It might flash by most recent first?

Since a code 18 is not listed, I was wondering if you had a code 10 and 8. A code 18 would have no pause between the long flash and the short ones. It can't hurt to recheck.

Removing the ECU is pretty simple. I think there are four bolts holding the plate on. Then there are four bolts for the TCU and four for the ECU. The ECU is bolted closest to the passenger door. The TCU is closer to the center console. Since heat is working on the outside, this could be the ECU.

All signs point towards the ECU being the problem.

I asked this early on, but you never answered. I don't understand what wire you pulled for the fuel pump? Why did you pull this wire? And where was is?

 

I pulled the power wire off at the fuel pump connector, so there would be no chance of it coming on while I played the radio and changed the fuel filter. I realized later that I had the key turned to start so it may have been trying send power to the pump while I was working on it. The delay in the pump coming on started after that but seemed to come on gradually. First few times fine, then it started taking longer and longer before the pump would come on, then it quit coming on at all.
I suppose it could be a coincidence but kinda strange

 

Did you just unplug the electrical connector in the trunk? Or did you remove one wire from the electrical connector? What was the wire color? Is the connector in the trunk the one you messed with? I'm just trying to figure out if this could have caused your problem.

For future reference, just remove the fuel pump fuse to prevent the pump from working.

 

I unplugged the wire in the trunk.
I double checked the codes and it does appear to be a 10, 8, 13, & 14, the time gap between 10 & 8 is bigger than the others in the 13 & 14.

 

It isn't important, but I was asking if you pulled one wire out of the harness, or did you unplug the electrical connector in the trunk.

Regardless, messing with that wiring did not cause your problem.

Your problem is either a bad TCU or ECU.

 

thanks, i unplugged the whole connector in the trunk, as if I was unplugging the fuel pump to replace it

 

This many sensor codes suggests a problem w/ ECU.

Code 8 can be easily checked by measuring for normal resistance of sensor (700-1300 ohms), first at distributor connector, and if OK, again at ECU connector. If good at both locations, the ECU is faulty. I had similar experience for code 9 on my 94 EX.

Used ECU's are readily available via ebay or car-part.com (local salvage yard near your zip code). It should cost < $50.

good luck

 

OK , I haven't found the replacement ECU yet but I know that will fix it.
I got the panel covering them off and unbolted the ECU and TCU. I tried letting them dry with doors open to see if it was humidity related, no luck, so I took the ECU off, took it inside and put it in a plastic bag and blew a hair dryer in (on low heat) to warm it for about five minutes. Took it out side, plugged it in and it cranked.
I drove it a while, as soon as I turned it off I tried to crank it, no luck.
The computer has to be hot to the touch to work. Weird.

 

A crack in a component may close when heated sufficiently, and open as it cools.

good luck

 

OK, changed the ECU, working fine, got one for 45 dollars on ebay. Changed it a few weeks ago.

I already have other problems now, but I'll make a new post for that.

Thanks again to all who offered advice.