2016 accord sport amp and sub
#1
08-24-2016, 10:27 AM
2016 accord sport amp and sub
I am planning on adding an amp and a sub to my 2016 accord, and keeping the stock speakers for now (will upgrade later). With that being said I have seen about how I need to disconnect the active noise cancellation mics, but is there anything else special I need to do? Also is there a port for the remote wire (amp) on the stock head unit? This is the first audio job I've done, so I'm working with some guys from works. Thanks in advance for any help!
#2
08-31-2016, 10:03 PM
Welcome.
Certainly, you need to disconnect the ANC mics. You can do this a number of ways but it sort of depends on the specific trim level you have. You can just disconnect the front and rear mic wires at the harness in the A-pillar. my build log (link in sig) contains schematics for the 9th gen.
With the Sport, you have the basic radio with a wicked high pass filter built-in. When adding an amp and sub, you want a DSP to regain bass response that is otherwise lost with the 80Hz high pass filter.
You want to tap the front speaker outputs (not the rear) because the fronts have a much stronger signal. There rear speakers have a very weak signal. Some will just remove the rears altogether and add a DSP (such as AudioControl LC2i) to boost the rear signal, restore bass, and let the HU fader act as sub level control.
The purple wire in the main harness (build log has harness pin-out) is the ignition wire and can be used to turn on amps. note that you don't want to ever turn off the HU because noise and pops can occur when the amps stay on. if you go the route of an LC2i (or similar) you can let that DSP generate the turn-on signal.
Certainly, you need to disconnect the ANC mics. You can do this a number of ways but it sort of depends on the specific trim level you have. You can just disconnect the front and rear mic wires at the harness in the A-pillar. my build log (link in sig) contains schematics for the 9th gen.
With the Sport, you have the basic radio with a wicked high pass filter built-in. When adding an amp and sub, you want a DSP to regain bass response that is otherwise lost with the 80Hz high pass filter.
You want to tap the front speaker outputs (not the rear) because the fronts have a much stronger signal. There rear speakers have a very weak signal. Some will just remove the rears altogether and add a DSP (such as AudioControl LC2i) to boost the rear signal, restore bass, and let the HU fader act as sub level control.
The purple wire in the main harness (build log has harness pin-out) is the ignition wire and can be used to turn on amps. note that you don't want to ever turn off the HU because noise and pops can occur when the amps stay on. if you go the route of an LC2i (or similar) you can let that DSP generate the turn-on signal.
#3
09-08-2016, 04:04 PM
2016 Accord Sport. I tapped the rear high level speaker lines, and the bass is weak. I did not know about the 80Hz high pass, initially, which explains why I had to crank the gain so high. I am now using an Audio Control LC7i, to restore the bass, and can now push a full 33v signal at about 1/3 the gain. That bass roll off is ridiculous
BTW Thanks for the website! There is so much info here that I have already started applying to my Accord, just in the last few weeks
BTW Thanks for the website! There is so much info here that I have already started applying to my Accord, just in the last few weeks
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