this is my big 3 upgrade...I have used 0 gauge with 0 guage ring terminals..I ordered the wire online i got about 10 feet for $33 give or take. the ring terminals were about $12 for a pack of 10. (only used 5) I also got 2, 0 gauge T power distribution blocks. Those were about $10 a pop. and then I went to wallyworld and got myself a few budget brass battery terminals. (say that 3 times fast lol)

I spent a good amount but it totally helped the voltage drops. Big 3>Audio Capacitor any day. My amps drew so much power my radio would just shut off bc the power would dip so low.

 

when adding power wire you should protect it. high temp split loom at a minimum. high temp tech flex is best.

i can't tell from that pic what you have for wire protection.

thanks for sharing!

 

nothing lol...where do you pick up the high temp loom? local home depot?

 

i usually order it online but you can get it at any autoparts store. make sure it is high temp rated since the cheap stuff would just melt in an engine bay. they do offer multiple colors as well. but OEM black is my personal favorite. then i use red heat shrink or electrical tape to label power wire, and black for ground.

 

A CT isn't all that is needed. You also need to combine the signals and provide the vehicle with the signal it needs. A microprocessor is your best bet so you can have plenty of inputs and logic that is programmable. And you are designing it from scratch since it doesn't exist... Yet.

 

The ELD has been my problem for the past 3-4 years. I started out with a HO alternator couple years ago then got the ELD engine check light code. After that, other codes started coming up. P1298, P0420, and 2 others that I have forgotten. I've researched and asked everywhere but could never come up with a solution to this engine check code. I recently replaced my PCM and had it programmed by honda but the P1298 and P0420 came right back after driving out of the Honda parking lot :-/

I've had my stock alternator go out, then bought a DB electrical alternator, then switched to DC Power alternator, and now I'm back with my DB since I sold my DC to downgrade a bit.

Had 2500-3000w rms back then. Now I'm running about 1500 rms. My DB alternator stated 170amp but I highly doubt it does that.

Anyway, I have tried everything to fix my check engine light codes. I just left it there for the past few years but it started messing up my car last month. When it was really cold (during night or morning times), the D4 light would not come on after shifting to it and my car would not accelerate normally. It would take a long time for it to speed up, it just wasn't in gear or something. I was told that my PCM would not to be replaced. I bought a working pcm and had it installed but only fixed 1 or 2 codes. The codes P1298 and P0420 are still there.

Now I am thinking about getting a new alternator and replacing my cat. Replacing the cat may fix the P0420 code, but I don't think the ELD or P1298 will ever be fixed.

I'm out of solutions. Have spent too much trying to fix these errors. I have literally thought about trashing this 99 Accord and getting a new car (non-honda) to start over. I have friends with other brand cars and they have no trouble running 2000w + systems.

 

I replaced my 7 year old Optima Red Top with a Die Hard Platinum P4 - Group 34/78. It has the following specs and was $199 at Sears. It is made by Odyssey for Die Hard and is an AGM battery. It fit PERFECT. I spent months looking over battery options before deciding on this one. The side posts are actually bus bars off the top posts, not ideal.

Battery Type:Battery Group Size:34/78DT
Battery Type:Temperate Zone:North or South
Battery Type:Transportation Type:Passenger car and light commercial
Design & Construction:Container Material:Polycarbonate/polyester
Dimensions:Height:7-4/5 in.
Dimensions:Length:10-9/10 in.
Dimensions:Width:7-1/10 in.
Power Configuration:Voltage:12.0
Power Ratings:Amp Hours At 20 Hour Rate:68
Power Ratings:Cold Cranking Amps (Cca At 0 Deg.F):880
Power Ratings:Reserve Capacity (Rc):135 min.
Product Overview:Item Weight:53.0 lbs.
Warranties & Coverage:Months In Use Free Replacement:48
Warranties & Coverage:Months In Use Pro Rated Replacement:100

 

Reserve capacity is the number of minutes a battery can maintain a useful voltage under a 25 ampere discharge. The higher the minute rating, the greater the battery's ability to run lights, pumps, inverters, and electronics for a longer period before recharging is necessary. The 25 Amp. Reserve Capacity Rating is more realistic than Amp-Hour or CCA as a measurement of capacity for deep cycle service. Batteries promoted on their high Cold Cranking Ratings are easy and inexpensive to build. The market is flooded with them, however their Reserve Capacity, Cycle Life (the number of discharges and charges the battery can deliver) and Service life are poor. Reserve Capacity is difficult and costly to engineer into a battery and requires higher quality cell materials

 

I am running 1200 watts at full tilt on my stereo. 4awg wire upgrade on the big 3 should be sufficient, shouldn't it?

 

I size the big 3 based on the current draw of the system + vehicle, taking the alt into consideration. if the alt is 130A or smaller, 4awg will suffice. Factory is 6-8awg.

Yea, 4awg would be an improvement. You can leave the factory power wire and factory battery ground, or replace the battery ground. i replace factory engine-chassis jumper and reuse the bolts.