Turbo Help!!! - Page 4

I might be cooking some hoses, but it seems to only last a short while, right after boosting. I know there is a lot more heat under the hood now and I need to address this. I want to heat wrap everything, and I am also considering venting the hood somehow (maybe buy a vented hood?). The oil feed and return lines are hooked up the way they're supposed to, I think. I haven't been leaking oil from them (at least I don't think so).

At first I thought i was smelling crankcase vapors or something from the boost blowing by the pistons, but I raced a 2004 mustang GT yesterday and things weren't too pretty for him heh heh. And as soon as i learn how to launch the car without tire spin all out through first, things will be really bad ass.

you shouldnt be blowing anything by the rings.....they are actually quite good. they are not the weak point on your system and would probably handle 25 psi. if your oil return line is not a perfectly straight downward path to the oil pan, then oil will build up in the turbo and will spit out the seals...this mixed will all the raw fuel running through the system when you roll on the throttle will cause a smell that i would somewhat relate to what your smelling, and it would only happen after some hard boost..


hows it running now? is it still dying at wot? and hows the transition from vacuum to boost?

it's not a perfectly straight path to the pan. It is generally a straight shot down, but the pipe hose has a slight curve in it since I kept it on the longer side. Hmm, I guess that could be it. Marbro also brought up that it might be the raw exhaust gases from my wastegate opening and venting under my hood.

Other than that smell, things are running fine. Transistions are excellent and WOT is AWESOME. As I said, my friend's poor V8 mustang yesterday ate some dirt of mine.

Any video yet? I want to see it move... Help us live the dream through you! *L*

yea i definately like marbros idea, because that exhaust is exiting right out in the engine compartment

definately wrap that pipe that is coming out of the turbo, because it is right in front of the wastegate. so its running good huh?? alright ......let me know what settings you have the msd at right now as far as when it starts to retard the timing, and by how much per pound of boost.

yeai bet that burnt tire smell is that pipe getting so hot and that rubber boot next to the turbo giving off that smell. you dont want the oil return line to be on the long side though. you should shorten it so its the perfect length. hey and your a good welder.....you should weld a pipe that runs off the wastegate, and cut a nice little clean hole in the side of your side fender and have it exit flush with that...that would seriously be sick.

hahah that would be sick. The funny part is I thought about doing that exact thing. When the wastegate opens up, just have it scream out of that hole. haha. Right now I just have a short dump tube going down, but I'm thinking I should do something like that now.

I'll shorten that oil line though. Maybe that will help things.

If you have those ignition tips you mentioned lightshow, I'm all ears!

yep it deals with your msd ignition. what are the current settings on that. like when it starts to retard the timing and by how much per pound of boost or ATM or BAR

The start point is set to about 2.5 psi. Kinda a safety setting for trying things out I suppose. I have the fine tune knob (in car knob) around 1.5. I'm not sure if that second number is in psi... just the numbers on the control its self.

whats the range on the knob inside the car?

ok just got the specs. its 0-3 degrees per pound.. so i want you to start with making sure that the MSD vacuum line is the exact same source as the FMU is using. then set the dial on the unit under the hood at 3 degrees, and the dial inside at 0.5. start with this and you may still be able to throw on some more timing on top of this. your probably going to feel a startling difference...and you now have a lot of room to work with here so this is where the fine tuning will need to come in. you just dont want to have any detonation at all... when you get the boost controller, and you add on some more boost you may want to up the dial in the car to .75 or even one. now if you run higher octane fuel.....or get a better spark.....you can throw on more timing so just keep that in mind. let us know how it goes

also, that bomb that you toasted that mustang i bet he was feeling bad....this will help you lanch and corner alot better.


