My 1996 Accord LX (202K miles) is running hot after about 15 miles but only when I getinto stop and go traffic. I replaced the radiator a few months back as well as hoses and t-stat, all OEM.

The radiator fan was not kicking on at all so I replaced it tonight and the condensor fan works sometimes. I thought the radiator fan would fix the problem but it now only works when I cut on the AC. I replaced the switch on top of the t-stat cover with what Napa sold me as a Cooling fan switch. This did not fix the problem because the radiator fan will still not cut on unless I turn on the AC.

Bottom line, the radiator fan will not kick on after engine reaches operating temperature.

Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks!!

 

First check for 12V to the fan motor. If no voltage, check radiator fan fuses (No. 21 in under hood fuse box), and radiator fan relay. If these are OK, wiring or connector is faulty.

Are you sure the thermoswitch A you replaced was correct temperature rating (93C/199F)? The other thermoswitch B may be identical but has a 106C/223F rating.

good luck

 

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Hey WOW,I got a link to work finally.....[sm=happy046.gif]


See if this schematic helps you. I seem to remember/think the Green wire from the control module can be grounded with the key on, and fans should run and that proves out the whole circuit.

 

How do you check the relay to see if it is faulty? I am not sure on the switch. It has 93/88 as well as FAE, 36440 stamped on the side of it.

I am new to all of this so thank you so much for the help.

 

Well when the temp gauge shows about 1/2 way you should have continuity thru that switch.
Also you can unplug the switch,[at the Tstat housing]stick a jumper/paper clip into the plug teminals and turn on the key....the fans should run, and putting the jumper in and out will make the relay in the underhood fuse box CLICK.

 

Hondadude, Thank you for your help/suggestions. I jumped the switch on top of the t-stat, the radiator fan cuts on and I get the clicking sound from the relay.

I read some other stuff in the DIY section related to overheating. My upper radiator hose is relatively warm but the lower hose is not warm at all. Does this lead me to the t-stat itself? I just replaced it with an OEM t-stat less than 6 months ago. I don't want to have to check the t-stat due to the mess and fluid loss but if these are the symptoms of a faulty t-stat then I will have to do so.

Also, the DIY said if the t-stat is stuck closed the engine would overheat rather quickly. I drove the care to work (round trip 50miles) today and the temp gauge did not budge from normal but I did run the heater w/AC engaged all the way.

Again, thank you for all your help.

UPDATE: After 20 plus mile commute into work this morning both upper and lower radiator hoses were hot. Temperature gauge did not move from normal. I will keep checking but I still do not think the radiator fan is kicking on for cooling purposes. Would a faulty condenser fan affect the radiator fan? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!!

 

“I jumped the switch on top of the t-stat, the radiator fan cuts on and I get the clicking sound from the relay.” You now have eliminated all but the fan switch (sensor) you just jumped and coolant flow around this sensor. My 1995 when the head gasket blew would not overheat unless it idled for an hour but the fans did not kick on unless I shut the engine off. I guess the air getting into the cooling system from the cylinder prevent coolant flow around the sensor.

If you follow Hondadude’s suggestion you will down to two answers “Well when the temp gauge shows about 1/2 way you should have continuity thru that switch.”

Please do the test and post what you find. Either the switch is bad, wrong part, or the coolant flow is not getting the switch up to temperature.

I have seen Thermostats give the same problems you have. Not letting enough coolant flow to activate the switch and just open enough that the vehicle overheats sometimes. Air in the system would give the same Problem. Did you bleed the system?

 

Please be more specific about what test hondadude suggested that you want me to try. My temperature gauge typically does not reach the half way point unless I try to make it run hot. It only runs hot when I am traveling home and after about 15 miles I get into stop and go traffic. I plan on trying another switch at some point.

I replaced the t-stat a few months back with an OEM part but I suppose it could be faulty. I will try to test the actual t-statwhen I get some time to do so and replace if necessary.

Yes, I bled the system through the bleeder bolt which is on the driver's side of the t-stat housing. When I loosened it up I had constant coolant flow with no bubbles so I figured no air.

As you can tell, I am struggling to find a solution to an intermittent problem. It would be so much easier if it were a constant issue.