Changing Clutch 2007 Accord
#1
12-06-2016, 02:28 PM
Changing Clutch 2007 Accord
This past weekend I drove 6 hours to help my brother change the clutch in his 2007 Honda Accord. I'm mechanically inclined, he is....able to follow instructions most of the time. I did a search to find some instructions, but didn't really come up with anything concrete for a 2007. So I thought I'd write this up to help someone else out!
It took us 12 hours, which included time for doing research for instructions and torque values; eating lunch and dinner; and a run to NAPA. Did it in a barn on a dirt floor (had cardboard and plywood to lay on) and it was 28 degrees out. None of our tools were organized- we spent a lot of time looking for sockets. If we did it again, I think we could do it in 7-8 hours, maybe less. My brother was quoted $1100 for a shop to replace the clutch. After we had it all apart, actual point of failure was the through-out bearing.
So here is an outline of how it went:
- Jack the car up. We had the rear wheels on ramps and the front supported by jack stands, under the frame behind the engine bay. Make sure your parking brake is on/block the rear wheels. Since we were working on an uneven dirt floor, we took the extra precaution and placed a 6"x6" across the bottom of the car (just behind the catalytic converter, there is a spot that it won't hit the exhaust), supported by a 12 ton bottle jack. We also put a cinder block under each end of the 6"x6" in-case it were to twist and fall.
-Remove the battery and air filter.
-Label and remove all the wires and hoses to the transmission and throttle body.- There are two hoses the go into the throttle body for cooling. The lower hose will leak coolant and should be closed off and kept upright otherwise it will make a mess everywhere.
- There are two "levers" mounted on the top side of the transmission for shifting. They have cotter pins. Remove the cotter pins and we unbolted the assembly at the other mount that they cables were held on at- NOT the bolts at the assembly with the cotter pins, that remains intact.
-There is a transmission mount to the inside of the driver's side fender, behind the battery box mount. We removed the battery box mount for easier access.
-Remove the intake manifold. There is a black bracket on the bottom side of the manifold, toward the right side. Remove the bolt that secured the mount to the engine. We also removed the nut at the top of the bracket, that goes to the manifold- that shouldn't need to be removed, reaching to get the nut back on was a pain.
-Remove the front-most starter bolt. The other start bolt doesn't go into the bell housing.
-Remove the tires.
-Remove remove the axle nuts.
-Remove the lower ball joint cotter pins and nut.
-Pull the lower ball joints out of the lower control arms- place a jack with a small block of wood under the ball joint; jack it up a few inches and hit the lower control arm, near the ball joint, with a hammer. They pop off after a few good hits.
-Pull the hub assemblies away to remove the axle shafts- secure the assembly/strut so it is out of the way and not pushing against the axles.
-Axles pull out of the transmission, may need a little pry where it goes into the transmission.
-The passenger side has a carrier bearing, 3 bolts, that needs to be removed for that side to slide out.
-Slide the drive side axle shaft out as far as you can- it won't have clearance to be removed completely from under the car, through the strut. Support the end and let it be.
-Most of what I said that the sub-frame needs to be dropped. we saw a youtube video for a 2003, I think, where the mechanic said that the sub-frame doesn't actually need to be dropped. We decided to take a chance and leave the sub-frame intact. I did loosen the 4 corner bolts for the sub-frame, but I don't think that made any difference.
-On the driver side, under the wheel well, there are two transmission mounts. We put a jack with a block of wood under the transmission and removed those two mounts.
-There is another transmission mount on the backside of the transmission. The lower bolt to this can be accessed from under the car, the upper bolt can be accessed from above- it is hard to see.
-There is a little tab on the side of the transmission, probably a lift point. Loosen or remove the bolt so that the tab isn't sticking up above the transmission.
-Remove the transmission dust cover
-Remove the bolts from the engine block to the transmission bell housing
-It took a little wiggling to get the transmission to separate from the engine block.
-One person on top and on person under the car, we were able to slide the transmission over into the wheel well as far as it would go. We really had plenty of space to access the through-out bearing, clutch and flywheel.
-Make sure you use 12point sockets on the clutch and flywheel bolts.
-We found it easier to tighten the bolts with the person on top using the prybar to keep the flywheel from turning (pressed against the transmission alignment pin in the engine block).
-Getting the transmission aligned to go back in was probably the hardest part of the project, if you call it hard. We were having issues getting it to meet the engine block squarely, and it didn't want to go past the rear transmission mount- it was a snug fit. It took 3 attempts to get the transmission to slide into place. I don't know what we could have done differently to make it go the first time.
-Everything else just goes back together like it came off.
