I am overwhelmed by your knowledge .. I really appreciate the pics , and suggestions !!!! Thats why you are the Super moderator . I have a hunch that connection in the left rear engine compartment may be the way to go in this adventure ... I really appreciate the help , and will report to you in the morning with a update of whats going on with this car !! Thanks a bunch ..

 

Well , Redbull , I think I can say that I officially can put this thread to rest , I rewired the black and yellow wire to the terminal port number 8 , tested it repeatedly for ignition signal , over and over and it was a success . I measured voltage to make sure while the car was off it was not a draw on the battery . I will know a definite on that in the morning , but it was less than a amp draw. I really appreciate the help and the schematics !!! thanks a bunch .

 

Good to hear and thanks for reporting back.

Just to clarify my understanding, you re-wired the Blk/Yel wire from the alternator to terminal no. 8 of Connector C104 and things seem to be working properly; correct?

 

That is correct , I pulled the clip and tested for voltage to make sure that wire was functioning correctly with the ignition switch ,and sure enough it was , so i reran my wire on the black and yellow and tied it in with that black and yellow on that clip , tested and it is functioning correctly .

 

Im Back from the future !!!! So Make a long story short , 600 miles since my repair i made on this vehicle adding a external wire to the alternator ...

SO last night I was traveling down the road and the vehicle shuts off , completely ...

battery did not discharge , but i coasted into a parking lot ... The car would not restart.. The reason I am reposting in this section is , I left a 12v lead coming out off the pdm (fuse block ) under the hood incase my prior repair didnt work ..

Well low and behold it stopped working , killing the car ... I ended up stripping the 2 wires ad tieing them in together to recreate that 12v my car so desperately needed .

so low and behold the car will not run with out that 12v battery wire again to the alternator to compensate for the bad wire in the harness ...

any more suggestions ? Maybe it was one of my connections , I will have to diagnose it here in the next hour so please bare with me ... I wanted to get this up and out before it was too late in the day ..

 

With the wiring harness returned to the stock setup, check for 12V on the blk/yel wire at the alternator and at the ELD unit. Also check for 12V on the wht/blu wire at the alternator. The key will need to be in the II position when doing this testing.

Does this vehicle have an aftermarket security system installed? Or remnants of one installed previously? The OEM wiring harness under the dash is organized, so take a look under the dash around the steering wheel to see if any wiring looks out of place.

 

Hi there , no aftermarket alarm , But I did find 3 solder joint cracked on the main relay board , that I will address . The other thing Im questioing is a immobilizer , it has one , but I dont know how to check how good the key is ..

 

1. Is the alternator charging?

a. At the alternator's connector plug, disconnect the plug. Then test if there is voltage (battery power ~ 12 volts) at the Blk/Yel wire with the ignition switch in ON or START.

As previously posted at the start of this thread the Blk/Yel wire supplies the ignition input that turns on the alternator/regulator assembly. If there is no, low, or intermittent voltage coming through the Blk/Yel wire to the alternator, the alternator will not charge or have problems charging.

b. If there is ~ 12 volt at the Blk/Yel wire from the first test, then test the voltage at the alternator output cable (black cable) at the under-hood fuse box (T101). This alternator cable supplies current to the battery.

Check the voltage with it idling, then raise the engine speed to 2,000 rpm and hold it there, and see if the voltage increases.

2. There may not be an issue with the Immobilizer System. Is the Immobilizer System Indicator on the dash blinking and the car not starting?

When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the Immobilizer System indicator should come on for a few seconds, then go out. If it is blinking, then it may be due to a weak battery or the Immobilizer System is not recognizing the key transponder.

This is a description of the Immobilizer System:

The immobilizer system consists of the ignition key, immobilizer receiver unit, immobilizer indicator light, PGM-FI main relay, fuel pump, and the PCM or ECM.

With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), the immobilizer receiver unit and the PCM or ECM receive an “ignition on” signal through fuse 46 and the PGM-FI main relay. The PCM or ECM then sends power to the ignition key transponder through the immobilizer receiver unit. The transponder then sends a coded signal back to the PCM or ECM through the receiver. If the signal is correct, the PCM or ECM will enable the car’s fuel supply system by grounding the PGM-FI main relay via the Grn/Yel wire.

There are various test that can be done; but, you may not have an Immobilizer issue.

You can refer to my post #39 in this other thread if you wanted to test:
99 accord would not start.

 

Hi RedBull , So a update of what I have found and I have done .

I replaced the main ignition relay , under the dash , I pulled the old relay and found that it had a burn and had a couple of seperated solder joints , I wasnt going to fix it due to its condition , so I bought a new one ..

I also purchased a new transponder key at walmart 34.00 dollars !! YAY

I checked my fuses , I still have ignition and battery voltage at fuse number 6
BUT I only have 2.2 volts now on my black wire / yellow stripped when I should have battery voltage on ignition .. Now the vehicle is more impaired because the rest of that components on that wire needs that voltage .

The alternator is still doing what it needs to do when I hook my 12volt battery wire up to the black and yellow wire .. But the rest of the circuit is now dependent of that 12v wire ..

What happened was , I put 700 miles on the car since the last fix ... I was driving to the store , and 5 miles down the road , all the guage lights flickered on and off and the motor stalled and picked back up and finally , it just all went dead .. all my lights work , radio , heat , interior stuff like windows ect .. fine ..

car wouldnt start , just cranked , I stripped my 12v lead I had left and hooked it up , and it started .. But like I said in prior post , I was able to run the car without that lead , it was just a charging issue , now the car will NOT run with out that lead supplying power to all the major components on the that circuit , trans , fuel pump , traction control, abs etc etc .. I tested all the fuses I could . I checked harnesses making sure they were tight . I just dont know what to do or where to go now ...

 

Some of the wiring may have been damaged after the splicing. Check the connector terminal and wire. You may have to splice a new section of wire where the damage is.

At the interior driver's side fuse box, the Blk/Yel wire coming Fuse No. 6 to those connectors is at a 20P harness connector at the front of the fuse box, terminal no. 13. You can backprobe for 12V there. Do not pierce the wire when backprobing.

If you can repair the area where you splice in to restore 12 volts, then you may want to run a new power wire separately for the alternator IG wire.