1990 Accord has spark and fuel but doesnt start
#1
1990 Accord has spark and fuel but doesnt start
I have used the search and couldnt find this exact problem. First the accord sat for about two years in a storage before I got it. The PO said that he changed the front tires and drove the car about 5 min to test tires and then he parked. about 15 min later he came out and the car wouldnt start. Its cranks but never fires up. I checked spark and it had none so I checked coil and it was bad. I replaced it and now it has good spark. I can see gas being sprayed out of the injector through the spark plug hole. So it has bright spark and fuel. The PO replaced the cap and rotor after the car died too. Im thinking Crankshaft Positioning Sensor (CPS), or Ignition Control Module (ICM). It seems like the timing is a little off but I checked that too and its good. Would I have spark with a bad ICM? Also I put new gas and seafoam fuel stabilizer in the gas tank. When I spray starting fluid in throttle body the it "backfires" out of throttle body. Also firing order is right so thats not it? How do I check the CPS or ICM?
#2
Do you have a timing light? I would hook it up to each wire to see if there is enough spark to flash the timing light. Sometimes the visual test can fool you into thinking you have a good spark.
Since it was in storage, I would remove the snorkel from the throttle body and see if anything nested in there to block air flow. Remove distributor cap as well to see if anything nested in the car.
As for sensors, I would check for error codes. There is a writeup in the DIY section that describes the procedure.
Since it was in storage, I would remove the snorkel from the throttle body and see if anything nested in there to block air flow. Remove distributor cap as well to see if anything nested in the car.
As for sensors, I would check for error codes. There is a writeup in the DIY section that describes the procedure.
#3
Do you have a timing light? I would hook it up to each wire to see if there is enough spark to flash the timing light. Sometimes the visual test can fool you into thinking you have a good spark.
Since it was in storage, I would remove the snorkel from the throttle body and see if anything nested in there to block air flow. Remove distributor cap as well to see if anything nested in the car.
As for sensors, I would check for error codes. There is a writeup in the DIY section that describes the procedure.
Since it was in storage, I would remove the snorkel from the throttle body and see if anything nested in there to block air flow. Remove distributor cap as well to see if anything nested in the car.
As for sensors, I would check for error codes. There is a writeup in the DIY section that describes the procedure.
#4
Does the check engine light turn on for two seconds when you turn the key to the II position and not try to start the car?
I would check the ECU/TCU fuse(s). You can also reset the ECU by pulling the 7.5 amp backup/radio fuse in the engine bay fuse box.
You can check the spark timing when you test the #1 cylinder wire with the timing light. You can verify spark and ignition timing. That would rule out the ICM as the problem.
You may want to do a compression test. Since you have to remove the plugs, I would replace them if they are not new. The recommended NGK plugs in the owners manual are $2 each, so it could be a cheap fix.
I would check the ECU/TCU fuse(s). You can also reset the ECU by pulling the 7.5 amp backup/radio fuse in the engine bay fuse box.
You can check the spark timing when you test the #1 cylinder wire with the timing light. You can verify spark and ignition timing. That would rule out the ICM as the problem.
You may want to do a compression test. Since you have to remove the plugs, I would replace them if they are not new. The recommended NGK plugs in the owners manual are $2 each, so it could be a cheap fix.
#5
The check engine light does come on and go off like it is supposed to. No codes at ECU. I did reset ECU by pulling the fuse. I am doing a compression test and spark test with timing light today. And grabbing those spark plugs. Thanks for ur help PAHonda.
#6
OK I tried to check timing but the timing light wasnt flashing. So I pulled the #1 plug, I hooked up the timing light while the plug was out, had a helper crank engine, put spark plug near ground, had good spark and timing light worked. Put plug back in, had helper crank engine and timing light didnt work. Why would timing light work when plug is out and near ground but not when plug is in engine? ***INFO*** When I first got the car from the previous owner it had no spark, so I bought a new coil. So it has a new coil.
#8
OK I tried to check timing but the timing light wasnt flashing. So I pulled the #1 plug, I hooked up the timing light while the plug was out, had a helper crank engine, put spark plug near ground, had good spark and timing light worked. Put plug back in, had helper crank engine and timing light didnt work. Why would timing light work when plug is out and near ground but not when plug is in engine? ***INFO*** When I first got the car from the previous owner it had no spark, so I bought a new coil. So it has a new coil.
You either have a bad coil (replaced so less likely) or bad ignitor (more likely).
good luck
#9
Ok I ordered the ignitor. I got all new NGK plugs and tested all wires. Again, while out the timing light works when they are near ground, but in the timing light doesnt flash, no spark. Guess ill wait for the ignitor. thanks PAhonda and TexasHonda