Turbo Help!!! - Page 5

When I got my turbo in the mail, I said to myself "how the heck is this gonna fit??". With the log style manifold with the flange that faces the front of the car, I didn't have much trouble with it. Of course, A/C got kicked out, but it was worth it for me. I did have to take some plastic off the passenger side cooling fan though to get the turbo to fit. I didn't have to mess with the motor mount at all. My downpipe looked like it was going to clip my alternator, but it has a good amount of clearence (it helps to take the electrical connector off the alternator when fitting the d-pipe). I was surprised how it all just kind of fell into place, and as soon as you get more pieces and see how things will fit, you'll have a better idea of what will need to be done, and it may be less than you think.

There won't be a whole lot of room to work with things, but that turbo should fit nicely in there... almost like it should have been there the whole time.

mbo thats awesome that you have that same muffler.....i just put one on my gf's little sentra and it even sounds good on there.

which injectors are you gonna get?

I really want to go with the RC's since I'd like to get some brand new ones, but they're pricey. This coming week is payday, so I might just go for them...

I'm 90% sure I'll invest in the RC's 440 cc low impedence injectors. Otherwise, I'll get some DSM's.

Youll just want to keep in mind the fuel map will have to be adjusted because you dont want 440cc injectors running at full during preboost. I will enjoy the day when i need a larger fuel rail and new injectors ^_^

yeah, my friend has a SFAC 2 he'll give me for cheap, maybe I'll tune things down with that...

the injectors are still controlled by the computor..........they wont run at full when the car is idling. the o2 will still monitor how rich or lean the mixture is, if the mixture is too rich, the computor will reduce the pulse width to the injector. when the boost rolls on, the computer will increase the pulse width, and this combined with the rising rate fuel pressure will make the A/f correct under boost. marbro.....with your car right now with the stock injectors, they dont run at full when your at idle. as you hit the gas, the computer realizes that if it doesnt do something, the engine will start to run very lean. so it fattens the pulse to increase the delivery of fuel, when you take your foot off the gas the pulse is reduced or the motor would run rich.

In order to control the flow of fuel of the larger injectors, you'll need some form of a fuel management system. The factory system simply cannot control the changes that are going to be made beyond the factory specs. Thats why people redo the ecu of earlier obd's. Cause if you could just upgrade everything and not worry about the computer no one would change or chip them. Thats why stand alone fuel management exists and if mbo is going to take the turbo up higher then 10psi hes going to have to change the injectors again to 550cc or higher and heaven forbid he would goto over 25psi, running a second fuel line and pump sucks. ^_^ But yeah, the computer only accounts for so much

well i was just talking about 10 right now. if he goes over that i would recommend him closing the deck. no need to add things that arnt needed right now. the 450's will work perfectly with his stock ecu. the computer doesnt have a set parameter. it takes signals from different sensors and makes its own set of outputs. even right now, the pulse width is wayyyy larger now with the turbo than when he had it stock. that is way out of the normal parameters of the stock engine, but it is working great right now because the computer knows what it needs to do to keep the a/f correct. with the correct size injectors, the computer will actually feel more at home because the signals will actually be closer to what they were stock. lets just put a number on it lets say the pulse is 2 milliseconds stock, and now under boost with the stock injectors, it had to be increased to 4. well with the correct sized injectors it will probably be closer to 2 again. but you are absolutely right, if he does go over 10, then he will need a bunch of heavy duty engine management systems to keep the engine running well, and possibly even water injection. im just trying to help him out a little step by step. he has a hondata, which in sure that hell use later on down the line. i dont want mbo to think that anything else has to be done to run larger injectors because thats already a pretty big step. mbo all you need is

those wiring connectors, because you stock ones dont fit. you can use DSM ones like were in that link earlier or you can by them from RC.

fuel rail. a new aem one or one from RC is perfect....also a dsm rail will fit perfectly too

and then the injectors.

this setup will support 10psi, and you car will run better. for me though, 10 psi would be plenty. shit if im taking on z28's and shit, thats just impressive. mbo if you go to the strip they might tell you that you can even come back until you have a roll cage and kill switches for all kinds of stuff cause i think at like 13.99 or 12.99 they require a cage here in az.

So if I need new connectors, I'll probably go for the DSMs. 10 psi will be plenty of pop for me for a long time.

