If you want to test without removing a door panel:

1. First check that under-dash Fuse No. 26 (20A) is not blown.

2. You can do the test in my post #3 of this other thread first (the link was included as part of this thread already). -- This is to check if it may be a problem with the driver's door multiplex control unit. If this unit is not working properly, you won't get a reading in the next test (step #3). https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...t-budge-59199/

3. Carefully pry up the passenger side power window switch trim panel. Unplug the gray 10P connector. Place voltmeter's terminal lead in the cavity terminal no. 3 (Blu/Wht wire) and cavity terminal no. 4 (Blu/Red wire). At the driver's door master window switch, try to operate the passenger side window. It should show voltage when trying to operate down or up. The power (+) and ground (-) through those wire are switched to operate the motor up/down. If there is voltage on the Blu/Wht wire and Blu/Red wire, it can be either a faulty passenger window switch, a faulty motor, or an open (break) in the wire to the motor.

4. Alternately, you can skip the steps above and proceed directly to test the motor from the gray 10P connector at the passenger side window switch. With the 10P connector unplugged from the switch, apply direct 12 votl battery power (+) and ground (-) to cavity terminal no. 8 (Red wire) and cavity terminal no. 10 (Red/Blu wire).

Power (+) to the Red/Blu wire and ground (-) to the Red wire should make the regulator go up; switching power and ground to the respective wires should make the regulator go down. Only do these briefly, so as not to burn out the motor if it is good.

 

Easiest is to check the fuses. Then if needed remove the panel which is not hard. Grab then two wire connector to the window and use wire leads from the pos and neg battery terminal touching one to one of the window motor connector wire and the other wire to the window connector wire. If the window acts like it wanted to go up switch how the wires are touching. One way will make the window go up and the other down. If the motor works and the window operates fine then motor is good. Next, with a test light or a volt meter check that there is power into the switch control panel. If no power then there is a bad connection or break in the electrical feed which needs to be diagnosed. If there is electricity to the switch panel then the switch assembly is bad. It should only take a few minutes to do all the tests and know where the problem is. More often then not if there is a problem at the drivers window switch it is a bad switch because that it the one that usually gets wet when the window is cracked while driving.

 

Ok, thanks for all the suggestions. I will try some of the troubleshooting tricks tomorrow. I have step by step instructions to remove the panel and replace the motor assembly.

I doubt that it is the fuse since it was intermittent for a long time but who knows.

 

Did some testing today. Fuse 26 seems to be ok. However I noticed it has power without a switch being activated. I thought I read somewhere that it only had power when the switch was activated??

I then used a test light to check for voltage at the passenger wire connector. Terminals 3 and 4 did show voltage when the drivers switch was activated. I noticed something strange when I did that test though. The voltage did not turn off right away after the switch was released, sometimes but not every time. It was only on the window up side. A couple of times it didn't turn off until I pushed the switch the opposite direction. Is that normal? My first thought was that is was for the auto up/down operation??

After that I did take the passenger door panel off and checked for voltage at the two wires going to the motor. Both wires had switched voltage. One with switch up and the other switch down. This was from both switches.

For the heck of it I then connected a 12v battery charger to the two wires. Not sure if that was the best power source but I thought the motor would try to do something if it was ok. In both the 2 amp and 10 amp charger settings the motor did not budge or make a sound. I tried reversing the polarity but had the same result.

I assume all this means that it is the motor? Is there anything else that I should still check before proceeding with a new motor/regulator install?

 

For info.:
A faulty driver's side door multiplex control unit (mcu) can cause the passenger side power window to not work. Fuse 26 will only have power going through it after the ground signal from the driver's door mcu energizes the power window relay; doesn't have to have a switch activated to do that. If the driver's door mcu was faulty and didn't energize the power window relay, Fuse 26 won't have power.

• Power from Fuse 26 allows the passenger to operate the switch on the passenger side.
• However, the driver's side master switch can directly control the passenger side without going through the power window relay.

The power windows have a key-off delay function. The windows will still operate for up to 10 minutes after the ignition is turned off. Opening either front door will cancel the delay function.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Replacing the passenger window motor should be the solution at this point.

 

Ok, sounds like new motor time. The hardest part since the window is in the full up position is going to be getting at the two bolts. I'm guessing that I will have to cut one or both cables to get it to lower and then try not to let the window drop to the bottom and break. If anyone has any advice about that procedure I would appreciate it.

The other advice I'd appreciate is how much should I spend on a replacement? Should I go aftermarket or stick with a genuine Honda part. The dealership wants $145 for a new Honda replacement. I found some aftermarket on the internet for as low as $47.

 

This link has DIY instructions. You can use masking tape to hold the glass up.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/81JYxIoik5S.pdf

Personally, I use the Honda regulators; but, it is your decision. Dorman has a regulator for your car for around $60 on the internet (it is a different part number than the instructions link above).

 

Thanks redbull. I actually found the Dorman instructions a few days ago. There were a couple of differences in how my door panel needed to be removed but all in all they are very helpful.

Does the cable need to be cut on both sides or just one? If just one side which side? Left or right if looking at the passenger door from the inside?

 

You probably just need to make one cut unless the cable got jammed up. Cut the cable where it runs through the regulator track.

 

Ok, I'm having a little trouble envisioning where that is exactly but maybe once I look up in there and also have the new part in my hand I'll understand.

I'm probably making this harder than it really is