Many parts stores loan them out - you put money down, use the tool, return the tool and get all of your money back.

 

I found one at pep boys for $14, so *hopefully* I can get this taken care of today once my engine cools down. Will report back later tonight or tomorrow

 

Hey everyone! Sorry for the late reply, I've been having some serious medical issues but now that I have a bit of free time I thought I'd update.

Long story short, I had unplugged the sensor, got under the car, then realized the O2 adapter was for a 1/2" drive and all I had was 1/4". I plugged it back in, and about 15 drive cycles later the CEL went off and hasn't come back on. I haven't gone to the auto parts store to see if the codes are still in there yet.

Could this just have been a loose/dirty connection?

 

Most O2 sensor wrench/sockets are 3/8" or 1/2" drive.


You have what Honda terms an "intermittent failure" which means a system may have had a failure, but checks OK now. If the check engine light was on but then went out, the original problem may have been intermittent.

On many cars, depending on the type of failure/problem detected, the computer will store a pending trouble code the first time it is detected and no check engine light will be on. If the same failure is detected on 2 consecutive drive cycles, then check engine light comes on. The check engine light may turn off after several other drive cycles if the same failure is no longer detected.

What this means is that on your car it is was an intermittent failure. Does that mean it will come back? Possibly, yes or no. So, just drive as normal and if the check engine light comes on again, read/scan for the code(s) to see if they are the same or one or more different one.

A/F ratio and regular O2 sensors will sometimes fail or get lazy over time. I would think it is less likely due to a loose/dirty connection.

 

The codes have come back So the question now becomes this.

When I replace it tomorrow, is it feasible to remove it from the top with an extension, since it's mounted right underneath the heat shield? Every time I've gotten underneath, I have absolutely no room and I'm afraid if I jack the car any higher it'll fall off since the sensor is stuck on there pretty good.

 

Just me but when you are under a car that is lifted by a jack there should be jack stands involved and "chock" the rears wheels. I lost a friend in high school because he didn't use jack stands. Please either have some stands or get a set of ramps.

I've never had a 7th gen Accord to be able to give personal feed back on the question. According to the service manual the sensor comes out the bottom . If you are having issues getting it to brake free a longer breaker bar or "something" to give you a longer reach on it. Leverage is my friend as I'm a small guy so I have assorted pieces of "pipe" in the garage to help me make things come apart when the impact won't get in there.

As I see you were going to replace it today....hope it worked out?

 

A good set of ramps is cheap and will last a lifetime. This will provide plenty of elevation for access to O2 sensor.

good luck

 

I have always used chocks and lifts. It was the very first thing my uncle taught me when I started maintenance on my cars, but whenever I see the car rock the tiniest bit I give up. I may just invest in those ramps.

As for the sensor I gave up after about an hour. I had driven it for about 20 minutes to heat it up and soaked it in PB blaster, but it still wouldn't budge. My friend let me borrow his torch, so that's the next step.

I was reading on a truck forum some guy went as far as cutting the wires just to use a spark plug socket to take it off. I don't think I'd ever go that far, and I don't want to drop the $600 the shop is quoting to replace it either.

Just to verify, it's the lefty loosey, righty tighty theory for the O2 sensor correct? I know that there is ONE bolt on there that's opposite.

 

O2 sensor has conventional Clockwise to tighten threads. I've warmed the car up to ease removal torque. A breaker bar on the socket will provide additional leverage.

In some cases it's possible to engage a large (3/4"?) open end wrench and hit wrench w/ hammer

good luck

 

And I have used the "other side" of this as well with luck. There are products such as CRC freeze off that uses cold to help break things free. Last time I had to remove the exhaust from the rear of the cat on one of mine I used the product and IMHO it did better than regular wd40, pb, ect.