Guys,

This is the second time that we've had this issue in the last couple of months. I replaced the ignition switch a few months ago and since then, everything has been fine.

Now, it's doing the same thing. Crank but no fire.

No check engine light is on..

Could it be the ignition switch again this soon?

How do I check to make sure the engine is getting fuel?

What about spark?

Is there any relays or anything that are common in going bad?

Thank you so much for any advice,

Donnie

 

Got any old spark plugs? You can put a plug into one of the sparkplug wires & lay it on a good engine-ground then crank the starter. A better way is to use a timing light if you have one.

A common problem is the main relay failing to switch on the fuel pump. All noisemakers turned off, turn the key to ON but don't immediately turn to START. Listen for the fuelpump to run for 2 seconds then turn off. If it runs, then your main relay (along with the pump itself) is OK.

The definitive way to check the fuel system is measure the fuel pressure while trying to start. But even that doesn't prove the injectors are firing.

One way is to pull a sparkplug right after trying to start it. Smell gasoline?

 

Jim,

Thank you so much for the suggestions. I will check it out this evening and see what I can figure out...

I'll try and listen for that relay and then I'll also put the paper clip in the little connector and see if there are any CEL's coming up...

And yes, I do have some old plugs...I'll go right on down the list and check everything and report back.

Thank you again so much for the help,

Donnie

P.S. Nice WRX, I sell the new ones in northern CA. That's a nice car you go there. I miss the sedan STI still...

 

Okay, I went out and listened for the fuel pump. Check

Checked for spark, it's there.

Checked the CEL lights, the check engine light just stayed on and didn't blink at all when I stuck the paper clip in the little two wire connector up under the glove box.

The SRS light did blink once slow. But it doesn't ever come on when driving...


Here's two weird things though...

When I replaced the ignition switch about 2-3 months ago, first it wouldn't do anything at all(just crank and crank), then it would barely get a little cough but would never quite fire up.

When I just went back out and tried again, it's doing the exact same thing...? It will almost fire but just won't.

Then the other weird thing, there was oil in the spark plug hole...it was completely doused. I found the DIY and I'm going to get the seals for it this week and get those put on...but this shouldn't cause it to just suddenly not start right?

There has been oil in that plug hole for a year or so. I just hadn't found this forum and didn't realize there was such an easy fix...

The oil is fresh and changed every 3000. Car is maintained well...


Does it sound like it's just another ignition switch and it's just coincidental that the oem ignition switch lasted 165K miles and this one went out is less than 5K miles?

Thanks,

Donnie

 

Sometimes a weak spark can fool you into thinking that you have a good spark.

If you have a timing light, hook it up to one wire at a time and see if you have enough spark to flash the timing light. Let us know what you find.

Also, are the maintenance items up to date like the distributor cap, distributor rotor, spark plugs (only use NGK V-power that are made for your car), air filter?

 

PA,

Thanks so much. I do have a timing light but it's about 20 miles away so I'll have to get out there and get it when my other car gets home.

I'll go ahead and replace the distributor cap and coil wire cause there is a little bit of corrosion underneath the connection between the two at the distributor cap.

The air filter is good and I may not have NGK's in it right now but it has been running fine with these plugs for the last 2 years...should I really swap them or start with the other stuff first?

Thanks again,

Donnie

 

CEL staying on solid when you jumpered the SCS connector means there's no error codes stored.

It IS strange for the ignition switch to go bad this quick, but stranger things have happened. With a voltmeter, you can check it. Backprobe the distributor wiring harness connection at the power wire - I think it's black & yellow?? It should get battery voltage when the ignition switch is at ON and at START. One possibility is that it has power during cranking, but then it doesn't have power when you release the key to the ON position.

Corrosion is pretty normal at the posts on the underside of the distributor cap. You can probably scrape it off with a knife, or go ahead & get a new one just to rule that out.

PA, do you know the acceptable resistance across the distributor rotor??

Oil in the sparkplug tubes will allow the spark to short across to ground, but only for the one with oil. All 4 like that?? The engine should start & run (poorly) on 3 cylinders. What did the firing tip look like? You were checking for fuel after cranking...

 

Thank you again for all of the help and suggestions.

I'm at work now today but I will check all of the above tonight when I get home.

I'll check the voltage at the distributor and then just go ahead and get a new cap and coil wire just to be safe.

I do not know the acceptable resistance across the rotor? How do I check?

Only one cylinder has oil in the spark plug hole...it's the third over from the right when looking towards the back of the car.

I did check for fuel after cranking and smelled it pretty strong. I could also hear the fuel pump turning on..

Probably just an unlucky situation where the ignition switch went bad twice in less than 6 months. I found the receipt an we bought it in October.

Where do I get those new seals for the valve covers? Is it a dealer only item or would an autozone/kragen have em'?

Thanks again,

Donnie

 

I never saw a resistance range for the rotor in the shop manual.

Is your car an EX, LX, or DX?

The maintenance interval for the accord is 2 years or 40K miles on spark plugs, so you are due. The plug you want to get is NGK part number ZFR5F-11. They will cost you ~$6 TOTAL at any parts store. Plugs are a maintenance item that can wear out. Replacing them will eliminate a cause of the starting problem. Inspect the distributor cap and rotor edge for excessive wear, and the spark plug wires for cracks in the insulation.

You can pick up a complete Fel-Pro valve cover gasket set for ~$20 at most parts stores. I used that brand on my car and had no problems with the quality. The set will include seal between the cover and the head, the VC bolt grommets, and the upper tube seals. Get some Permatex RTV Grey, because you will need some for the base of the two archs (see pic below).

 

PA,

Thanks so much for this post! I'll get all of the above this weekend, it's due anyway like you said. And the car is an LX model.

I'll use the NGK's this time and make sure and replace those gaskets/upper tube seals. I always have some RTV, black should work fine right?

Also, I'll let you guys know later tonight if it's actually getting power to the distributor cap with the key position in (on and start).

12 volt test light will work fine or do I need to use a DMM?

thanks,

Donnie