I'm going to try this I'll let y'all know how it goes...

 

All done!!!! that was exactly the problem... I whould have never figured that out.. It was the stupid rubber stoppers. I was missing completely.. so I added some rubber and glued and also bent the tab alittle. It works perfectly.. thanks.. redbull-1 ur the man..I would like to say though ck the placement of the lower window track before you remove it. I did not n it took me a little to figure it out, but I did it wasn't that hard. I just wish I looked at it before I removed it.. PEACE out..

 

Don't forget to be with us in here and hang out with us alot..
Thanks to you also for your posting.

WheelBrokerAng

 

The Left Rear power lock actuator on my 94 EX just buzzes when actuated and does not move the lock. I decided to remove and attempt to repair using this thread and 1A Auto DIY video ( ).

The 1A Auto video recommends removal of the entire door latch assy w/ actutator to access the actuator, rather than remove actuator from in-place latch assy as recommended in this thread.

I elected to remove door panel, inspect, and decide which way to procede. Upon inspecting the access, the three actuator retaining screws and one cover retaining screw were difficult to access and I decided to remove latch assy w/ actuator.

I had no problems w/ latch assy & actutor removal, but getting the assy by the window channel guide is a bit tricky. Also, the latch assy screws (3) are very tight and may require an impact driver or other tools to release.

Once the latch assy and actuator are removed, it is straightforward to separate actuator from latch assy; remove single cover screw and three actuator retaining screws.

I removed the actuator cover expecting to see crushed rubber stops, but found the stops in pristine condition. I rigged a 12v power supply to test the actuator and found the upper drive gear and actuator spur gear did not move when lower actuator motor and drive gear turned. There is apparently a clutch mechanism between the lower drive gear and upper drive gear to provide some slippage when stops are reached.

I was about to throw the actuator away and order a new part when I noticed a small spring beneath the lower drive gear. It had a plastic piece behind outer end which I initially thought was a shim to compress the spring, but on closer examination I found it was a retainer that had broken away from lower drive assy body. This released almost all compression in the spring. I immediately wondered if additional compression might cause the clutch mechanism to engage. I rigged a wood chip to provide some compression of the spring. See first pic below. You can just see the small compression spring between the wood shim and drive assy. Upon testing, the drive mechanism worked as intended and spur gear pushed against stops in both directions when power was applied.

The 2nd pic shows the upper case cover w/ masking tape inlaid to provide confinement of the wood shim and hopefully prevent it from "walking" out of position. Chip was sized to fill most of the space and hopefully spring compression will hold chip in place also.

Installation of repaired actuator was reverse of removal. The video by 1A Auto is very helpful.

In summary there are at least two ways the actuator can fail, and a 2nd repair option is possible.

good luck

 

After about 284,000 miles, my power door lock cycle on and off. I came here and read how to fix. I will work on it this spring. I also found a Honda Service bulletin on the web concerning this problem too.


I thank Redbull 1 for all his help. He helped me on another problem in the past with pics and all. The guy is great. Will report back.

 

just fixxed my actuator. great write up!
actually works too good now no cycling but the door now auto lock when opening? moves the door lock and all. guess its working. also only one rubber thing was broken the other was still like-new. might be an issue with the radio anti theft etc.

 

I pulled my drivers(main) actuator last week, and the passengers rear. Tabs looked good. My locks were cycling with the car sitting for a day or two, or ? I thought after I pulled them and bent the tabs a little I had fixed it. Nope... My daughter was walking by the car on her way home from school and the locks were cycling. They must have cycled for a couple days because they drew the battery down. I bought a new master actuator and replaced it yesterday. So far so good. It was mainly the passengers rear that was constantly cycling. If the new actuator doesn't work, I'm pulling the fuse for good and forget the power locks.

One thing I noticed is they no longer lock or unlock with the key, OR, when I pull the outside handle up and push the ****. If that's all i lose and they don't cycle anymore, I'll take it!!!

 

New actuator(main) in drivers door. STILL keeps auto locking and unlocking while parked, it just keeps relocking itself. It can go 2-3 days acting normal, then it starts acting stupid. SO.... I took the fuse out. F the power locks, I give up. There HAS to be a controller in this car somewhere under the dash that is screwed up.

 

could be the wagon door latch take them all off and check

 

The previous post by TexasHonda described the problem I had exactly. My right rear door lock would buzz but not actuate electronically. I could manually lock and unlock it. After removing the actuator (see the link on his response) I then took out the four screws that allow you to open the motor case. Take care in opening as there is a thin gasket that seals the case. Inspection showed that the rubber bumpers were in place and in very good condition. While open I decided to plug it back into the wiring harness and hit the power door lock to see how it operates. The lower gears would spin but there is a round white plastic piece that was not engaging to move the gear leg above. There is some kind of clutch mechanism inside that thing and what happens is there is a black spring that needs to be compressed to make it engage. When I took the motor out this spring came out and I found a loose white piece of plastic that was floating around which used to retain the spring. This piece is useless, so I also cut a piece of wood as a shim as TexasHonda suggested, wedged it over the spring and super glued into place. To test you have to plug into the harness again and it worked, brilliant! You could buy a new actuator or you can save the $100 and fix it if your spring is not retained when you take the motor out. It took me 5 minutes to cut the shim and get placed. Everything else inside that case looked so clean it would be a shame to just throw it out. Thank you TexasHonda!