I have a '94 Accord LX Auto that had a broken valve spring. I found the valve spring retainer and one of the two valve spring "keepers" next to the broken spring. There is a hole in the head next to where the valve with the broken spring. Is it the oil return that goes to the oil pan? If the keeper fell down that hole and is in my oil pan, do I need to bother with getting it out? Won't it stay there happily ever after?

Pictures of the engine are here:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=29452

 

I was wondering today how you were doing on your Honda. I think the answer is a maybe. If it is in one piece it will be too big to pass through the oil pump screen and get into the pump. It could clog an oil passage on the way down to the pan. I would drain the oil and see if it comes out and if not try a flexible magnet through the drain plug hole.

 

My goal is to have the head off this weekend. I had to order a crank pulley removal tool and I got that yesterday, so I'm ready to go at it again. The keeper is a little smaller than your pinky fingernail so I'm thinking it won't pass through the oil intake screen (but I've only seen the screen on other engines...)

 

I wish I had a better answer. I have taken apart old engines that had the plastic distributors gear failed at one time only to find the old one in the gunk at the bottom of the pan. If the keeper is in one piece it is too big for the pickup screen. I think you are going to recover it after taking the head off.

 

Well, got the head off today. Only one broken exhaust manifold stud (I think it was broken before I started, it literally fell off in my wrench.) Anyway, they can fix that when it take the head in.

How hard to do it the crankshaft oil seal? I've read while I'm in there I should change the timing/balancer belts, water pump, and the cam shaft oil seal.

 

I had the most trouble replacing the balance shaft seal as it is right up against the frame. I used some PVC fittings to make a tool and one of the PVC parts was a cap that I cut a hole in so I cold used the sprocket bolt and washer to draw it on. I wanted something close to the size of the crank and but thick enough to provide a stop when the seal was flush. A tech at the Honda dealer said he just pushes it in with his thumbs with some silicone on the seal but I failed to ask if he meant the gasket sealer or spray silicone. There is a retainer that holds the seal from coming out and your Accord may not have it. It was a recall on my 1995 but should be on your 94 also.
On the crank I think I just drilled a small hole in the seal and pulled it out with mechanics pick and taped in the new seal with the wood handle of a hammer. They sell seal installing tools also.

Did you find the keeper?
My 1995 Accord had one of the end exhaust manifold studs broken off from the factory. You’re doing pretty much the same job I did about this time last year.

For my 95 there was an updated oil restrictor which cut down on the valve train noise. It is in the block in the center back where the head bolts thread into.

 

Update:
Took the head in to be fixed and told them to replace the valve/spring in cyl 1 and look at cyl 4 since it had to compression. Got the head back and they replaced the valve/spring, exhaust stud, and milled the head flat. They said cyl 4 was ok.... I thought it was still a problem so I bought a valve spring compressor, some grinding compound, and lapped the valves in cyl 4. It must have helped because when I got everything back together, the compression on all cylinders was good. Tried to start it and it fired right up!

The only thing now I'm concerned about is a slight shudder around 1500 RPMs. It idles fine and goes to higher RPMs fine, just as you tip in to the throttle..... I checked the timing and that was ok. The only other thing that I've never done before was set the valve lash. I did it per the FSM, but could that have anything to do with it?

P.S. I never did find the other keeper... I changed the oil, fished around through the oil drain hole with a magnet and nothing. Where ever it is, I hope it stays there!

Thanks-

 

What is a FSM. I will guess S is service and M is manual. If you adjusted the valves on the low point on the cam profile and used the correct size feeler blades that should be fine. The sticker under the hood is in metric .

 

FSM is Factory Service Manual. I don't see why the valve adjustment who only effect around 1500 RPM... I've also had the check engine light come on twice now, but when I key off and back on, the light is off... Will the fault stay in the ECU when the light is off so I can retrieve it?

 

Yes you should have a code stored. How did I miss Factory for F.