LSD

and it sounds like the motor is just about dialed in so some good injectors would be a good idea. the 450cc's would be perfect. but in general now as you go up in horsepower, you will want to use this formula


(horsepower * BSFC)/ (number of injectors * duty cycle)

the BSFC of an n/a engine is usually .5 and on a turbo engine it is .6 or greater.


so if the dial on your MSD inside the car is set at zero and your running 8 psi. your car had 140 hp stock and there is about 14 psi in one ATM or BAR. so for every PSI there is a 10 hp difference so with 8 psi you would have gained 80 hp (if the dial is set at zero). so you should be hovering around 220hp at the crank. so 220 * .6 is 132 and 4 injectors * 80 percent duty cycle or .8 is 3.2.....so your injectors should deliver 41.25 lb/hr and to change this to CC's just multiply by 10.5....so you would need at least 433 cc's.

that timing stuff is the exciting part...i hope your rippin right now.

Time for some injectors! Now with those large injectors, would the FMU still be required?

I'll dial in those settings this morning and drive to school (hopefully traffic won't be a bitch) and tell everyone how it goes when I get there.

And I got the boost controller yesterday. The instructions are as clear as mud. What I got out of them is that I basically just "splice" in the controller to the wastegate vacuum source. I thought I had to use the top port on the wastegate though.

That gave some more power. For the injectors (RC Engineering) high or low impedence. Love the extra kick!

yea im pretty sure that you actually have a resistor box on your car right now and your stock injectors are the 'peak and hold' type which are low impedance. you can, however, run high or low impedence injectors...but as i know it....the low impedence injectors work better for turbo cars, and yes you will want to keep your fmu...when you put in the s200 you wont need to fmu any longer.

so if you run low imp, you need to have the resistor box (which your car may already have)
if you run high imp...you do not need a resistor box ( and if your car has it...it will need to be removed)

you should plug in the boost controller exactly how the instructions say.

im not sure if you should turn up the boost anymore until you get those injectors though......your probably over the 80 percent duty cycle on your stock injectors, and i know at a certain point they may start to cut flow. and heres a list of injectors that you can use just in case you dont have the 3 or 4 hundred bucks for rc's and ill pull out my digi and take a pic of my resistor box in my accord so you know what to look for.



89-94 DSM 5-speed ~ 450cc, Blue tops, low imp
89-94 DSM Auto ~ 390cc, low imp
95+ DSM injectors ~ 450cc black tops, high imp.
84-85 RX7 GSL-SE 680cc, low impedence but only 2 per engine tho.
86-92 RX7 non-turbo 460cc(4 count), low or high impedence depenging on year.
86~92 RX7 Turbo 2 550cc(4 count), low or high imp.

That would be great if you could take a picture of that for me, so I know what to look for. Thanks man!

got those pics ill send them to you.

hey whats your email? i dont want to send any 200kb pics these are like 1.5 mb

Well, so beings the stage of my turbo lx ^_^ I have a t3/04e coming in. I figured 265 bucks is worth it. Can i claim that its greddy or turbonetics no, but everything shows that its true to form.

3" INLET DIAMETER
2" OUTLET
WET FLOATING BEARINGS
1/8 NPT OIL INLET
T3 / T4 FLANGE

SPECS:
. 50 A/R COMPRESSOR
.63 A/R TURBINE
.57 TRIM

TURBINE WHEEL:
EXDUCER: 2.48"
MAYOR : 2.89"
COMPRESSOR WHEEL :
EXDUCER: 2.07"
MAYOR : 2.36"

My only real concern....... will it fit...... lol I may need fabrication because either the exaust pipe will bump into the alternator or the front motor mount on my car. But in the end it all depends on the design of the turbo manifold. But yeah log style with the flange facing the front of the car vs toward the bottom of the car..... im trying to get an image of that. Then i have to deal with the power steering resivoir being in the way of the tubing. I still need to take pictures of my car though lol maybe i am just seeing the turbo as larger then it actually is..... like a t6 size... yup i have a lot to consider

yes you do its all about the placement, so that flange that hooks the turbo up to the manifold is critical. the turbo is actually pretty small but it will take up just about all the space in between the block and the radiator

*nods* i figured that much, when i get the turbo in i will be setting roughly where it should be mounted on the manifold to find if i will have trouble with the 3 inch exaust pipe im not all that concerned about the charge piping because that can be cut to fit