Hi yall. sorry that this has to be my first post, but alas i can't figure it out. it's sitting at the shop right now and im hoping someone has an idea

2002 4 cylinder sedan a/t. i purchased this car used with 213k miles, and the transmission was replaced recently (within 50k miles). i installed a magnefine filter and a b&m transmission cooler the first week (about a month and 2k miles ago) i got the car as a preventative measure to the common transmission issues.

i was driving down the freeway at about 75 mph and then all of a sudden it felt as if the transmission disengaged, car would rev but not accelerate. pulled over to the shoulder to a complete stop, car would roll slightly in d but when i hit the accelerator it would just rev, same in reverse, 1, 2, and 3. then i turned the car off and it wouldn't start again. wouldn't crank but you can hear the fuel pump and starter turn.

had the car towed to my mechanic, and he thought it may have been the timing belt snapped but we pulled the covers and belt is still intact and looking quite new. they're going to look at the starter, but that's pretty much where i stand right now.

i thought it may be a transmission issue, but i wouldn't think that would cause the car not to start. also, i haven't had any slippage or any issues at all with the transmission up to this point. from what i've read, it seems all the transmission issues are slowly occurring and not sudden like this. i also wouldn't think the starter would cause the revving issue.

any ideas what the issue may be? anyone have anything similar?

thanks in advance!

 

Have you checked ATF level. Work to add a cooling system introduces possibility of a failed hose connection allowing ATF to pump out. This would be consistent w/ rapid failure you describe.

No start begins w/ checking for fuel and spark (voltage to COP's).

good luck

 

Sounds like the starter doesn't spin the engine ("wouldn't crank"). That won't be fuel or spark.

 

"wouldn't crank but you can hear the fuel pump and starter turn"

You need to clarify no-start description.

good luck

 

Sounds like either the torque convertor is dead, or the clutches are toast.

Usually the clutches will start to slip before they go out completely. Does it have any gears left that will move the car? If not, then I would bet its the convertor.

Since the whole transmission will have to come out to get to the convertor, I would go ahead, and freshen up, the trans with new clutches/steels, and new o-rings, and seals, not to mention a good cleaning.

My biggest problem with getting used engines, or transmissions from the junkyard is that you really don't know how many miles are on them unless you can see the odometer in the car that has the trans that your planning to buy.

 

turns out it was the fly wheel, not sure what/why as when i was on the phone with the shop they were busy and i was busy. luckily my mechanic/shop also happens to be my uncle so were just waiting on parts and i'll have the car up and running soon and not ridiculous on my wallet. thanks for your help everyone!

 

I don't see it being the fly wheel as you said, "i was driving down the freeway at about 75 mph and then all of a sudden it felt as if the transmission disengaged, car would rev but not accelerate."

The only way that part could happen is if the tc went out, not the flywheel. The TC is connected to the flywheel so maybe you misunderstood?

 

it was the flexplate/flywheel. i found someone with the same problem here once i knew what it was:

'02 Accord - Engine/Flex Plate problems - Tech Support Forum

thanks for all your help and suggestions everyone!

 

The only way I can see a flexplate keeping the car from moving is if it cracked around the center in a circle. But it would make a Hell of a noise while the engine was running, and you wouldn't be able to start the car at all. [Which may be the case I don't know]

I'm a mechanic, I don't claim to know it all, and would wary of anyone who did, but here is how it works.

The flexplate/flywheel is connected to the crankshaft at the rear of the engine by bolts around the middle of the plate.

On the outer rim of the plate, or just a few inches in from the rim there is another set of bolts that connect the flexplate to the torque convertor.

This is what connects your engine to the drive train, fp to tc. So for the flex plate to be bad, as in the car won't move, but the engine still cranks, and runs, either the little bolts that hold the fp to the tc would all have to come out, or like I mentioned above the fp would have to crack in a circle around the diameter of the fp. Again, that may be what happened, ask your mechanic if in fact the fp did crack in a circle.

If there is something I'm missing folks please let me know as I have just had the engine/trans out, and didn't see anything different from a Honda flexplate vs any other fp I have ever seen [other than the Honda having many tiny bolts to connect the fp to the tc vs other trans either having four big studs, 4 big bolts doing the same job.]

Anyway, good luck, and I hope you get it worked out.

 

it made a slight ticking before it failed. once it failed, i was unable to accelerate and once the car was off i was unable to start it. it cracked in a circular manner. i'll take a picture if they haven't thrown it out yet.