what's up forum. first post!!

got a 1994 accord automatic no power locks/ windows

sooo here's the deal:

my sis got a new car so i started driving her old accord because my daily was acting up and this is economic and more comfortable. car is fine for the most part. until yesterday, when around 2pm and around 90 degrees out, it wouldn't stay on. started fine the day before. it would crank and start fine but then shut off normally. then there's a clicking sound that comes from under the shifter, this happens when i press the brake and or the gas pedal. i waited to the evening when it cooled down outside and the car started just fine, no clicking sound on the pedals. tried it this morning, was fine. drove it to work.

i then remembered this had happened before. the car would intermittently shut off at an intersection or even while driving. it wouldn't start immediately but after a few minutes it did. sometimes it would do the same thing if the car was turned off then back on, like at a gas station or lunch break. pretty annoying and embarrassing. when it does shut off it's a normal shut off, as if you turned the key off. all dash lights were fine, maybe one or two times where there was no lights or crank or at all, a minute later starts normally.

from research here it seems like its the shift interlock solenoid because the car doesn't have any other issues. plus there's signs of a spilled sugary drink on the shifter maybe that damaged it? or maybe theres some sort of relay that is out. i think it's something that is affected by high temps or heat because i've noticed it seems to only happen when it's hot out.

also the AC and heat aren't working. i figured the AC needs to be refilled. but come winter i noticed the heat also doesn't work. just stating incase it's related.

sorry for the long post, just trying to give out as much info. appreciate any input. maybe it's something i can check/do my self or my mechanic. or maybe just have a shop rule it all out.

thanks

 

The interlock switch will prevent starting, but not cause engine to quit.

The ignition switch assy can cause the engine to stop intermittently. Sometimes wiggling the keyswitch can induce the fault to occur to confirm switch assy is problem. Easy fix to install, about 30 mins effort for skilled DiY'r.

Main Fuel Relay is another possibility, but in my experience this never seems to cause engine to stop while driving, but does prevent startup.

Problem is unlikely related to AC/Heat issues.

good luck

 

it gets gas and spark. like you said, just quits. previously when it would happen, it wouldn't even get to the crank as if it had no battery. then eventually it would start fine.

thanks for the tip. i'll start looking into the ignition assy , does sound like it. i doubt its been changed or even looked at. i do use a spare key that is slightly bigger than the original so maybe that plays a part. i'll try to cause it… when not at work, ha

 

As long as the key turns, then worn key is working properly. If you can get the car to stall out by shaking the key, then you verified the electrical portion of the ignition switch.

There are some youtube videos on honda ignition switches that you may want to watch.

 

i don't think i mentioned that the car had just been mildly rear ended recently so maybe that has something to do with this. something loose?

i couldn't get it to stall or start by wiggling the key so maybe it's not the ignition assy?

it's getting worse so i stopped driving it. past two days would be fine in the morning but once i got to work it didn't want to start anymore throughout the day. usually it'll start eventually, but not anymore. i kept trying to start it for almost two hours, until the battery died with no luck. eventually, along with a jump, it would start. at least it's not doing the click-only thing anymore. it cranks but seems like the starter won't engage.

i tried to jump the starter by pos wire to the terminal but it didn't' engage. probably was doing it wrong, i think you have to disconnect the starter first.

i'll try and do some continuity checks over the weekend. i saw in the FSM the ground points so i'm going to check/clean some. maybe a lose ground after the rear-end got hit? i used to get shocked sometimes when opening the door, that eventually went away.

i may just bite the bullet and take it to a shop. they may be able to better source the problem.

 

1. This link has some info. in Section 2 regarding different culprits:

Honda Acura ignition (no spark) troubleshooting tutorial - How to

2. This video is very good on diagnosis if it may be the ignition switch:

 

Maybe that would be best, especially when you say:That doesn't make sense to me. When the starter engages then the engine cranks. The engine may not start, but the starter is "cranking" the engine.

 

interesting… great link, solid info. thanks!!

symptoms that have occurred:

bad igniter:
- Once the car warms up and the igniter gets hot then the car dies. Occasionally it'll start back up or when the car has to sit and cool then it'll repeat the same symptoms.

bad switch:
- Car stalls (clicks are heard) then restarts (clicks are heard), then stalls after driving.
- [haven't checked] No battery voltage at the coil + positive terminal with the key turn to ON.

bad coil:
- It feels like the car just ran out of gas....Slowly bogging down to an eventual shut down or just simply shuts down
- Most often, the car won't fire and usually won't start from then on or will start when cooled down.

bad fuel pump: (maybe)
- Fuel pump cuts out while driving, or while starting or idling, but the fuel pump may come back on while coasting or parking. The ignition warning lights will show up when the engine stops. May happen at a particular rpm or speed.

bad tps: (maybe)
- Fuel pump cuts out while driving, fuel injectors cuts out while driving, starting or idling or won't start and check engine light is on. The check engine light won't come on if the failure is intermittent. Usually happens at a particular throttle position.

bad crank sensor: (maybe)
- Fuel pump cuts out while driving, starting or idling and a click is heard from the main relay.Usually happens at a particular rpm or when ever the distributor shaft begins thrash itself around.

"How to spot a bad ignition circuit - In 10 minutes" not for me; more like 10 hours hehe. looks like i got some work to do, if i have little or no luck with the checks then probably time for the shop.

 

did the checks this weekend. didn't take me as long, luckily everything was checking out. until i found the culprit: fuel pump. i noticed there was no humming when the check engine light was on. i couldn't find the pump, thought it was in the passenger side on this DX but i think that was only the floater. either way it wasn't getting any power. i also couldn't find the relay, once i did (over the gas pedal) i noticed that it was a bit hot to the touch and moving the relay slightly would sorta engage the fuel pump.

i replaced it and now turns on every time. i opened up the mitsuba one and saw that some of the points weren't erect like the others, so maybe these melted?

so far no problems and it feels like it starts better too. would the main fuel relay also cause the car to quit? if the relay had melted points, would that have caused it to die once it overheated?

i probably still have more checks to do since i still suspect the ignition switch because i was initially just getting clicks, although it checked out from the tests and that click only symptom eventually went away. plus when i did the spark test i did have yellow sparks so maybe the main fuel relay was just one of the culprits.

either way, caught one. thanks all for chipping in i really appreciate it!!

 

Yes, a bad main relay will cut power to the pump as you are driving - no fuel and the engine will die.