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2013 Honda Accord sport:1000 watt sound system HELP

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  #11  
Old 01-11-2016, 01:41 PM
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Seen some of your vids man! you take the time to get it right as an install can be much more important than the equipment at times. I have utmost respect to your attention to detail. Getting the subs dropped in as we speak. Ended up going with the lc2 only thing I'm weary about is having the guy install it in the rear of the car with the amp as I'd like to have it up front. Could be hard to get to. I'll let ya know how 1100w into 2 12s in the trunk sounds sounds at the driver seat by tomorrow! Rip my alternator >;D
 
  #12  
Old 01-11-2016, 08:20 PM
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our alternators are regulated and controlled by the PCM. they are plenty stout.
 
  #13  
Old 01-11-2016, 08:24 PM
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you can compensate for the low rear output with higher gain in the LC2i.

enjoy and be sure to share the results.

thanks for the complements, the builds and videos are meant to inspire.
 
  #14  
Old 01-12-2016, 11:33 AM
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Update: got everything in the car and hooked up. Trying to keep the bass at a level where the lights don't dim is hard lol. Still playing with some settings. I was running 14.4 v at the amp before but all today I'm getting 11-12 even when not pushing the subs hard. Any ideas why this could be? Also the guy I had help me tapped into the rear speaker wire for the subs. Is this ok? There are certain songs I can't get to sound right and I'm thinking this may have something to do with it
FOR ANYONE CONSIDERING A SIMILAR SETUP IN THIER ACCORD: there are so many pieces in the rear deck assembly that sound crazy when the bass hits a certain frequency, consider this when choosing the size and power of your setup. If I keep it like this I'll have to shove dynamat everywhere in the rear deck and trunk to stop the terrible sounding vibrations. When it hits certain frequencies it's very distracting. . .
 

Last edited by Treynelson1; 01-12-2016 at 01:25 PM. Reason: Added info about vibrations and the rear deck area
  #15  
Old 01-12-2016, 12:30 PM
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Did he tap both left and right? because you need both and the amp will sum them together.

try turning the lights on when you see the low voltage and it should climb back up.

i regulate 12.3-12.5 with music and the lights off (alt saving fuel), but i also have a 500F ultracap bank.
 
  #16  
Old 01-13-2016, 08:33 AM
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Seems he just tapped the driver side speaker. should I go back and have him tap the other wire as well? I still feel like it's skipping notes in songs I know really well. On the positive side. I think I found a nice balance with the subs and stock system and it doesn't seem to be effecting the other electricals audio control unit is great by the way. What you said about the voltage seems accurate as well, nothing is mounted right now. Still considering selling all or part of the equipment and replacing some parts. I'll give it about a week as is to play with it and see how I like it before I get the custom box and start mounting stuff. Thanks for the support!!
 
  #17  
Old 01-13-2016, 10:51 PM
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just tap the other wire yourself, it's a fairly easy process back there.

get the stuff mounted to a board at least so they don't slide around. my build logs can give you ideas for mounting things.

if the installer didn't mount anything himself (as standard practice), don't go back there. if i see a car without stuff mounted, the vehicle doesn't leave my driveway/garage until that is remedied.
 
  #18  
Old 01-14-2016, 11:00 AM
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Ok I guess I can manage that. See I wish I could do this all myself as I view audio in general as a hobby but I don't have the time as a young guy trying to get ahead in his career of insurance and sales!! :c it's my fault it isn't mounted though. I have the rubber mat back there and it seems to stay in one place for the most part unless I start stomping pedals lol. I told him not to bother mounting since my plan for the car is not final and could completely change this week ok I'm noticing EXTREME dimming of the headlights at the volume I like, not too loud but audible and clear. If I put the gain up to 4v the dimming is better but the added bass is barely noticeable which is kinda nice for some songs but that's not why I have 2 12s lol I want to feel it a bit. I can live with the dimming as long as my electricals don't go to **** down the road. Any reccomendations? If I get some confidence about that issue I'll order the box and mounting equipment right then and there! i really don't wanna do big 3 on this car if I don't need too. Freaking 0 gauge is ridiculous around here. Most shops just have 100-120$ kits you gotta buy just to do it and another 30-60 for labor! Actually a lot of shops don't even know anything about REAL car audio because for years the only customers they have had to serve are people throwing $$ at them just saying "I want something loud in the trunk" -_- none of em like dealing with me is the vibe I get and the feeling is mutual. At least this guy puts up with my enthusiasm for music and audio in general lol. Will say though after this job not going to him again :/ couple things he said/did I didn't like. I'm a hard customer to please I guess....
EDIT:the gain on my amp is a digital readout with settings at .1 .2 .5 1 2.5 4 and 8v I believe idk what the numbers mean cause most amps are just ***** for gain but the higher number is lower gain.
 

Last edited by Treynelson1; 01-14-2016 at 11:03 AM.
  #19  
Old 01-16-2016, 11:39 PM
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amp gain is actually sensitivity and works like this:

the number on the dial/display is the voltage INTO the amp. higher voltage into the amp means you need lower gain to make power. this is why it appears to be inverse. but the point is to match the source output voltage to the amp input sensitivity (gain).

dimming happens with many cars due to fuel saving methods.

i sacrifice sleep to make audio systems happen. a few consecutive nights with 3 hours of sleep don't kill you, they make you appreciate beds.
 
  #20  
Old 01-18-2016, 09:04 AM
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Thanks. Ok bout to lock in the plan here. I know eventually I'll have to upgrade these stock speakers but aside from the sound deadening that needs to be done and how much the rear seat restricts sound from the trunk I'm happy. I'm using your current build log for ideas though moving forward and will keep you updated as I do more work. Pictures will come soon. I wish the stock hu had a variable Hpf I could play with

EDIT: would switching to 4 ohm resistance on the subs take a load off the electrical system or does it use the same power for less output at 4 ohm? Also trying to think of a way around the rear seat. Does removing the metal backing like in your build thread make it sound as if the seats down? It sounds beautiful with the seat down lol.
 

Last edited by Treynelson1; 01-18-2016 at 01:02 PM.


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