Thank you for the information and advice. Well written article

 

This is my plug is under my fuse box. And this is the schematic I did. Blue/silver on the left, black in the middle and orange/silver.

 

Any info will greatly appreciated.

 

your drawing looks fine.

the remote turn-on should be the same for both amps.

pics of the amp wiring?

 

Yes both amps share the remote wire. I believe I have to add a relay to the remote wire for the amps and n other accessories. I also only put a 815 ohm resistors. how do I determine the resistor value? I have a multi meter but how do I do the math part???

 

with the resistor in place, if the DC voltage seen by the PCM is around 2VDC then the resistor value is sufficient.

the amp problem should be separate from the ELD concern.

 

Problem has been fixed. I added a relay for the extra amperage for the extra accessories I have since the radio can only remote turn on a limited of things with out the relay. I still wanna know how u determine the resistor value.

 

i just measured voltage at and across the ELD with accessories turned on. then ohm's law tells me current and thus the resistance.

 

For those of you who are interested, the 92-00 civics fuse box can handle higher amperage than the main fuse would have you believe. I have used a 140A fuse off a dakota (found in the junkyard). I bent the legs out and drilled holes to make it fit the honda fuse box. I then used (on my car, unused) an empty slot in the underhood box to make a connector for my stereo power wire. I have a kicker 400w for mids/highs, and until recently had a "3400w" SPL pushing 2 s12l7s full tilt with no heat issues or blown fuses. I may post pics of it later for interested parties

 

It's been a while since the last posting to this thread, and I would like to revisit it. I actually have a 2012 Civic LX sedan, not an Accord, but it appears the ELD situation is the same for most US Hondas. I make a lot of short hop trips, and my battery just isn't kept charged by the Honda charging system. The only way I can keep the alternator voltage at 14.4V so that the battery will charge is to drive with the headlights on. But that wastes power, so the original posts by keep_hope_alive are very interesting to me. But I want to describe doing the bypass a different way, and see what everybody thinks.

The KHA method cuts the line going from the computer to the ELD, and runs it through a switch that either makes a normal connection to the ELD or connects it to ground through an 820-ohm resistor. But I wonder if it would also work to leave all the lines as they are, but have the switch connect the ELD line in parallel to ground through that resistor. Since the ELD is still connected, and pulling down the line voltage to some extent on its own, the added resistor to ground could probably be a higher value than 820 ohms and still keep the voltage below 2.1V.

Alternatively, instead of a resistor, a 2V zener diode could be used which would conduct at any voltage above 2V, and keep the voltage at that level, but have no effect if the ELD takes it below that voltage on its own. A 2V zener isn't a common item, so maybe three forward biased regular diodes in series would produce close enough to a 2V drop to work. They have a forward drop of about .6V each.

The other thing I'm wondering about is whether all of this could be done inside the passenger compartment by locating the ELD wire and a ground wire somewhere near the computer, attach clip-on connectors to them, and bring those new lines up to a simple SPST switch under the dash, with the resistor or diode(s) soldered to one switch terminal. If the switch is open, then the original circuit would operate normally. When it's closed, the additional path to ground would be connected in parallel with the original circuit.

I should add that my 2012 Civic does indeed have an ELD. I don't know about later models. But what I'm missing is information on the ELD line. I saw somethere that it's pin 15 on the E connector, and red/green. But I don't know if that's correctfor my model. Where does someone go to get that information for his model car? Also, is it possible to get to the connector, or to the wires involved, under the dash, or is this idea just impractical?

Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.


Edit: It appears the ECM of my car is not inside the passenger compartment as I thought, but in the engine compartment next to the fuse box. And it's not clear how I would do any version of an ELD bypass. It looks like the fuse box is connected to a large plastic pipe that goes through the firewall, and I don't see any slack that would allow removing the box. And that would have to come out to get access to the connectors or wires at the ECM. So I may be dead in the water on this.