My daughter has a 2003 Accord EX Coupe. The passenger side window will not roll up or down from either the master switch or the passenger side switch. I bought a new window regulator and this did not solve the issue. I get 12v at the plug to the motor and I get a clicking sound from the switch. I also noticed the passenger door will not unlock from the passenger side switch but will from the master switch.

Any ideas?? Is it possible the switch is bad even though it shows 12v? Is there a way to test the motor with the regulator out of the car?

Thanks

 

See this thread:

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...t-budge-59199/


You can test the motor in or out of the car. Apply 12 volt battery power and ground to terminal pin #3 (Red/Blu wire) and terminal pin#6 (red wire). Power (+) to the Red/Blu wire and ground (-) to the Red wire should make the regulator go up; switching power and ground to the respective wires should make the regulator go down. Only do these briefly, so as not to burn out the motor if it is good.

 

I tested the original regulator, which has only 2 pins, and it did nothing. Went to test the replacement regulator and found it has 6 pins. I presume I have the wrong replacement and will return it taking the original with me. Thanks for the help.

 

Let me know how things turn out after you get the correct regulator motor with the matching 2P connector. The Honda service manual and separate Honda electrical troubleshooting manual only show a 6P connector; however, sometimes a few things may not be fully accurate to account for all model production changes.

 

So, after trying to narrow down the correct regulator by viewing the parts pictures on Advance auto's website I discovered they just use 1 generic pic for all of the Dorman regulators and all are 6 pin. I went to Dorman's website where they show pics of the actual item. You can also enter vehicle specific information which narrows it down. I then searched that part # at Advance's website and confirmed it was the correct part for the 2 door model. I ordered it online and picked it up an hour later. Took the old one with me for confirmation and it appeared to be identical.

It is now in the door and works as it should. Discovered the lock actuator was not working properly (would unlock but not lock) so I pulled that out and had to do the same with that part by going to the Dorman website then ordered at Advance. It will be in tomorrow and I will get the door put back together.

 

Good to hear. Thanks for reporting back that the windows is working properly now.

 

So I have another issue now with this same window. My daughter used the car all of 2 days with the new window regulator when it quit working. I couldn't get it to do anything so I used jumper wires at the main plug to the switch as was able to make it roll up and down. The door lock also works like it should. I tried testing for power at the fuse and couldn't get a reading though the fuse tested good. Does the fuse that goes to the locks also control the window?? Or is it more likely the switch? It does not "click" like it used to when it worked.

 

Just so we are on the same page. When you used the jumper wires on the main plug to the switch, you're referring to the driver's door control unit, correct? Like what is referred to in this other thread: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...t-budge-59199/

1. If that is correct, this time, only do the following:

Attach a wire to cavity 3 (where the WHT/GRN wire is), with the connector plugged back in, turn the ignition to ON. Ground the WHT/GRN wire to body and try to operate the passenger window with the switches.

If the passenger window works with the switches when you do this, it points to a faulty driver's door multiplex control unit.

For the front passenger window to work, it needs to receive voltage coming via the power window relay (a relay is basically a type of switch). The power window relay is a normally-open type relay. If the door multiplex control unit sends a ground signal via the Wht/Grn wire to the power window relay, the relay will close, which allow voltage to fuse 26. Fuse 26 will only have power going through it after the ground signal from the driver's door multiplex control unit energizes the power window relay.

3. To answer the question regarding whether the fuse that goes to the power door lock also control the power window. Under-dash Fuse No. 21 (7.5A) and No. 7 (10A) protect the multiplex integrated control unit (MICU) that controls the power windows, power door locks and some other components. However, if either of these fuses where blown, you would have a lot of other things not working; so, they probably are not the source of the problem.

 

I used jumpers on the passenger side, red and red/blue wire. The relay i'm sure is the "clicking" sound that it doesn't make anymore. I will try it like you said from the driver side just to see what it does.

Thanks for the info on fuse 26. I was wondering why I couldn't get power there. I was worried that I had some wire issues going on. I will let you know what I find.

As always, thanks for the help!

 

Hi, newbie and very amateur mechanic here. Spotted this thread after doing some searches and registered to ask a question or two.

My wife's 03 Accord EX coupe also has a passenger window that will not operate. It had intermittent work/no work problems for a while. Now it does not operate at all from either switch. I do hear the relay clicking in the passenger door when I operate the drivers side switch but not the passenger switch. I have been told that if the motor is getting power and does not operate then it is no doubt the motor that is the problem. However after reading some of the threads here it sounds like there could be other things going on. My first question is what is the easiest way(without removing the panel if possible) to check if power is getting to the motor and if it is what else should I check before buying a new regulator/motor assembly?

Thanks for your input.