So I have had this car for a week , I knew something was wrong with it , with a constant dead battery .. Located the issue to the alternator draining the battery along with the alternator not turning on when the car is running .
I automatically knew the gate was not being commanded in the alternator to turn the reg on !


I found that the prior owner jumped a constant 12v to that wire on the alternator (black/yellow) .. he hid it pretty well too .. I must say .. but I had to investigate further ..
the alt puts out 14.3 v .. that's good .. Battery will sit at 12.9 not running .. that's good ..
fuse is good . 0.1 ohms , that's good


No power to fuse port .. that's bad .. with ignition on .. also tried with car running .. Im stumped ..

2002 honda accord ex , v6 , no mods


What to look at next ? Where do I go ? Not a lot of info on the internet regarding this issue .. Please help .

 

I am a little confused as to which fuse there is no power with car running. If the alternator is working but not charging the system then I would be looking into a possible failure with the ELD unit.

 

Hi turtle , the alternator works .. But with out the ignition signal saying " Hey Im starting up , time to turn on and charge the battery" the alternator does not charge the battery unless there is a complete 12v circuit .

The fuse in question is #5 on the drivers side .. it controls the alternator signal from ignition, and that terminal is dead , there is no power to that fuse , the fuse is good, i tested the fuse socket and its dead. its a 7.5 amp fuse .

My question is what should I do to restore that circuit ? Do i need a ignition harness ? Can I jump that fuse for the ignition off of something else that only activates during ignition ?

there is a 4 wire pigtail on the alternator , the black /yellow wire is dead .. it needs 12volts to turn the alternator on .. Im trying to fix this without rigging the car up to a toggle or jumping off of something else .. like the prior owner did off the wiper motor(turned on the wipers with his bad fix it killed the car)

besides that .. I can run the car no issues, but im jumping the power off of the fuse box . I dont believe its the eld .. I have no issues with anything else but the signal to the alternator .. well the srs light is on and wont reset .. but thats for another day..

 

Driver's side dash Fuse No. 6 (15A) and the Blk/Yel (IG) wire supplies the ignition input that turns on the alternator/regulator assembly.

You want to check Fuse No. 6 instead.

If you are not getting power at Fuse No. 6, then you would test the ignition switch. The ignition switch has a 6-P harness connector that plugs into the driver's under-dash fuse box.

 

HI redbull ,I seen your other post to someone on 9/13/14 and its the same issue as that guy , but my issue is farther up .. I will look into that tomorrow when there is some light out .. Im thinking its a bad connection at the connector , but if I remember right , I checked all the fuses , but I dont think I checked the voltage for number 6 ... I know number 5 is dead and or a blank ... I appreciate the input and wil report back with my findings.. thanks a bunch ..

 

Driver's dash Fuse No. 6, which feeds the Blk/Yel wire to the alternator, only gets power with the ignition switch in ON or START. The power comes through the ignition switch in ON or START, to the driver's dash fuse box (through Fuse No. 6), and then to the alternator.

Driver's dash Fuse No. 5 (7.5A) is only used for DRL for Canadian models.

Report back what you find.

 

Hi Redbull , so I did what you asked .. fuse number 6 has battery voltage on ignition .. Both sides of the fuse .. So I looked at the eld , and I see a blk/yellow wire coming out of some coil its looks like in the fuse panel under the hood , and that had battery voltage .. so I disconnected my wire .. and the car throws the codes p0135 and p0758 , but when I have my battery voltage applied to that blk and yellow wire off my remote wire ( wire I installled ) no codes .. alt is charging .. Im stumped .. fixed the srs light tho .. YAY !

 

Although I have kind of idea of what you may be talking about, can you take some pictures of the wires you're talking about and post them?

We probably can resolve this; but, I need more info.

 

I think these pictures uploaded . In the pictures you see my red wire coming from the battery pos side of the fuse block under the hood ... The brown thing next to it has car voltage with ignition on it also has the black and yellow striped wire .. in one picture you see my red wire tied into the black and yellow striped wire on the alternator pig tail .. and the other pic is how I have my wire ran .

 

Some info. first:

With the ignition in ON or START, driver's fuse no. 6 feeds many components via various separate Blk/Yel wires and connectors.

• EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve
• EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve
• Radiator Fan Control Module
• Gauge Assembly
• Cruise Control/TSC switch
• Primary HO2
• PCM
• Alternator
• EVAP Canister Purge Valve
• Engine Mount Control Solenoid Valve
• Secondary HO2
• ELD

If the only issue is no power on the Blk/Yel wire to the alternator (and not any of the other components listed), then there is an open (break) in the Blk/Yel wire leading to the alternator.

The open may be at Connector C108 (a 20-P orange connector, located behind the blower unit, taped to harness) or one of the Blk/Yel wires after Connector C108 that leads back out through the firewall to the engine bay and to the alternator. (It probably is not worth trying to find the open (break) there, as it would be time consuming and difficult to access there.)

Unless you find the open (break) in the Blk/Yel wire that goes to the alternator, you may just have to reconnect a power source like how the previous owner may have done and had it charging.

Connector C104 (a 10-P gray connector, located at the right side of the engine compartment), is where one of the Blk/Yel wires from Fuse No. 6 feeds; before going to Connector C108 and back out through another Blk/Yel wire to the alternator. If you wanted to, connecting the Blk/Yel wire from the alternator into a splice into the Blk/Yel wire that is at terminal no. 8 of Connector C104 may work.