Yellow Top Battery - Page 2

wow this thread is growing. when i said strain the alt I was refering to him running 2 bats off factory alt, if he decided to run with both stock and a yellow top 

the 0 awg was in reference to grounding, not powering,   SPL competition does not mean street beat  spl isnt run for 30+ minutes at a time,  actually...... how many people do you know street beating 25kwatts?

Thanks for all the info guys!  This thing grew quite popular quickly!

Basically, I have a a little bit of tach bounce but not much, and thats with the bass quite high.  I need a new battery soon anyways, so maybe Ill upgrade the wires and stuff too.  I already have a 1 farad cap.
Are there any other batteries near the Optimas performance for cheap?

I didn't know suggesting the big 3 would cause such a controversy!  One reason I suggested it is because you can do it yourself for around $25.
I hope you find what you are looking for!!

quote:

ORIGINAL: marbro

you dont even need 0awg wire for grounding those out,   grounding like that is in consideration of over 300amps which nothing in the car will have that much current running through it that would need that kind of grounding,   thats just one of those over kill things that make people go, "dude look at that"    
and i never said it was going to toast your alternator   
and by saying theres no fact its like saying caps have no use in electronics,  there is more then enough fact behind what its suppose to be used for, their purpose was kinda defined a while ago    

no, you may not NEED 0awg, but what if u plan to upgrade later?  redo big 3?  why not just keep it at 0awg, its easier and not that much more expensive.  not everything is for show.  and 300amps isnt far fetched at all when your talking about car audio
 
caps serve a purpose, yes, but theres just the question if they do more harm than good.  no, theyre not gonna destroy your car or anything.  but its more work for the alt to do b/c what?  you dont like some dimming?  i personally would rather just do big3 and HO alt.  a cap is just gonna help with 1 or 2 large current draws.  if your system is slamming while your sitting at a light, your lights will dim no matter how many caps you have.  caps arent bats, they immediately release the charge stored in them

guess i shoudlnt have opened my mouth about caps    i mean im just a senior lever physics/engineering student who just completed an electrodynamics class and has a fetish for car audio, so what would i know about caps?

if the audio system draws more power then a cap has a chance to recharge yeah, lights are going to dim,   its just a more functional reserve then a battery even tho depending on the battery a cap wont last as long.   And technically you dont need to do the big 3,  you just need to do the alternator.   and upgrading your audio system to the point where you have 300amps of potential ground current running through the trans/engine then you kinda need to reconsider how youre wiring your whole system.      as for a 300 amp alternator? you arent going to have that in the stock location anyways so depending on how its installed it wont be grounding through your engine anyways.

but either way unless you plan on running http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Hifonics_XX_Maxximus/ i doubt you will really be making use of that 0 awg off the big 3

quote:

ORIGINAL: marbro

the 0 awg was in reference to grounding, not powering,

 
Same principle bro - you can lose voltage thru the ground wire just as easily as the power wire.
 

quote:

  SPL competition does not mean street beat spl isnt run for 30+ minutes at a time,  actually...... how many people do you know street beating 25kwatts?

 
Actually all 4 SPL competition orgs have a format that is a 30 second average.  So the competitor pulls up to the mike and blasts for 30 seconds straight at full power and his score is his average db over the 30 seconds.  Granted thats not 30 minutes, but to keep 25,000+ watts churning at full power for 30 seconds aint no small feat.
 
And while your average guy wont be rolling with 25K watts, that doesnt mean you cant learn from them.  In fact the guy that can keep 25,000 watts fed is precicely the guy I want to learn from to keep my measly 1000 watts running. 

Yes, this is true on both parts, but theres not much of any resistance on a foot of ground wire and many would be hard pressed to have an issue with 4awg ofc as ground wire at that length,    and i would love to learn more from a person whos pulling high numbers and only using 1000 watts ^_-

but yeah,  i have a friend who ran a comp sub that could handle a 10kw burp....   he street beat it with a a2200hct running at .5ohm     yeah, needless to say the sub was obliterated after about 2 weeks.....   the spider was torn, the coil was fused, and that was only part of the destruction, but hey, at least during the time it was running it was hitting between 130 and 140 db........  it hurt a little being in his car......

The loudest Ive been around so far is a 170 db burp.  It was a weird feeling.  Even tho I was 5 ft outside the vehicle, I could feel the vibration thru the ground and inside my body.  Very weird! 
 
The world record is 180.3 I believe.  Yikes!  That would kill you instantly if your were inside the car!!  Its Scott Owens in an F250 Super Duty running Pioneer SPL subs and about 100,000 watts!!!!!

quote:

ORIGINAL: MacLeod

The loudest Ive been around so far is a 170 db burp.  It was a weird feeling.  Even tho I was 5 ft outside the vehicle, I could feel the vibration thru the ground and inside my body.  Very weird! 

 
do you know the setup?

