So I took my car into a shop to have the water pump and radiator replaced (car never overheated, radiator crack was noticed immediately and water pump never went out but we knew it was starting to). I am new to the area so I didn't know where to take it... well, now I know where not to take it. They called to let me know that they "fixed my idle issue for me". I said okay, thanks, yes the cold idle was a touch high thank you for doing that. Then he said that I had an intake gasket leak and would need to get that fixed. I said yes, but it was pretty mild and wasn't causing any major issues with the car, but it was on my list to have done with my next big(ger) check (I am a college student, I work but my larger checks come four times a year when my scholarships pay). He later called back to say that he couldn't find a new gasket (um, okay, didn't ask you to, but thank you) but that he "cleaned off" the old one ... ?? I said, okay, thank you. I had to pick up the car after the shop closed so paid over the phone.

It died at the first stoplight. It also revved very high the next morning when the car was cold and unlike before where a tap of the accelerator would bring it down into the warm/low idle, a tap would just make it rev higher and stay there.

After I took the car back in, he said my car would need another $600-$700 in repairs if I wanted it to run smooth again, because the throttle cable was sticking and the intake leak was sucking too much air, which is why it was dying.

So here I am. Car idles WAY too high (like 3000rpm) if it is warm or cold when in park or neutral. Then you have to slam it into gear (automatic), then it wants to fall on its face. Car idles very rough if it sits for a minute, I can hear a vacuum leak now under the hood. Car also sputters and dies when you turn the key off (vs turning off normally/smoothly).

My questions... Where should I start first? I have read that the timing could be off causing some of these issues. Considering he had to replace the timing belt with the water pump, could that be the issue? Should I replace the intake manifold gasket first, having the timing checked, or do the throttle/accelerator cable? I have a very limited time frame, taking 18 credits, working part time and also have a research project. Exhausted but need this car to run like it did before, and after spending over a grand that I didn't have I simply can't make any expensive mistakes, including taking it to another questionable mechanic right now. I'm totally fine with not having a hot rod on the highway, but I need a vehicle I can drive a few nights a week when my work at school keeps me there past when the buses are running. I really wish he had only touched the radiator and water pump, instead of helping himself to my car. I'm sure he was trying to help but find it odd that the car ran very good going in (amazingly smooth for its age, I have tried to take extremely good care of it), then ran so rough after his work and he didn't think that was an issue before he sent it out of the shop the first time...

Am not afraid to get greasy just need to know where to shine my flashlight and dig in. Thank you!

 

Well, not sure where to go or where to start.

I can change the WP on these without changing the timing belt or remving the lower timing cover - but I have owned enough 3rd gen (86-89) Accords to know a thing or two.

Also I can't figure out how or why the intake gasket would have been touched to do the work that you decribe.

So. Be sure the coolant is full, there is a bleeder screw that is used to do this _ I can describe the way I bleed the system if needed. Next, check or verify if there is a leak on the intake gasket, again several ways of doing this.

Last on these 3rd gen carb'd Accord's, the high idle is "usually" tied to the fast idle unloader. About ~60% of the time this can be because the ported vac switch that controls the vac to the unloader has gone bad, broken or the vac lines have come off,