It took us 12 hours, which included time for doing research for instructions and torque values; eating lunch and dinner; and a run to NAPA. Did it in a barn on a dirt floor (had cardboard and plywood to lay on) and it was 28 degrees out. None of our tools were organized- we spent a lot of time looking for sockets. If we did it again, I think we could do it in 7-8 hours, maybe less. My brother was quoted $1100 for a shop to replace the clutch. After we had it all apart, actual point of failure was the through-out bearing.
So here is an outline of how it went:
- Jack the car up. We had the rear wheels on ramps and the front supported by jack stands, under the frame behind the engine bay. Make sure your parking brake is on/block the rear wheels. Since we were working on an uneven dirt floor, we took the extra precaution and placed a 6"x6" across the bottom of the car (just behind the catalytic converter, there is a spot that it won't hit the exhaust), supported by a 12 ton bottle jack. We also put a cinder block under each end of the 6"x6" in-case it were to twist and fall.
-Remove the battery and air filter.
-Label and remove all the wires and hoses to the transmission and throttle body.- There are two hoses the go into the throttle body for cooling. The lower hose will leak coolant and should be closed off and kept upright otherwise it will make a mess everywhere.
- There are two "levers" mounted on the top side of the transmission for shifting. They have cotter pins. Remove the cotter pins and we unbolted the assembly at the other mount that they cables were held on at- NOT the bolts at the assembly with the cotter pins, that remains intact.
-There is a transmission mount to the inside of the driver's side fender, behind the battery box mount. We removed the battery box mount for easier access.
-Remove the intake manifold. There is a black bracket on the bottom side of the manifold, toward the right side. Remove the bolt that secured the mount to the engine. We also removed the nut at the top of the bracket, that goes to the manifold- that shouldn't need to be removed, reaching to get the nut back on was a pain.
-Remove the front-most starter bolt. The other start bolt doesn't go into the bell housing.
-Remove the tires.
-Remove remove the axle nuts.
-Remove the lower ball joint cotter pins and nut.
-Pull the lower ball joints out of the lower control arms- place a jack with a small block of wood under the ball joint; jack it up a few inches and hit the lower control arm, near the ball joint, with a hammer. They pop off after a few good hits.
-Pull the hub assemblies away to remove the axle shafts- secure the assembly/strut so it is out of the way and not pushing against the axles.
-Axles pull out of the transmission, may need a little pry where it goes into the transmission.
-The passenger side has a carrier bearing, 3 bolts, that needs to be removed for that side to slide out.
-Slide the drive side axle shaft out as far as you can- it won't have clearance to be removed completely from under the car, through the strut. Support the end and let it be.
-Most of what I said that the sub-frame needs to be dropped. we saw a youtube video for a 2003, I think, where the mechanic said that the sub-frame doesn't actually need to be dropped. We decided to take a chance and leave the sub-frame intact. I did loosen the 4 corner bolts for the sub-frame, but I don't think that made any difference.
-On the driver side, under the wheel well, there are two transmission mounts. We put a jack with a block of wood under the transmission and removed those two mounts.
-There is another transmission mount on the backside of the transmission. The lower bolt to this can be accessed from under the car, the upper bolt can be accessed from above- it is hard to see.
-There is a little tab on the side of the transmission, probably a lift point. Loosen or remove the bolt so that the tab isn't sticking up above the transmission.
-Remove the transmission dust cover
-Remove the bolts from the engine block to the transmission bell housing
-It took a little wiggling to get the transmission to separate from the engine block.
-One person on top and on person under the car, we were able to slide the transmission over into the wheel well as far as it would go. We really had plenty of space to access the through-out bearing, clutch and flywheel.
-Make sure you use 12point sockets on the clutch and flywheel bolts.
-We found it easier to tighten the bolts with the person on top using the prybar to keep the flywheel from turning (pressed against the transmission alignment pin in the engine block).
-Getting the transmission aligned to go back in was probably the hardest part of the project, if you call it hard. We were having issues getting it to meet the engine block squarely, and it didn't want to go past the rear transmission mount- it was a snug fit. It took 3 attempts to get the transmission to slide into place. I don't know what we could have done differently to make it go the first time.
-Everything else just goes back together like it came off.
Last edited by brycez28; 12-06-2016 at 02:33 PM.
#3
11-16-2018, 05:24 PM
Diy
This past weekend I drove 6 hours to help my brother change the clutch in his 2007 Honda Accord. I'm mechanically inclined, he is....able to follow instructions most of the time. I did a search to find some instructions, but didn't really come up with anything concrete for a 2007. So I thought I'd write this up to help someone else out!
