Yes both fans work w/the paper clip trick and the fans actually kicked on after plugging the thermoswitch back to the plug when the temp got to the top just before the red zone.

I think I was just being hyper sensative and not wanting to create any more over heat issues after just replacing the head gasket.

Thank you from one poor man to another

Tony

 

Well it sounds like they came on....I'm just a bit worried about the temp getting that high?

Usually they should come on when the gauge gets to half or just above that. Did you replace the t-stat already? Be sure the coolant is full (in rad) and there is not any trapped air - heater set to heat to get the heater core, then open the bleeder as you add coolant.

 

Thank you poorman,

I am going to try to wrap it up today. I have been running straight water w/flush since the new head gasket a week ago. I have maybe 2 hours of run time on the new head gasket so far.

Today I plan to completely flush out the radiator flush and replace w/prestone green all vehicle coolant.

I was running the vehicle w/out the T-stat up until yesterday when I put a new one in. I wanted to flush the system w/out putting the new t-stat in to make sure the system is holding water ok.

So far so good. I was not running the heater initially when I was filling the coolant but rather just opening the bleeder bolt at the T-stat housing. I did run the heater yesterday though and it was heatingup the car pretty good. I hope that don't mean I was overheating the car.

I have noticed a strange thing. If the rad cap is off while the vehicle is warm and running and I open up the bleed bolt at t-stat then the water level rises at the rad opening allowing coolant to spill over out of the rad opening. I don't understand why this only happens when I open the bleeder bolt when the car is warm.

Today I'm hopeing after I change the oil and change the coolant flush for regular atifreez/water mix that the temps will come down a bit and run as it should w/the needle staying in the middle.

Now about the fans not kicking on until I get the needle to the top just before the red zone. Is there any thing you think I should try or look into about this? Oh yeah this might make a difference not sure. Last night when I took my mom for a drive to show her that her car was running good again I noticed the cooling needle go from the top of the guage just before red zone to dropping to the middle and then back to the top again w/in a few seconds.

Thank you,

Tony

 

Again, thinking/hoping you have trpped air. Not trying to start a debate, just going to give you "what works for me" here.

Once you have done "major" cooling system drainage and the system is sealed back up from that. Set the heater to max (open the heater control valve-auto HVAC systems may require turning the car to "on" to open the valve electrically). Open the bleeder. Begin filling the system, pause every now and then, until you get a good stream of coolant coming out of the bleeder. Then close the bleeder. Finish top off-don't forget the overflow tank. Replace the cap and start engine. Watch temp gauge and wait for fans to cycle.....if temp gets too high shut it off, of course. For the fans to cycle, this time of the year, might take 20~30 minutes just sitting in the driveway.

 

Thank you for all your help thus far poorman. My mom thanks you too she just don't know it

Well I filled and bled all the air out of the system per you last post w/the key on, engine off, heater on full blast.

I put water in the radiator until I no longer could hear the bleader valve bubbling then tightened the bleader valve, filled to the cap on radiator, put cap on radiator, turned heater off and turned car on.

The car runs fine and the coolant keeps the car running right where it is suppose to be smack dab in the middle but only when I am driving the car around the block. If I stop and let it sit and idle it starts to overheat w/out the fans kicking on.

The Cooling fans still don't come on when the guage is in the middle. I turned the car off just a little while ago because the temp guage was just under the white line at the top of the guage before the red zone.

I don't get it. Both fans work when I hot wire them from the thermoswitch plug, I swopped the thermoswitch A w/the original and a new one and same thing happens w/both switches.

I think I need to get another thermalswitch plug so that I can check the continuity when the car is at that temperature.

What else could be causing the fans to no come on properly. Where you saying the timer box under the stearing wheel on the left side don't control the cooling fans while the car is running?

Thank you,

Tony

 

The cooling fan would still run IF the timer was bad.......also the fact you jump thermo a, with key on, and they BOTH run confirm the "car on" part of the timer is ok...

Sure sounds like a bad switch....couple of idea's for you.

1) To have use of the car until this is sorted....you could jump the wires. This will make the fans run all the time when the car is on....but IMO that is better than being worried about getting in a traffic jam and the car overheating.
2) Couple of ways to test the switch, do you have a volt meter that will read resistance?
3) Was the one you bought an OE or aftermarket? I'm just wondering, now, if they sold you the ECT and not thermo a? Thermo a OE number is 37773-PT0-004, ~$32 from an online Honda dealer.....if not have the parts store cross-ref this number to be sure.

 

I purchased an aftermarket thermoswitch and it looks exactly like the one that it replaced.

I still need to pull the new aftermarked Temp sending unit and put the OEM back in and see if that is why the temperature is all wacky.

Yeah I guess I could run a jumpered fan configuration until I'm able to get it all hashed out.

 

The engine running cool is much better than running it hot.

Your gauge in the car may be inaccurate due to the gauge or the sending unit.

I think that you can buy an IR thermometer for pretty cheap at places like harbor freight and take the actual reading of the temperature. The coolant should get to about 200F before the fans turn on.

 

Thank you PAhonda. I actually have one of those w/a lazer pointer.

The first image shows where the temp guage is when the fans turn on and the second image shows where the temp guage is when the fans turn off.

 

If you have an IR thermometer, measure the temperature of the coolant when the needle on the gauge starts rising. Verify the actual temperature when the fans kick on.