*98-02 CHEAP* LED CONVERSION [cluster, clock, dome, maps, door, plate]
#13
12-21-2010, 02:44 PM
when ordering LED's on ebay from China the shipping usually takes two weeks.
when installing LED's in place of bulbs you need a "drop resistor" - basically a 1/4 watt resistor that controls current through the LED. 470 ohms is typical for 12V but that value can vary based on the voltage drop of the LED and the current rating.
you'll need a soldering iron to do a raw LED swap, but it is pretty easy.
when working with LED's be careful of the leads - too much physical stress will cause the LED to fail. also note that LED's have polarity, so they only work one way.
you can cheaply remove the bulbs from your interior dash and replace the incandescant bulbs with LED's and a resistor for very little money, with a bit of effort.
the courtesy bulbs can be easily swapped out with LED replacements for a direct fit, or you can solder in your own.
an LED conversion is on my to-do list and will be well detailed on this forum with pics of the entire process. my goal was for RGB LED replacements with a custom controller. we'll see if i have the spare time...
this is a great topic and thanks to the OP for sharing.
when installing LED's in place of bulbs you need a "drop resistor" - basically a 1/4 watt resistor that controls current through the LED. 470 ohms is typical for 12V but that value can vary based on the voltage drop of the LED and the current rating.
you'll need a soldering iron to do a raw LED swap, but it is pretty easy.
when working with LED's be careful of the leads - too much physical stress will cause the LED to fail. also note that LED's have polarity, so they only work one way.
you can cheaply remove the bulbs from your interior dash and replace the incandescant bulbs with LED's and a resistor for very little money, with a bit of effort.
the courtesy bulbs can be easily swapped out with LED replacements for a direct fit, or you can solder in your own.
an LED conversion is on my to-do list and will be well detailed on this forum with pics of the entire process. my goal was for RGB LED replacements with a custom controller. we'll see if i have the spare time...
this is a great topic and thanks to the OP for sharing.
no resister required here for any of these gague cluster LED mods. just got the ones of ebay (as stated above what to look for) and they worked fine. Shipping took about 25 business days so just call it a month. Most of the main lights in the back of the gauge cluster ARE the T10s that go into the courtesy light and map lights. Worked fine for me at least...
Last edited by 98accordman; 12-21-2010 at 02:48 PM.
#14
12-21-2010, 02:45 PM
question for 98accordman: the pics that you posted are of the "white lights" or the "blue lights"? they look blue to me but your post says they are white in the picture and you will make them blue later.
and can you post a picture of the white lights installed? and a picture of the clock?
thnks and keep up the good work
and can you post a picture of the white lights installed? and a picture of the clock?
thnks and keep up the good work
#15
01-03-2011, 12:13 AM
the lights on the back of the gauge cluster or t10's? I did not know that...I'm considering swapping them out right once it gets warmer. thanks for the tip 
#16
01-10-2011, 10:47 PM
A little confused..
Hey everyone, I registered just for this post haha (I just got my accord two months ago)
For the turn signal lights, I would like them to be blue, but im scared that the lens itself is tinted green, so with a blue led it would just be a weird tealish color. am i correct, or would they be blue with blue LEDs?
TIA
For the turn signal lights, I would like them to be blue, but im scared that the lens itself is tinted green, so with a blue led it would just be a weird tealish color. am i correct, or would they be blue with blue LEDs?
TIA
#17
01-15-2011, 03:49 PM
hey ok so i put all the bulbs in...half of them don't work greattttttttt and i can't get them out...are they polar sensitve? would i have to switch them or are they bad?
edit: nvm it was something with the polarity. I just ripped them out and flipped them and it worked
edit: nvm it was something with the polarity. I just ripped them out and flipped them and it worked
Last edited by vipjdm-Justin; 01-15-2011 at 04:50 PM.
#18
01-16-2011, 01:46 AM
hey ok so i put all the bulbs in...half of them don't work greattttttttt and i can't get them out...are they polar sensitve? would i have to switch them or are they bad?
edit: nvm it was something with the polarity. I just ripped them out and flipped them and it worked
edit: nvm it was something with the polarity. I just ripped them out and flipped them and it worked
For the turn signals, were the factory bulbs white or green?
Thanks!
#19
01-16-2011, 11:35 AM
becareful with the polarity tho..i swapped all the lights then put everything back together only to realize half of them dont work haha...and i also broke off the clips on my cluster frame. no idea how to get it off without breaking them lol oh well tho
edit: i just read your other post...and to clarify your question yes they do have a green cover. IDK how it'd look with a blue bulb behind it..but i had a green led behind the "high beam" and it looked kinda funky
#20
01-16-2011, 02:51 PM
also after looking more into it...i figured out that the temp. control bulbs are 3x T5 (wedge bulbs); 3x T4 (wedge bulbs); and 1 T3 (wedge bulb) for the temperature screen.