How do you estimate HP output based on boost? Any ideas what you may be running at now? I noticed an earlier post that suggested like 225 is that correct??

great question....and its rediculously simple. its based on atmospheric pressure. there is natually 14.7 psi of pressure on everything on the planet at all times, including the combustion chamber of your motor. so its directly related to the hp of your motor in stock form. so if you add any boost just add it to the 14.7 already in the system. so if you have a 8psi turbo system the new number you will use for the equation will be 22.7 ....so if your motor has 140 hp stock


(14.7/ 140) = (22.7/ X)


so 140 * 22.7 = 3178

3178/14.7 = 216.19 hp

now this is an estimate, true hp can only be told on the dyno, but even then almost every dyno will show a little different number. and if you retard the timing with the MSD it will lower hp, but increase gas mileage

Thanks for the response that's exactly what I wanted to know.... Now, that being said. Do you by chance (or anyone for that matter) know approximate weight/HP ratios and 1/4 mile times or 0-60 times? Basically how much HP would I need to drop to say a 12 second 1/4 mile for my car's weight... I know there are a TON of other factors in this but are there any estimates or general rules?

you know i cant remember, it is in one of my hod rod magazines though. if i happen to be taking a shit, and see it again, i will definately post it though.

ok youre going to need over 500 whp to hit the 12's most likely 600whp. Theres a 2 door accord with 689 whp and it only got 10.86@136.3mph in the 1/4. So yeah, a lot of engine work and a big turbo.


lightshow, is that equation in consideration of crank or wheel?
Either way i cant run the setup i want on my stock trany lol and this is less then 2000 dollars for the setup....

ha mbo i just put your numbers into the calculator that was posted elsewhere. with 220 hp and i looked up the weight on a 94-97 accord it said 2855, and your tires are 19.61 inches tall and the 1/4 came out to 13.06 at 99 mph. so if that weight is right and the calculator is right then thats about what you would run

I think 13 is a bit overestimated you really shouldnt go based on actual calcuators because im pretty sure thats ideal in the end. Thats the downside to calculations they never consider reality in most of them ^_^

well with that other formula, it depicts crank hp. and if that 1/4 mile formula is correct, there is plenty of fact. when you go to drag in limited classes they use a simple formula to figure out how much hp you have. they weigh your car before you hit the strip and if you blow the doors off something, they know you have too much hp and you get disqualified. there is plenty of accurate fact in power weight ratios. and i seriously would almost bet money that mbo would run a 13 - 13.5 with a lsd and a set of nitto 555r's

I can't wait till I turn it up to 10 psi! a 13.5 1/4 mile would rock. Any ideas on what a 10 psi 1/4 mile would calculate out to?

I'm heading down to the local drag strip for some fun real soon.

i think it was sir nasty that posted the formula. ill find it and plug the numbers in though

it says a 12.73....yea mbo i think you might get banned from the strip if your running 10psi you might want to turn it down a little when you go there ...lol

yeah, i am curious to find out what you clock at, all i know is mbo, you suck cause your car weights 400 pounds less then mine lol

ummm i thought the point of going to the strip was to see how fast your car can go? ^_^

but yeah, based on your math calc for horse power, at 8 psi i would have just under 250hp at the crank..... which worries me cause an auto trany cant handle that in the end lol

What did you do to remove 400 lbs?? I've been looking for crap to take out myself, just really haven't found anything worth removing. Thought about the back seat and realized that it was a foam insert, so I said forget that and kept it.

I don't have a/c, but adding the turbo brought that weight back and more.

I'd be so happy with a 12.73 time.

hehe, i didnt do anything, i was going based on the weight lightshow went on, said that your year was suppose to be 2800ish pounds, my car weights over 3200. The only way to lose the weight fiberglass hood (those are awesome, weigh like... 25 pounds expensive tho), remove everything out of the trunk and the backseat ( about what 35 pounds there? maybe 50), if you want to go the insane route, you can do fiberglass doors which will drop your cars weight over 200 pounds (considering what your willing to lose from the doors and also very expensive) so yeah, save time.... get a viper, everythings already fiberglass lol

Oh yeah, I read your first post entirely wrong. haha my car weighs less. Yeah, I know i can do the whole body panel thing. I was thinking of remocing the heater core and the other A/C crap that's still in there (don't need it in florida!), but I don't know if it's worth the trouble.