Hi, can someone feed what is the stock speakers (front and rear) wattage and ohms? I have a manual but I cant find the info there. Just want to return to its original specs. btw, head unit is still stock (Alpine). TIA!

 

i see 6.5" front and 6.5" rear (5.25" will also fit with an adapter). will be 4 ohms and wattage is typically under 20W for OEM. any aftermarket speaker in that size will work - but front depth will be limited.

 

thanks for that. current speaker is, yes 4 ohms but the wattage is 150 watts! Wow, maybe previous owner has changed it..should I bring it down 20W? Will I get more sound quality than with a high wattage? Btw, HU is Alpine 7523 that comes with a 5-CD changer inside the trunk.

 

aftermarket speakers are fine to use. the rating isn't as important as driver construction and overall build quality. you are fine using any aftermarket speaker, but higher sensitivity will be beneficial. it doesn't matter what the speaker is rated, what matters is what the amplifier provides. in your case - no more than 12W RMS per channel, which is typical of head units (factory or aftermarket). and even that 12W is unusable - in reality you don't use more than 5W per channel - and even that would be too loud for you. if you think about what a sensitivity rating for a speaker is - it tells you how loud that speaker is with only 1W of power, measured at 1 meter (3.28 feet). most speakers are between 88-93dB sensitivity - which is fairly loud... on 1W RMS of power.

 

Hi keep_hope_alive. Sorry for my late reply here. Now I know my head unit's spec. It's 25W x 4. Does this mean it has 4 channel built in amp? Now with this, I want to have a set-up (w/o using additional amp and maximize it 25 watts driving power since i'm comfortable with leveled volume for a small compact space of a car). I just want a sound quality (SQL?) inside my car just like sub-woofer set up for desktop computers. You know what i mean.. a comfortable boom boom sound in there with sound clarity for mid-bass and high frequencies of those two small left and right speakers, right?
Goona use:
1. 6-inch component speakers (separates) 100W? for the front (voice and high frequecies)
2. 6-inch woofers (watts?) for the rear speakers at the backboard (for the boom boom). Or do i have to enclose the two woofers in a small ported enclosure just enough to be placed above the backboard to have that good little boom boom?

Will this be ok? Need your insights and recommendations. Thanks in advance and a joyous new year to you!

 

head units may have a 25Wx4 rating, but that is not achievable nor meaningful. actual RMS power output is less than 12Wx4 but that is at an unlistenable volume. 4-5W is the most you'll actually listen to before distortion becomes unbareable. even then, at 2W per speaker you're at most people's comfortable listening volume.

regardless, your plan for components up front is a good one. rear 6.5 won't give you a "boom boom" output unless they are 6.5" subwoofers rated for infinite baffle (IB) use. a small 10" in a ported enclosure with an amplifier would give you adequate low end output. without the external amp, see what you can get out of some 6.5" subwoofers.

for low frequency output, you need good seals and isolation between the front and rear of the speaker. front door speakers will lack midbass without this seal or isolation. foam is your friend here - weatherstripping foam is cheap and readily available at hardware/home improvement stores.

 

keep_hope_alive, thanks for your continued reply.its really a big help for a newbie like me on car audio enhancement.

looks like i have to scout for these 6.5" sub woofer (rated for infinite baffle (IB) as mentioned (what's IB?). hope its not hard to find here..then to use external amp for these two sub woofers if not satisfied. i really don't want to eat space in my trunk for the enclosure box, besides all i need is that comfortable "boom". But wouldn't it be uncomfortable for the back passengers for the "boom" at the back of their heads? or the fader (rear/front) will do the job for balancing?

now for the sealing/isolation, can i use this PE foam? I see this in ace hardwares here for heat and roof insulation purposes.


PE FOAM INSULATION

INSULATION FOR ROOFS, WALLS & FLOORS
· Excellent for preserving and/or resisting heat and cooling energy.
· Provides strong protection against water & moisture.
· Right density for optimum thermal resistance and durability.
· Effective anti-vibration and expansion joint material for underground structure, runway and prefabricated housing.
INSULATION FOR REFRIGERATORS, AIRCONDITIONERS AND AIR HANDLING UNITS
· Non-crosslinked, closed cells effectively controls condensation problems.
· Water/moisture and chemical resistant.
· Optimum density for optimum thermal resistance and durability.
· Does not absorb odor thereby minimizing occurrence of damage caused by pests/animals.
COST-EFFICIENT INSULATION
· Lightweight, flexible and easy-to-cut
· Optimum thickness minimizes cost on accessories
· May be applied using glue, rugby or may be supplied with adhesive on one side
· Non-toxic, non-irritant
· Chemical and water resistant
· Non-toxic and does not cause irritation
· Minimum accessories even if installed under roof purlins.
FLAMMABILITY
PE heat insulation contains PE-68 fire block, which prevents the material to make flame in case of fire and instead let it melt into liquid.

thanks again..

 

rear passengers should be considered when incorporating subwoofers and rear speakers. infinite baffle means you use the trunk as the enclosure - and this works well when you have airtight seals between the cabin and trunk.

the issue with the foam you show is that you just want thin strips to mount around the speaker. for $3 you can buy a roll weatherstripping foam.