2000 accord check engine light P1457
#1
2000 accord check engine light P1457
i have a problem with my 2000 Honda accord DX 4cy.
My check engine light when on right before i went to get my sticker done on it.
The check engine light code comes back with P1457.
I hook it up to diagnose machine and it came back with this
" Evap emission system leak system leak detected (control canister system)
Probable cause
1.Loose fuel cap.
2.Vapor canister saturated
3.Failed vent solenoid
4.Failed purge solenoid"
Today i already change the fuel cap. and did the reset on the ecu. and the light when off. Hopefully it will stay off.
But if the check engine light comes back on,
Where can i find the canister and the solenoid on the engine? anyone have pictures?
How can i test them?
What would the the symptom's be if they were bad?
Are the parts expensive?
What would be your next part to check/repair?
Is there anything else i should check??
thanks to all for the help
My check engine light when on right before i went to get my sticker done on it.
The check engine light code comes back with P1457.
I hook it up to diagnose machine and it came back with this
" Evap emission system leak system leak detected (control canister system)
Probable cause
1.Loose fuel cap.
2.Vapor canister saturated
3.Failed vent solenoid
4.Failed purge solenoid"
Today i already change the fuel cap. and did the reset on the ecu. and the light when off. Hopefully it will stay off.
But if the check engine light comes back on,
Where can i find the canister and the solenoid on the engine? anyone have pictures?
How can i test them?
What would the the symptom's be if they were bad?
Are the parts expensive?
What would be your next part to check/repair?
Is there anything else i should check??
thanks to all for the help
#4
The vent shut valve usually is the culprit. I think P1456 is for the gas cap.
If your check engine light returns, you may want to replace this. It wasn't too bad of DIY when I helped my friend with this. I removed the EVAP canister to change the vent shut valve. The assembly is near the rear driver's side tire.
Copy and paste the link below to read a TSB on this problem.
hondaaccordforum.com/forum/general-tech-help-7/p1457-14390/
If your check engine light returns, you may want to replace this. It wasn't too bad of DIY when I helped my friend with this. I removed the EVAP canister to change the vent shut valve. The assembly is near the rear driver's side tire.
Copy and paste the link below to read a TSB on this problem.
hondaaccordforum.com/forum/general-tech-help-7/p1457-14390/
#5
The vent shut valve usually is the culprit. I think P1456 is for the gas cap.
If your check engine light returns, you may want to replace this. It wasn't too bad of DIY when I helped my friend with this. I removed the EVAP canister to change the vent shut valve. The assembly is near the rear driver's side tire.
Copy and paste the link below to read a TSB on this problem.
If your check engine light returns, you may want to replace this. It wasn't too bad of DIY when I helped my friend with this. I removed the EVAP canister to change the vent shut valve. The assembly is near the rear driver's side tire.
Copy and paste the link below to read a TSB on this problem.
Your saying the valve is not in the engine bay but under/ rear of the car? under the trunk?
is the vent shut valve expensive?
how does it look like?
is there anyway to test?
thank for the help
#6
Your saying the valve is not in the engine bay but under/ rear of the car? under the trunk? (Yes)
is the vent shut valve expensive? (around $50 from the dealership)
how does it look like? (It is roughly about the size of a tennis ball)
is there anyway to test? (Yes, unplug it and supply 12V and ground to the valve. You should hear it click). It is likely frozen or maybe partially frozen.
To replace, you just have to unplug it and remove two philips head bolts (or they may have been screws). You will find that the bolts will be pretty corroded and stuck in place. There is not a lot of room to access. I removed the whole EVAP canister, then removed the screws holding it in place.
is the vent shut valve expensive? (around $50 from the dealership)
how does it look like? (It is roughly about the size of a tennis ball)
is there anyway to test? (Yes, unplug it and supply 12V and ground to the valve. You should hear it click). It is likely frozen or maybe partially frozen.
To replace, you just have to unplug it and remove two philips head bolts (or they may have been screws). You will find that the bolts will be pretty corroded and stuck in place. There is not a lot of room to access. I removed the whole EVAP canister, then removed the screws holding it in place.
#7
If the ONE bolt is rusted in you can drill it out then attach the purge valve with zip ties. If BOTH bolts are rusted in then you will need an entire canister. You can buy the purge valve and canister from aftermarket companies. The purge valve is under the drive side rear seat. Get on all fours and look under the car.
I had P1457 and replaced the purge valve. Had to drill one bolt out and used a zip tie. Check engine light is off now. Dorman # 911752 . Standard # CP414
I had P1457 and replaced the purge valve. Had to drill one bolt out and used a zip tie. Check engine light is off now. Dorman # 911752 . Standard # CP414
#8
The EVAP purge valve is bolted onto the intake manifold. A failed purge valve can set P1457.
But a more common failure is the EVAP vent-shut valve. That one is attached to the EVAP canister below the left-rear seat. Just inboard of the rocker panels. It gets hit by salty slush during the winter and it more likely to be corroded. Still, test em both to see which is broken. There's a few more things that can possibly cause P1457 too, if both of those valves are OK.
But a more common failure is the EVAP vent-shut valve. That one is attached to the EVAP canister below the left-rear seat. Just inboard of the rocker panels. It gets hit by salty slush during the winter and it more likely to be corroded. Still, test em both to see which is broken. There's a few more things that can possibly cause P1457 too, if both of those valves are OK.
#9
A web site you might want to bookmark is : HondaAutomotiveParts.com
The fuel system Diagram for your car: Honda Automotive Parts
It helps to know wat and where you need to look to find things. There is a thread here that tells you how to check some of the possible components so you are not just spending money in hopes of fixing the problem.
The fuel system Diagram for your car: Honda Automotive Parts
It helps to know wat and where you need to look to find things. There is a thread here that tells you how to check some of the possible components so you are not just spending money in hopes of fixing the problem.
Last edited by LS-300; 04-13-2012 at 09:30 AM. Reason: spelling
#10
Impact of P1457
HI,
I got the code P1457 for my 2000 honda accord. I went to the dealer, it came as canister related problem. He fixed it and after 2 weeks check engine light came again with same code. Dealer fixed it and said my car is rusted and thats why its causing problems with other valves.
Now after 1 month check engine light is on with same code. I want to know, What is the impact of this code? Dealer let me drive this car for a week without repair (as part was not available). But I want to know whether its necessary to get this repaired or we can survive with this code on (and not much impact on car)?
Thanks
sutturka
I got the code P1457 for my 2000 honda accord. I went to the dealer, it came as canister related problem. He fixed it and after 2 weeks check engine light came again with same code. Dealer fixed it and said my car is rusted and thats why its causing problems with other valves.
Now after 1 month check engine light is on with same code. I want to know, What is the impact of this code? Dealer let me drive this car for a week without repair (as part was not available). But I want to know whether its necessary to get this repaired or we can survive with this code on (and not much impact on car)?
Thanks
sutturka