alone...My dumpin money days are over.... But I have recently let go of my other daily drivers... SO, now im just trying to get this thing as reliable/drivable as possible!
Guess Ill just buy that Missing Link to see what if any difference is made.

well what will really decide it for you,   do you have an engine code being thrown complaining about map sensor pressure and does your car bog down?  if it doesnt you dont need it     and if your car is pre 98 you most likely can socket and rechip your ecu which means you dont have to use the stock map sensor and you dont have to use the bypass

what do you mean by socket and rechip?  My engine light has Never Turned off since I put boost in it like 5-6 years ago.... Bogging...? Yeah my car probably does that too....
For for the Dumbness... Im probably the Least mechanically inclined person on this Forum...

Meaning if your car is pre-1998 aka OBDI you can buy an ECU, socket it with a 28 pin ZIF socket, and use an EEPROM chip to run the car instead of the stock program its using now.