2014 Accord Sport Audio Install
#11
glad you're happy with your efforts.
looks good. you can spend some more time with wire routing to try to get most of it secured every 6-8" or so. you can use zip tie mounts.
make sure you get some L-brackets in there to rigidly secure the box in place. while it may seem secure with friction, you want it difficult to steal and secured such that fast turns or an accident doesn't cause the box to move and stress the connections at the amp.
looks good. you can spend some more time with wire routing to try to get most of it secured every 6-8" or so. you can use zip tie mounts.
make sure you get some L-brackets in there to rigidly secure the box in place. while it may seem secure with friction, you want it difficult to steal and secured such that fast turns or an accident doesn't cause the box to move and stress the connections at the amp.
ya my cable management is a little better but i didnt take pics of that. i just wanted to get done at that point. now its 30 outside again, try to get more pics soon.
ya i should do the brackets. ill have to plan it though, dont really want to drill into the floor/cargo mat.
anything else help? i was thinking of putting on some rubber feet. my cargo mat is rubber, so i thought the rubber on rubber friction plus the weight would be sufficient?
#12
Did you do anything about the ANC module?
I'm in the middle of installing the same P900.5 amp, but was planning on using a LOC by splicing into the rear speaker wire for signal.
I was working around the console/dash area yesterday and decided to go ahead and unplug the ANC module, and it appears my bluetooth HFL doesn't work anymore. This is contrary to just about everything I've read online, and I'm really opposed to cutting mic wires.
Most of what I've read makes me think that the ANC really hurts the performance once an amp is brought into the equation (e.g. random booms upon startup)
I'm in the middle of installing the same P900.5 amp, but was planning on using a LOC by splicing into the rear speaker wire for signal.
I was working around the console/dash area yesterday and decided to go ahead and unplug the ANC module, and it appears my bluetooth HFL doesn't work anymore. This is contrary to just about everything I've read online, and I'm really opposed to cutting mic wires.
Most of what I've read makes me think that the ANC really hurts the performance once an amp is brought into the equation (e.g. random booms upon startup)
#14
Did you do anything about the ANC module?
I'm in the middle of installing the same P900.5 amp, but was planning on using a LOC by splicing into the rear speaker wire for signal.
I was working around the console/dash area yesterday and decided to go ahead and unplug the ANC module, and it appears my bluetooth HFL doesn't work anymore. This is contrary to just about everything I've read online, and I'm really opposed to cutting mic wires.
Most of what I've read makes me think that the ANC really hurts the performance once an amp is brought into the equation (e.g. random booms upon startup)
I'm in the middle of installing the same P900.5 amp, but was planning on using a LOC by splicing into the rear speaker wire for signal.
I was working around the console/dash area yesterday and decided to go ahead and unplug the ANC module, and it appears my bluetooth HFL doesn't work anymore. This is contrary to just about everything I've read online, and I'm really opposed to cutting mic wires.
Most of what I've read makes me think that the ANC really hurts the performance once an amp is brought into the equation (e.g. random booms upon startup)
my anc is unplugged.
what year and model is yours? 2013s, the hfl sits below the anc under the radio. 2014s dont have an hfl unit below it.
did you unplug a mic? if so that is also the mic for bluetooth, i found that out from experience.
also i would put the LOC preamp if u have honda premium sound.
#15
I did some additional tests and it appears that people can hear me, but I cannot hear them.
Do HFL calls come through all 4 speakers? My front speakers aren't currently hooked up (hope to finish wiring today), and I was planning on tapping into the rear speaker wires with an LOC to get the signal to the components.
#16
since u cant hear them, i would assume no fronts hooked up is your problem. it would make sense that it only comes thro the front speakers only imo, but i dont have any proof.
#17
front speaker outputs should provide voices. connecting the LOC to those should resolve your issue. Rears are certainly easier to access.
looks like I may pick up a 2014 Accord EX-L soon. I have an idea to install an aftermarket head unit with the front outputs through a LOC into the head unit AUX. I want the option for a pure signal source for competition purposes as well as a good preamp.
JL Audio and Audio Control make summing devices that can take the signal from every speaker output from a factory amp and combine them into one full-range 2-channel output.
JL Audio CL-SSI Signal summing interface for CL441dsp CleanSweep at Crutchfield.com
AudioControl LC6i (Gray) 6-channel line output converter for adding outboard amps to your factory audio system at Crutchfield.com
looks like I may pick up a 2014 Accord EX-L soon. I have an idea to install an aftermarket head unit with the front outputs through a LOC into the head unit AUX. I want the option for a pure signal source for competition purposes as well as a good preamp.
JL Audio and Audio Control make summing devices that can take the signal from every speaker output from a factory amp and combine them into one full-range 2-channel output.
JL Audio CL-SSI Signal summing interface for CL441dsp CleanSweep at Crutchfield.com
AudioControl LC6i (Gray) 6-channel line output converter for adding outboard amps to your factory audio system at Crutchfield.com
#18
front speaker outputs should provide voices. connecting the LOC to those should resolve your issue. Rears are certainly easier to access.
looks like I may pick up a 2014 Accord EX-L soon. I have an idea to install an aftermarket head unit with the front outputs through a LOC into the head unit AUX. I want the option for a pure signal source for competition purposes as well as a good preamp.
JL Audio and Audio Control make summing devices that can take the signal from every speaker output from a factory amp and combine them into one full-range 2-channel output.
JL Audio CL-SSI Signal summing interface for CL441dsp CleanSweep™ at Crutchfield.com
AudioControl LC6i (Gray) 6-channel line output converter for adding outboard amps to your factory audio system at Crutchfield.com
looks like I may pick up a 2014 Accord EX-L soon. I have an idea to install an aftermarket head unit with the front outputs through a LOC into the head unit AUX. I want the option for a pure signal source for competition purposes as well as a good preamp.
JL Audio and Audio Control make summing devices that can take the signal from every speaker output from a factory amp and combine them into one full-range 2-channel output.
JL Audio CL-SSI Signal summing interface for CL441dsp CleanSweep™ at Crutchfield.com
AudioControl LC6i (Gray) 6-channel line output converter for adding outboard amps to your factory audio system at Crutchfield.com
#20
exactly. the factory head unit for an EX-L is pretty nice and incorporates a lot of vehicle information and features. it stays.
similar to installing a LOC to feed a signal to an amp, you can install a LOC to feed a signal to a headunit. You just need to be careful of volume settings for the factory and aftermarket head units to prevent clipping. Basically, figure out the maximum signal from the factory head unit that has no distortion and never exceed it.
the real purpose though is to allow you to have a good CD player as a source for competition purposes. That bypasses all filters in the factory system.
i haven't even started looking for a place for another head unit... hopefully below the A/C controls and hopefully behind the factory cover.