Once I come up w/ some cash and hopefully get a job soon, i'll be getting some of this from Lowes (~$15) for a 25 foot roll x 6 inches.

Hoping to do the entire trunk and that there won't be a strong odor when it gets hot out...but even if there is, it should go away after a month or so.

Great alternative + a heck of alot cheaper than Dynamat!

 

but is it actually a sound damper? I'm looking into an alternative sound damper too, maybe this it but i cant tell what this stuff actually is.

 

It is used for roofing, but is a tar based product. The same as other sound deadening stick on products. It may be slightly thinner, but a second or even third layer would solve that. Still, its beyond cheap compared to Dynamat and whatnot.

Alot of people are starting to learn/use it.

 

Looks just like it too. Has a silver side, then the other side is peelable and reveals a black tar.

Proper installation is required though. You have to clean all the paint w/ alcohol then heat up the parts where you'll be applying it right before applicaiton.

 

sounds like this tar can be smelly, and peel off over time. this isnt confirmed or anything its just what I've read over the past 1/2 hour. theres second skin too.

 

I read that it can peel if you don't apply it properly. You have to heat up the surface first.

Haven't read any confirmation on smell though.

 

Avoid it for several reasons.

First - it smells, it's asphalt. all asphalt smells - for weeks.
Second - it's not a viscoelastic dampener. the formula is vastly different. it will add mass, and lower panel resonance, but it won't perform the same.


I recommend Second Skin products. Even Damplifier Lite will outperform peel-n-seal.

 

i do agree the peel and seal is for roofing, so it must not be as "clean" as you would want it to be to work inside of a car. I saw one account where the user found the peel and seal to work, but many others have also stated to steer clear of the stuff.

I'm still thinking the second skin is pricey though. there has to be some sort of real cheap, dense foam or something to use. spray on some glue, and stick on a mat of some sort lol.

 

not sure if you are aware, but i'm an Acoustics Engineer. I study and apply acoustical and vibration solutions, study materials and how they work, etc. that, combined with my love and experience in mobile audio, have given me the desire to study automotive applications.

I can share a few pieces of info on the subject that help to understand what and why stuff works, as simplified as I can. Nothing is this simple, it’s as complex and non-linear as you care to know.

There are several reasons for adding materials to your vehicle.
1) you want to reduce airborne noise such as tires, engine, wind, etc. – barriers and layers
2) you want to reduce panel resonance, buzzing, rattles, etc. – viscoelastic dampeners
3) you want to add a sound system and want better performance – both dampeners and barriers
4) all of the above

There are several types of products on the market for the purpose of sound deadening and noise isolation. I’m not going to tell you which one I think is best as it varies for each application. Also, I haven’t tried them all. However, if you know how they are made, you can categorize them and apply them correctly.

asphalt mat is the cheapest product but offers very little benefit for acoustics. It adds weight to the panels but it doesn’t adhere well, it never fully cures in a way that it’s bonded to the panel, and it doesn’t handle hold up bonded to metal in cold and hot climates. It wasn’t meant to be inverted either. It smells for weeks, and the smell never really goes away. Since it doesn’t bond well, it doesn’t do much for reducing panel vibrations or resonance. It can act as a barrier against road noise, if it’s a continuous application, in which case it’s bond isn’t that important.

PSA backed viscoelastic dampening products are different than the cheap forms of sound deadening. The magic is the ability to move on a molecular level, absorbing sound energy and vibration energy in the process. These materials still require a great adhesive (you get what you pay for here), but they don’t smell. Many include an aluminum layer that not only increases transmission loss but helps insulate as well (adds cost). Products with an embossed aluminum layer require extra thought as the lettering doesn’t conform as well. It can be applied on metal or plastic. Even the plastic interior panels can receive a coat on the back side with foam or felt.

Foam is for decoupling, sealing, and mid-high frequency absorption. Absorption is dependent on thickness. Closed cell is more firm and won’t sop up water. Open cell is much softer and shouldn’t be used on anything that can get wet. It’s great for interior plastic panels. I’ll also use felt between plastic panels in a car to reduce vibration.

Mass loaded vinyl barriers are awesome for increasing transmission loss (absorb more noise). They must be decoupled from the metal floor though, a thin layer of foam or padding is sufficient. All seams should be sealed with proper tape. I have a lot of resources for MLV both commercial and personal (single rolls) – contact me if interested. 1/8” thick, 1 lb./sq.ft. is common MLV. This can be viscoelastic in make up or standard MLV. The latter will be cheaper and won’t perform as well.

In summary, there are many products on the market for each application. You get what you pay for. Dynamat may have a mark-up on it, but it works. Second Skin also works. There are “sound deadener showdowns” on DIYMA and SoundDomain if people are interested in comparisons. What I do like about Second Skin is their performance and amount of product selection. They do it all, well.

It’s important to recognize what you goals are for these products, and to make sure you choose the correct items. Installation is everything, how they are installed dictates their performance. This is not going to be cheap. It’s a vital part of the installation and you get what you pay for. The automobile is a horrible environment for anything quiet and non-resonant. You must treat this if you expect acoustical performance or quiet.

If you spend as much on acoustical treatments as you do on speakers + subs, you’re on the right track.

 

Wow! Quite a bit of top notch knowledge right there!

However, I am not extremely into audio. I like my system but don't have amped speakers or anything like that. I've got a single Volfenhag sub, Audiobahn amp, kenwood kvt-512 HU, 1 farad cap. Its a great system for the price and I would without question go with the Peel and Seal but still am not to sure about the whole smell thing. I did buy 3 $11 Scosche sound deadening material kits that I use for all for speakers....not that that did much! But aw well!

I'll see how everything goes. It is really the lack of funds that will tell me what to do!