No.  I didnt get a chance to check it out.  It was my first major event - Carl Casper Nationals February last year- which was held alongside the largest car show in the country up in Lousiville, KY.  There were tons of things going on. 

I did have a buddy that competed in USACi who routinely hit in the mid 160's using 4 MTX 12's and powered by 5000 watts of Rockford Fosgate.  Listened to Dave Mathews thru it one day.  Was awesome!  Even with the amp gain all the way down, the sub fader all the way down and the bass on the CD player all the way down, the kick drum would still punch a hole in your chest!
  

I had a chance to listen to a system that was running 5 orion 12's and it rattled a hanger bay

there is a show in sc next month, http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=245789   and a show in ga 21st of this month. also  macleod are you a member of CA.com/forums?

I went to a lowrider show here in miami last year, there was a tahoe with four 18 " kicker solo Xs and god knows how much power. The bass was so strong when I walked up to it with a video camera, the video went out on the recording. It was defiantly the loudest thing I have EVER heard.

quote:

ORIGINAL: marbro

if the audio system draws more power then a cap has a chance to recharge yeah, lights are going to dim,   its just a more functional reserve then a battery even tho depending on the battery a cap wont last as long.   And technically you dont need to do the big 3,  you just need to do the alternator.   and upgrading your audio system to the point where you have 300amps of potential ground current running through the trans/engine then you kinda need to reconsider how youre wiring your whole system.      as for a 300 amp alternator? you arent going to have that in the stock location anyways so depending on how its installed it wont be grounding through your engine anyways.

but either way unless you plan on running http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Hifonics_XX_Maxximus/ i doubt you will really be making use of that 0 awg off the big 3

a high output alt is only gonna do so much unless you upgrade the big 3.  and i dont know why you say a 300 amp alt wont fit in stock location.  are you refering to your accord?  cause it fits in my blzer no problem.  btw, i like your link to that maxximus.  even that overrated piece of crap prolly needs a couple runs of 0awg.  my merlin md2 needs 1 run of 0awg alone

quote:

ORIGINAL: tru_44

there is a show in sc next month, http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=245789   and a show in ga 21st of this month. also  macleod are you a member of CA.com/forums?

 
Thats Elite Summer Nationals.  Its one of the largest shows of the year.  I will be at that one for MECA SQ.
 
There is also a big show in Nashville this Sunday that Ill be going to.  $500, $300 and $200 prizes for first 3 highest scores.  I guarantee you none of them will be me but the money will bring out the big dawgs and its always fun competing against them and seeing how I stack up next to them.
 
I dont post on caraudio.com. I browsed there a couple times and seemed like everybody only wanted to fight and argue.  I post regularly on the Polk Audio forum and Carsound.com.  The Polk forum is a pretty basic forum where Carsound is more advanced.  It used to be frequented by major industry gurus and big wigs and the forum archives are a wealth of knowledge.  Elitecaraudio.com is also a great forum.  Very advanced.  I dont post over there but it is a superb resource.

quote:

ORIGINAL: Fat Ryan
a high output alt is only gonna do so much unless you upgrade the big 3.  and i dont know why you say a 300 amp alt wont fit in stock location.  are you refering to your accord?  cause it fits in my blzer no problem.  btw, i like your link to that maxximus.  even that overrated piece of crap prolly needs a couple runs of 0awg.  my merlin md2 needs 1 run of 0awg alone

dont care about your blazer, this was all in reference to an accord,  odd thing being an accord forum and all, and once again, the main one you need to ground is the alternator cause ultimately thats the only one of the 3 that doesnt have an existing ground beyond the connection to the engine

but yeah, you kinda need 0awg for any high current amp  thats over 1200 watts, at least if the batterys not sitting next to the amp of course, but then you leave the recharge to a 0awg connection lol

quote:

ORIGINAL: marbro

quote:

ORIGINAL: Fat Ryan
a high output alt is only gonna do so much unless you upgrade the big 3.  and i dont know why you say a 300 amp alt wont fit in stock location.  are you refering to your accord?  cause it fits in my blzer no problem.  btw, i like your link to that maxximus.  even that overrated piece of crap prolly needs a couple runs of 0awg.  my merlin md2 needs 1 run of 0awg alone

dont care about your blazer, this was all in reference to an accord,  odd thing being an accord forum and all, and once again, the main one you need to ground is the alternator cause ultimately thats the only one of the 3 that doesnt have an existing ground beyond the connection to the engine

but yeah, you kinda need 0awg for any high current amp  thats over 1200 watts, at least if the batterys not sitting next to the amp of course, but then you leave the recharge to a 0awg connection lol

well you never specified, so your bad.  and either way, a 300 amp alt is nothing to be bowing down to.  my farts produce more power than 1200watts.  if 1200watts is all your talking about, then do the big 3 and leave it at that.  i thought we were talking about real power here.  and maybe im just not understanding your point of view here, but it plain and simple...bigger wire = less resistance.  there is no down side to that.  unless you consider spending an extra $10 on wire a big deal.  id much rather spend a little more on wire than have to worry about it later.
 