It took us 12 hours, which included time for doing research for instructions and torque values; eating lunch and dinner; and a run to NAPA. Did it in a barn on a dirt floor (had cardboard and plywood to lay on) and it was 28 degrees out. None of our tools were organized- we spent a lot of time looking for sockets. If we did it again, I think we could do it in 7-8 hours, maybe less. My brother was quoted $1100 for a shop to replace the clutch. After we had it all apart, actual point of failure was the through-out bearing.
So here is an outline of how it went:
- Jack the car up. We had the rear wheels on ramps and the front supported by jack stands, under the frame behind the engine bay. Make sure your parking brake is on/block the rear wheels. Since we were working on an uneven dirt floor, we took the extra precaution and placed a 6"x6" across the bottom of the car (just behind the catalytic converter, there is a spot that it won't hit the exhaust), supported by a 12 ton bottle jack. We also put a cinder block under each end of the 6"x6" in-case it were to twist and fall.
-Remove the battery and air filter.
-Label and remove all the wires and hoses to the transmission and throttle body.- There are two hoses the go into the throttle body for cooling. The lower hose will leak coolant and should be closed off and kept upright otherwise it will make a mess everywhere.
- There are two "levers" mounted on the top side of the transmission for shifting. They have cotter pins. Remove the cotter pins and we unbolted the assembly at the other mount that they cables were held on at- NOT the bolts at the assembly with the cotter pins, that remains intact.
-There is a transmission mount to the inside of the driver's side fender, behind the battery box mount. We removed the battery box mount for easier access.
-Remove the intake manifold. There is a black bracket on the bottom side of the manifold, toward the right side. Remove the bolt that secured the mount to the engine. We also removed the nut at the top of the bracket, that goes to the manifold- that shouldn't need to be removed, reaching to get the nut back on was a pain.
-Remove the front-most starter bolt. The other start bolt doesn't go into the bell housing.
-Remove the tires.
-Remove remove the axle nuts.
-Remove the lower ball joint cotter pins and nut.
-Pull the lower ball joints out of the lower control arms- place a jack with a small block of wood under the ball joint; jack it up a few inches and hit the lower control arm, near the ball joint, with a hammer. They pop off after a few good hits.
-Pull the hub assemblies away to remove the axle shafts- secure the assembly/strut so it is out of the way and not pushing against the axles.
-Axles pull out of the transmission, may need a little pry where it goes into the transmission.
-The passenger side has a carrier bearing, 3 bolts, that needs to be removed for that side to slide out.
-Slide the drive side axle shaft out as far as you can- it won't have clearance to be removed completely from under the car, through the strut. Support the end and let it be.
-Most of what I said that the sub-frame needs to be dropped. we saw a youtube video for a 2003, I think, where the mechanic said that the sub-frame doesn't actually need to be dropped. We decided to take a chance and leave the sub-frame intact. I did loosen the 4 corner bolts for the sub-frame, but I don't think that made any difference.
-On the driver side, under the wheel well, there are two transmission mounts. We put a jack with a block of wood under the transmission and removed those two mounts.
-There is another transmission mount on the backside of the transmission. The lower bolt to this can be accessed from under the car, the upper bolt can be accessed from above- it is hard to see.
-There is a little tab on the side of the transmission, probably a lift point. Loosen or remove the bolt so that the tab isn't sticking up above the transmission.
-Remove the transmission dust cover
-Remove the bolts from the engine block to the transmission bell housing
-It took a little wiggling to get the transmission to separate from the engine block.
-One person on top and on person under the car, we were able to slide the transmission over into the wheel well as far as it would go. We really had plenty of space to access the through-out bearing, clutch and flywheel.
-Make sure you use 12point sockets on the clutch and flywheel bolts.
-We found it easier to tighten the bolts with the person on top using the prybar to keep the flywheel from turning (pressed against the transmission alignment pin in the engine block).
-Getting the transmission aligned to go back in was probably the hardest part of the project, if you call it hard. We were having issues getting it to meet the engine block squarely, and it didn't want to go past the rear transmission mount- it was a snug fit. It took 3 attempts to get the transmission to slide into place. I don't know what we could have done differently to make it go the first time.
-Everything else just goes back together like it came off.
It took us 12 hours, which included time for doing research for instructions and torque values; eating lunch and dinner; and a run to NAPA. Did it in a barn on a dirt floor (had cardboard and plywood to lay on) and it was 28 degrees out. None of our tools were organized- we spent a lot of time looking for sockets. If we did it again, I think we could do it in 7-8 hours, maybe less. My brother was quoted $1100 for a shop to replace the clutch. After we had it all apart, actual point of failure was the through-out bearing.
