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1995 accord idle surge.

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  #21  
Old 02-11-2017, 05:05 PM
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HELP.

Where the hell is the damn crank position sensor? I re-aligned the timing. surge remained, not as big a surge it seemed, but still remained. still only getting crank position sensor CEL. Took back apart, can't find it at the crank. Can't find it in the distributor.

I'm about to fill this thing with a bunch of .223 holes.

Plugs look like it's running rich. We had me, pops, and little brother, out there working on it today and we're beating our heads against the wall.

PAhonda What is that thing in the diagram?
 
  #22  
Old 02-11-2017, 06:54 PM
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Its a ground wire
 
  #23  
Old 02-11-2017, 09:48 PM
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Ok I'll check that tomorrow. (the ground) While we were working on it, it blew the upper radiator hose off... Going to also pull the t-stat tomorrow...

Still trying to find the crank sensor. It's still throwing a code for it. I know it's not behind the crank pulley... I pulled all that crap back apart thinking it was but it wasn't. Took the distributor cap off cause someone had suggested it was there, but it didn't jump out at me there either...
 
  #24  
Old 02-12-2017, 04:32 AM
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On a 95 the sensor is inside the dist. Doubt you find the part by its self, most of the time the whole dist is replaced. Of course you want to be sure it is bad by testing it out.
 
  #25  
Old 02-12-2017, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by poorman212
On a 95 the sensor is inside the dist. Doubt you find the part by its self, most of the time the whole dist is replaced. Of course you want to be sure it is bad by testing it out.
It's consistently throwing the code for the crank sensor... I've checked the wiring (will again today when I get back out there) and it seems fine, no nicks or broken wires.

damn distributor is 180bux.... I'll have to see if I can pull one from a junk yard or something...
 
  #26  
Old 02-13-2017, 06:33 PM
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If the wires are good and the resistance is within spec then more than likely the sensor is done.

At a reach, you could pull the cap. rotor and that "dust shield" under the cap and look to see if there is "rust dust" (tech term there) or something like oil under there. Of so you could try to clean it with electrical cleaner - be sure no power is running through there. The sensor is like a "hall effect" type of thing so if there is dirt and that in there it could throw off the readings giving you the code.

Pretty sure this will not solve the "surge" issue.
 
  #27  
Old 02-14-2017, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by poorman212
If the wires are good and the resistance is within spec then more than likely the sensor is done.

At a reach, you could pull the cap. rotor and that "dust shield" under the cap and look to see if there is "rust dust" (tech term there) or something like oil under there. Of so you could try to clean it with electrical cleaner - be sure no power is running through there. The sensor is like a "hall effect" type of thing so if there is dirt and that in there it could throw off the readings giving you the code.

Pretty sure this will not solve the "surge" issue.
So you think the crank sensor wouldn't be causing this?

Crap. I'm outta ideas. I'm getting ever closer to dragging it to some land and using it for target practice...
 
  #28  
Old 02-14-2017, 11:48 AM
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You have a ton of stuff going on at once. I think you should take a step back and check some basics. Please report back your findings.

1. Do a compression test on all four cylinders. Pull the fuel pump fuse. Make sure you push the gas pedal to the floor.

2. Inspect the spark plugs when doing this test.

3. You blew off a radiator hose in a previous post. If you brother has a chemical test for a blown head gasket, you should test for exhaust gas coming through the radiator.
 
  #29  
Old 02-14-2017, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
You have a ton of stuff going on at once. I think you should take a step back and check some basics. Please report back your findings.

1. Do a compression test on all four cylinders. Pull the fuel pump fuse. Make sure you push the gas pedal to the floor.

2. Inspect the spark plugs when doing this test.

3. You blew off a radiator hose in a previous post. If you brother has a chemical test for a blown head gasket, you should test for exhaust gas coming through the radiator.
Compression is 180 across 3 closer to 190 on the last.
I attempted to find the whole "relearn" for the trottle body and can't find the fuses everyone says to pull. there was no fuse labeled as the directions stated... I'll see if I can get out there again.

plugs look like it's running rich. they are the 4 lead plugs which I'm not a huge fan of, but they show dark.

I haven't got the tester, have the liquid tho, but on the previous accord that came back ok and I still had a blown head gasket.I'm thinking it wasn't on securely which is why it popped off. I don't have any other HG symptoms I've noticed. Will check again.
 
  #30  
Old 02-25-2017, 09:11 AM
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Got the distributor all apart. Shaft is a bit rusty... going to clean it up a bit and throw it back in and see if there is any difference... Considering going to a junk yard to try to find a replacement. But dunno I'm still no closer to having a direction to go on this damn thing. Also going to go look at a 600 stratus later today. Gotta have a 2nd car going, my poor truck is eating fuel.
 


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