btw, the ground from the alt to the block is most likely the best ground youll ever have in your accord.  all you gotta worry about it the block to the chassis.

not really my bad,  you assumed and i didnt really care that you assumed.   its all about getting other people to rant and rave more,   oh, and dont forget changing the premise of comments in the middle of it.   but any way you look at it this thread was started by someone most likely having a system in an accord, and theres no room in an for a 10kw system and even with a 2kw system you have to make sacrifices to have it fit the trunk   and 1kw is real power, its just in spl if you want to set records you it wont be enough no matter what enclosure you have,   but you can still manage 150db off a properly designed sub/case.    and yeah, bigger wire in most cases does mean less resistance but like i said before unless youre running a system that justifies it you wont ever need more the 4awg, but im glad to see youre prepared to run competition spl.        

but sorry to hear that you farts produce more then 1200w's....  you must have bleeding ulcers but im sure thats not the only problem you have ^_-

I didnt know a battery question could cause 3 pages of comemnts! lol
 
I may do the big three, and see how that goes.  Then maybe a yellow top.

if youre current battery is on its last leg, thats also a good excuse to get one

quote:

ORIGINAL: marbro

not really my bad,  you assumed and i didnt really care that you assumed.   its all about getting other people to rant and rave more,   oh, and dont forget changing the premise of comments in the middle of it.   but any way you look at it this thread was started by someone most likely having a system in an accord, and theres no room in an for a 10kw system and even with a 2kw system you have to make sacrifices to have it fit the trunk   and 1kw is real power, its just in spl if you want to set records you it wont be enough no matter what enclosure you have,   but you can still manage 150db off a properly designed sub/case.    and yeah, bigger wire in most cases does mean less resistance but like i said before unless youre running a system that justifies it you wont ever need more the 4awg, but im glad to see youre prepared to run competition spl.        

but sorry to hear that you farts produce more then 1200w's....  you must have bleeding ulcers but im sure thats not the only problem you have ^_-

well i dont see why i couldnt fit a large alt in my accord, and i got a v6.  my 260amp alt is just a tiny bit bigger than stock.
 
saying a 10kw system wont fit in an accord is just ignorant.  just b/c a system is 10kw, doesnt mean it needs to take up an entire astro van.  you know, there are very powerful subs out there that are very efficient in small enclosures, right?  more likely than not, with 10kw you wont have any trunk space, but thats not to say 10kw system=impossible.  im running 2600watts, and when i complete my box it will only take up about half my trunk if that.  and im talking about 5-6 cubes here.
 
you are right about high sound pressure levels being hard to achieve in a trunk.  i never said that wasnt true, nor did i say im even trying for that, let alone competing.  hell, i dont even know how we got on this subject.  point is, there is no downside to doig the big 3 and doing it in 0awg, unless you consider spending a couple extra bucks a downside.  i really dont get why you think you have to be a pro or something to be using 0awg.  i know not everyone is pushing 1500+watts, but still why not do it?  i dont show off my "0awg big 3".  i dont even know why anyone would give 2 shits about the size of your wire, thats just stupid.
 
original poster just needs to do the big 3.  its the most econimically feasible solution for the problem.  if hes filthy rich, then do it all up, but the big 3 (in whatever gauge wire you chose) should be the first thing tried.

its not ignorant to say a 10kw system wont it and im saying subs and amps, cause think about it, you can have all small enclosures but when it defeats the purpose of having that kind of system to being with assuming it would be running at that level, so really unless you can show me a 10kw system that fits in the trunk, the alternative takes up a bit more then just the trunk.  Besides, you can have a small encloser but i dont know of any subs off hand that are amazing in a minimalists enclosure either.
   I know for i4 accord alternators doesnt go much higher then 180amp for the stock location because no one makes a larger housing for the stock location,   that may not be true for the v6 models,  i dont really know, but my searches havent shown high output alternators that break the 200 amp range for any accord.  When i was trying to get a higher amp alternator for my car i tried to use the stock housing and they said they couldnt do over 120amps with it....  and all i could think to myself was bs.    At least i found my 180 amp one
As for caring about wiresizes being stupid,  yeah, i have seen plenty of forums showing off their big 3 wiring and people going, omg that looks so cool!    but those are the same people that want turbo wistlers and the bov sound without actually having a turbo.  If you want i can reference many bottom feeders that think their car is the best thing on the street just cause they put ground effects and a cheap body kit on their civic.    I can probably get pictures for you too.

marbro:  I really hate to agree with Fat Ryan, but if you look at this, you'll see one of the highest rated subs pushing 2700W taking up 1.3 cu.ft.  Three of them plus a 1900W mid/high amp hits the 10k mark.

http://www.sunfire.com/TrueSubwooferEQSigPR.htm