Hi, just a quick question, can anyone just verify that this is in fact the starter for a 1997 Honda Accord LX Wagon 5-speed.

It has one easy to pull off connector which goes on a pin (not a spade lug, but a rounded lug on a rounded pin), and then there is a connector that has a sort of lock on it so if I were to lift a little on the lock and pull it would come off. Basically, a Honda Accord of that time would have an interlock connector, a solenoid connector, and perhaps one banjoed power connector. I can see two connectors, but no power connector/banjo with a nut/bolt. Can anyone tell where that 3rd one might be and if this is an aftermarket starter. It just doesn't seem to match my 1997 Honda Accord Service manual.

Any help appreciated. The pic I show you is of just under the distributor. I realize the starter has to gear into the flywheel to start the car. My car's starter is fine, I just want test some things anyway.

Thanks.

 

The starter is more towards the bumper. It has two wires going to it. One of the wires is the positive battery cable. Just follow the red battery cable to the starter. It is bolted to the engine block and sits lower than you picture and more towards the front bumper.

If you are not sure what the starter looks like, search for a used starter on ebay for a picture.

 

Ok, I now see a pic in the service manual for M/T (meaning manual transmission as mine is a 5-speed). It shows the black/white wire hooking up to the S terminal where I would do a remote turn-on with the black/white pulled off to disable the clutch interlock for a real start or for testing only (if I have fuel pump turned off/disabled). And I now realize that the black/white wire is on the left side of the starter and the red wire (banjoed) will go on TOP of the starter for an M/T. So I should look for that sort of picture under the hood when I next go out to the car. I guess it really only has 2 connections as you say. So there is an S terminal and a B bolt. Thanks, I should have an easier time next time!

 

Wow, it only took 1 second to find the starter today - nice to know what you're looking for, I had just expected it to be further back in the engine bay, more inline with the rest of the engine. Thanks again. All I can say is, a 1997 Honda Accord LX Wagon starter is easy to get access to.

 

I pulled the S-wire off of it's terminal (it is in fact a spade lug as expected).

I then took my remote starter and clipped it on - it clips on quite well since it has a boot that goes all the way around the starter's S-terminal. This way I did not have to make my own adapter plug to give me more room - something I will do anyway just for ease next time.

So I hooked up the pos/neg terminals of the battery (these had been unhooked due to a short to the left rear tail-light which would drain the battery). I then put the key in the ignition and turned it to on. Then went outside and pulled the remote starter trigger. The engine cranks quite vigourously but no sound of a spark. I would guess that there is no fuel getting to the engine. But there is one thing I did not try with my left-hand. I did not try to reach for the throttle. I just didn't think of it. I'm not sure where that is - I may try that once before pulling either 1) my PGM relay or perhaps 2) my rear spare tire plate out so I can get to the fuel pump 3P = C536 in the manual and do some checks. And perhaps the PGM 7P C430. It could just be a wire harness bitten through by the animals that were living in my car. I certainly hope they haven't gone too near the fuel pump and possibly bitten that all up. I don't want sparks so a wetter day is a better day to work.

I just have to dive and start checking stuff, that's all.

At least my starter and battery are golden.

 

Here's a couple of the pics of the little guys' picnic areas.
Should be a fun one!

I have been delayed in this fix as I cannot find an attachment I need on my vacuum so I will continue pulling all the carpets out and checking things. I've found wires completely broken off - not sure what they're from yet.

Then I should start digging into how to get at the fuel connections - I forgot to look under the spare tire when I put it back after vacuuming.

I won't bother turning on the key and spilling fuel as I've never heard a peep from the fuel pump.

 

Start by unplugging the connector to the fuel pump. There should be an access panel either in the back of the trunk or under the back seat with the power wire going to the fuel pump where you will find the 3-pin connector. The access cover doesn't need to be removed to do the test. I believe the power wire going to the fuel pump is black with a yellow stripe.

Check for 12V going to that wire. When you turn the key to the II position, that wire gets 12V for only two seconds to prime the system, so a 12V test light may be easier to test. You can use the metal bolt nearby as your ground and also try the ground wire at the connector (black color maybe?).

 

I vacuumed some more and started peeling back more cloth - easy to see why the tail-lights don't work properly. Many broken wires, exposed wires, and many of the wires are grounds meaning that there is stuff floating and/or possibly latching up. The exposed wires may be shorting sometimes.

I didn't quite get the middle panel off to begin to get closer to the fuel pump stuff. I took 2 screws out and started pulling on it. It tilts but not quite out. After another huge vacuum job, I just need some rest before I pretty much take all of the cloth out of the car. I could patch the wires but I don't really need to hurry on this. I don't think it will be a hard job unless I cannot get to the fuel pump wiring.

If anyone knows an easy way to get to it, I'd appreciate it, but tomorrow I will be working with a cleaned-out car as I pulled all the stuff out of the car today. It should be easier to work tomorrow, perhaps it won't take long to fix the harnesses with jumpers before I order any new harnesses that I'd like.

I was somewhat inhibited today by the giant amount of stuff in my car and perhaps by the service manual not detailing a procedure to get to the fuel pump. I just cannot boil getting to the fuel pump down to any specific procedure. Perhaps tomorrow I'll see better.

The below pic shows the left-side rear wire damage (leading to the tail-lights). There is similar damage to the right-side.

 

Thanks PAhonda, my car is a station wagon so it does not have a trunk, so perhaps I can just pull the back seat out as you suggest. I'll check for those color wires somewhere back there. I'm almost laughing because if the wires are under the back-seat, I can almost imagine how mangled they will be - could be a humorous looking mess. I may do a continuity test of some sort before looking for the 12V, but I realize looking for voltage is easier. I think it's also a good idea to simply start pulling all of the upholstery and seats even if I am going to dummy up the car to start it by splicing wires as I need to be real sure there is no food left in the car, and I already know that some of the harnesses are almost trash. But who knows, maybe I can hit paydirt and get 12v onto the fuel pump by fixing up a ground or two? Later on.

 

The access panel is in the trunk of the sedan, but the access panel may still be behind the back seat in the wagon. You'll have to look around.

That access panel is for the fuel sending unit and not the fuel pump. I think you actually have to pull the gas tank to access the fuel pump. The wiring for the fuel pump does go through that access panel.