So here is an outline of how it went:
- Jack the car up. We had the rear wheels on ramps and the front supported by jack stands, under the frame behind the engine bay. Make sure your parking brake is on/block the rear wheels. Since we were working on an uneven dirt floor, we took the extra precaution and placed a 6"x6" across the bottom of the car (just behind the catalytic converter, there is a spot that it won't hit the exhaust), supported by a 12 ton bottle jack. We also put a cinder block under each end of the 6"x6" in-case it were to twist and fall.
-Remove the battery and air filter.
-Label and remove all the wires and hoses to the transmission and throttle body.- There are two hoses the go into the throttle body for cooling. The lower hose will leak coolant and should be closed off and kept upright otherwise it will make a mess everywhere.
- There are two "levers" mounted on the top side of the transmission for shifting. They have cotter pins. Remove the cotter pins and we unbolted the assembly at the other mount that they cables were held on at- NOT the bolts at the assembly with the cotter pins, that remains intact.
-There is a transmission mount to the inside of the driver's side fender, behind the battery box mount. We removed the battery box mount for easier access.
-Remove the intake manifold. There is a black bracket on the bottom side of the manifold, toward the right side. Remove the bolt that secured the mount to the engine. We also removed the nut at the top of the bracket, that goes to the manifold- that shouldn't need to be removed, reaching to get the nut back on was a pain.
-Remove the front-most starter bolt. The other start bolt doesn't go into the bell housing.
-Remove the tires.
-Remove remove the axle nuts.
-Remove the lower ball joint cotter pins and nut.
-Pull the lower ball joints out of the lower control arms- place a jack with a small block of wood under the ball joint; jack it up a few inches and hit the lower control arm, near the ball joint, with a hammer. They pop off after a few good hits.
-Pull the hub assemblies away to remove the axle shafts- secure the assembly/strut so it is out of the way and not pushing against the axles.
-Axles pull out of the transmission, may need a little pry where it goes into the transmission.
-The passenger side has a carrier bearing, 3 bolts, that needs to be removed for that side to slide out.
-Slide the drive side axle shaft out as far as you can- it won't have clearance to be removed completely from under the car, through the strut. Support the end and let it be.
-Most of what I said that the sub-frame needs to be dropped. we saw a youtube video for a 2003, I think, where the mechanic said that the sub-frame doesn't actually need to be dropped. We decided to take a chance and leave the sub-frame intact. I did loosen the 4 corner bolts for the sub-frame, but I don't think that made any difference.
-On the driver side, under the wheel well, there are two transmission mounts. We put a jack with a block of wood under the transmission and removed those two mounts.
-There is another transmission mount on the backside of the transmission. The lower bolt to this can be accessed from under the car, the upper bolt can be accessed from above- it is hard to see.
-There is a little tab on the side of the transmission, probably a lift point. Loosen or remove the bolt so that the tab isn't sticking up above the transmission.
-Remove the transmission dust cover
-Remove the bolts from the engine block to the transmission bell housing
-It took a little wiggling to get the transmission to separate from the engine block.
-One person on top and on person under the car, we were able to slide the transmission over into the wheel well as far as it would go. We really had plenty of space to access the through-out bearing, clutch and flywheel.
-Make sure you use 12point sockets on the clutch and flywheel bolts.
-We found it easier to tighten the bolts with the person on top using the prybar to keep the flywheel from turning (pressed against the transmission alignment pin in the engine block).
-Getting the transmission aligned to go back in was probably the hardest part of the project, if you call it hard. We were having issues getting it to meet the engine block squarely, and it didn't want to go past the rear transmission mount- it was a snug fit. It took 3 attempts to get the transmission to slide into place. I don't know what we could have done differently to make it go the first time.
-Everything else just goes back together like it came off.
Im planning on changing a 2003 accord clutch by myself because of some of the prices ive gotten that are similar to yours. Would you recommend taking it on if im not mechanically inclined with the help of a couple people who kinda know a little bit about cars and access to a lift. What do you think?
#4
11-18-2018, 06:58 AM
Having the lift is a plus, but I'm not sure about a couple people who "kinda know a little bit about cars". It would be safer to do the job if you find a friend who has done some big jobs like this. Or at least convince yourself that they have more experience than it sounds.
#5
04-08-2019, 10:01 PM
These instructions are dead on accurate for a 2004 Honda Accord EX 5 speed manual, good write up!
#6
12-30-2019, 03:21 PM
Would it be the same process for a 2008 Honda Accord? I know it’s a different generation but I have only been able to find these forums for this generation
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