I suspect your compressor is seizing, hence high load and slipping of clutch causing heating. Why? Overcharge or wear?


Maybe time for a new or used compressor replacement.


good luck

 

Yeah. I am definitely going w/ a new compressor. Too many risk not to at this point.
Is it possible that this all started due to excessive clutch gap and that caused the original coil to strain to engage clutch and eventually caused enough heat to cause an open circuit in original coil? Then once new coil was put in place, the same gap problem caused slippage of clutch which caused extreme heat to clutch parts and coil? That would mean the refrigerant side is ok. I say this because it worked sooo cold when the coil / clutch would work.
The other thing to note is that when the compressor was on the car and still hooked up to refrigerant lines, I turned the pulley to insure smooth operation. I turned it in both directions. Could that create a problem by pulling liquid Freon into compressor?
If neither of these sceanrios are too credible, then it sound like a flush is in order before I install the new compressor. If so, can I leave the existing expansion valve in place? Really dreading pulling evaporator! I already installed a new drier that is barely used and only open to atmosphere for a hour when I installed it and vacuumed it out until a shop could recharge it. I only added 3/4 Fl Oz of PAG 45 when I replace the drier. 1/3 Oz for Drier and the remainder to account for Freon I had to let out in a cup that showed no appreciable amount of oil.
Based on this, does it sound like it really needs to be flushed?

 

I didn't get to work on it this weekend due to Mothers Day and my other Daughters BDay. Will try after work one day this week. The shop that worked on it is a friend of the family. They are not AC Experts, but they do a lot of work on bigger work trucks. They have the RobinAir CoolTech 34788. When this first started, they added a very small amount of 134a to get the low side pressure about right and vent blowing cold. Not long after my daughter left their shop, it still would still blow hot periodically, so I changed then changed the Drier and all the O-Rings (to remove any possible moisture and avoid any possible leaks). They then noticed that the clutch wasn't kicking in when it was blowing warm intermittently and they tapped it and it would kick in easy with a tap. It eventually wouldn't kick in at all and I confirmed an open circuit through the coil. That's when I thought it had been the coil all along and changed the coil and re-installed the clutch with the same shim that maintained the same gap of 0.024". Then it melted the coil. The belt did not look affected and no signs of belt slippage or overheating belt. Compressor still turned smooth and no signs of leakage from compressor seal. Therefore, I'm assuming the heat stayed local to the clutch and coil (and bearing). The bearing is still surprisingly smooth. I'm hoping the clutch gap just wasn't sufficient and caused clutch slippage and overheating of clutch and coil.
Tell me if this plan sounds like the correct path..... I will first get the "refrigerant" sucked out by the machine again so I can measure the oil that comes out this time (I'm not going to try the cup trick this time...Lol). I will remove the old compressor and pour the remaining oil out of the high & low ports and measure. I will add 143a measured by machine and oil poured from old compressor. This is how much needs to be in the new compressor. I will remove any new oil from new compressor and WHEN I recharge with the machine, I will have them add new PAG46 oil (total previously measured from machine and old compressor) with the machine when recharging 134a. I'm assuming the machine is a better way to add oil than pouring it in the low side of the compressor, but I may be mistaken....
At worst, I may be off by the 3/4 Fl Oz I had them add earlier. That had accounted for the supposed 1/3 Fl Oz that Honda said the drier usually holds and some ??? amount that I discharged into the cup.
When I remove old compressor, I will look at high side compressor port and high side hose to determine if there is any "debris" such as gummed up oil or metal fragment. If so, I will have to flush everything and replace expansion valve and drier (and possible condenser it sounds like from your advice). If there is no evidence of debris, I may be able to safely assume that all my problems were local to the clutch (external to the compressor) and I wont have to go through all the extra effort of flushing and pulling the evaporator to change the expansion valve. Luckily CARQUEST will warranty the new 1 yr Denso compressor with "just a drier replacement" (which I already did before this melted coil).
Does that path sound reasonable or am I really gambling big time? Thanks!!!

 

When I reworked my 94 EX I added almost 6 oz DE PAG to replace PAG from entire system (replaced evap, new comp shaft seal, new receiver/drier, flushing condensor). This is a bit more than various sources had for total, but system has worked well for years? now. Point is not to go short on PAG. A little too much won't hurt anything.


I have absolutely no faith in the volumes associated w/ component replacement. I've pulled a compressor and drained to find nothing could be obtained. I know PAG is lost every time you attach manifold set and measure pressures.


I don't know anyway to be certain that debris is not blocking expansion valve except operating the system to observe pressures.


Sorry for slow responses. I've been on the road.


good luck

 

Well, I bit the bullet... Changed the Compressor (w/ new clutch & coil), expansion valve, condenser & drier. I flushed the evaporator and hoses. I then changed all the O-Rings & Schrader valves again and lubed them all with Ester 100 Oil. I added 5-1/3 Fl Oz of PAG 46 Oil to the low suction side of the compressor after it was installed on the engine and rotated the compressor about 10 times in the clockwise direction after the lines were re-connected to the compressor. I installed the drier last, then vacuumed it for at least 2 hours. I removed the vacuum pump and it held 29 in Hg for a few hours. Sending it to the shop today to get charged with 17.6 - 19.4 Oz 134a per spec.
I wasn't too sure on the way I added the oil. Am I ok with the way I added the oil?

 

You should be fine w/ adding oil to compressor.


If you've vacuumed, why not charge yourself? You should be able to get w/I spec amount using 12 oz cans. A postage scale would be helpful.


good luck

 

They don't charge me labor, just the cost of the 134a, which is probably cheaper than I can buy it anyway. Its family. I figured I would be better off with the accuracy of their recovery machine to get a precise charge amount.

 

I have a 2006 Honda accord hybrid ac clutch wont engage if I ground the relay wire it will engage or if I ground the yellow wire on the pressure switch it will engage any ideas

 

Sounds like your pressure is low. Have it checked out. Did you swap your a/c relay with another in the fuse box. Switch 12 and 7 just to make sure your relay is good. They should be the same relay

 

Thank you yes I tried swapping the relay and all the fuses inside and engine compartment are good i did an evacuation and recharged with the correct amount of freon and pressure is about 110 with compressor off and when i ground either the relay or pressure switch the compressor runs and pressure goes to about 50 on the low side and 250 on the high side which is a little high but still even then blows warm air I have an ac machine so I know the amount of freon is right on