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  #1  
Old 07-14-2012, 01:00 PM
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 2
Default 2006 Accord V6 Spark Plugs

Hey guys, I'm new here and searched all over and found some information, but just want to make sure I'm not biting off too much here. I have a 2006 Accord EX with the 3.0 V6. We are right around 102k on the miles and I just stimulated the economy by having the dealer do the timing belt, water pump, coolant flush and all that stuff. We are getting ready for a road trip next week and I was wondering if I should just do the spark plugs.

So I guess my questions are:

1) are these the recommended plugs:
NGK (6994) IZFR6K-11 Iridium Spark Plug, Pack of 1


2) do or do I not use anti-seize?


3) do I need anything special to reach the plugs in the back?



4) is it a pain in the *** or should I just pay the dealer $280 to do it!??



If anyone can help me or point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it, thanks!!
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  #2  
Old 07-14-2012, 01:29 PM
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2005 Acura TSX
 
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Take a look in your owner's manual to see when the spark plugs are due for a change.

My TSX uses the same plugs, and the spark plugs at 110K miles looked to be in great shape.

I use antiseize on the threads. Just put a dab on the threads, then spread out a thin layer over them.
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  #3  
Old 07-14-2012, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stl717 View Post
We are getting ready for a road trip next week and I was wondering if I should just do the spark plugs.
my rule of thumb is never start wrenching on an operating car/motorcycle just before a big trip.

They'll be plenty of time after...
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  #4  
Old 07-14-2012, 02:30 PM
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Your 2006 Accord has the Maintenance Minder, when the service code B4 is displayed, that is the recommended time to change the spark plugs. Service code B4 should come on at approximately 105,000 miles or a little later.

1) Honda recommends the Denso Iridium, SKJ20DR-M11 for your 2006 V6.

NGK's site shows the NGK IZFR6K-11for your car.

2) NGK: For spark plugs with special metal plating simply do not use anti-seize on initial Installation; All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with a special trivalent Zinc-chromate shell plating that is designed to prevent both corrosion and seizure to the cylinder head; Thus eliminating the need for any thread compounds or lubricants.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf

3) A socket extension will help remove the plugs in the back.

Disconnect the air/fuel ratio sensor (a type of wide-band O2 sensor) electrical connector before removing plastic cover for the front plugs.

4) You can do-it-yourself.

You probably should wait until you get back from the trip.
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  #5  
Old 07-14-2012, 07:24 PM
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I would suggest using one of these tools, with the socket permanently attached to the extension. Using a regular plug socket, and regular extension, when you pull the extension out of the engine, the socket could stay inside the engine on the plug. This one has a magnetic socket, to hold the plug, and the extension is attached with a swivel connection. I got it from Advance Auto.
Click the image to open in full size.
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  #6  
Old 07-14-2012, 09:16 PM
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
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Thanks for the help guys! I am going to wait until I get back to do this, I would barely have time to get them done even if I wanted to at this point.

I can't believe the dealer wants almost $300 to do this! I was kind of hesitant on getting the timing belt and all that done right before we left, but I figure it's probably better than worrying about the timing belt failing while I'm driving through the Rockies!

Thanks for the help so far!
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  #7  
Old 07-15-2012, 07:48 AM
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Spark plugs in your car are easy to change, its a 20-minute job and it does not require any special tools at all. On the front bank the plugs are right in front of you; just pop off the plastic cover and remove the bolt that holds down the coil-pack for each plug, pull it off, and then use a plug-socket and extension to remove the old plug. When installing the new plug(s) always start the plug by hand and screw it all the way in by hand too. You only use the wrench to finally tighten the, and even then make sure you do not over-tighten them (a very common mistake). The rear bank is only slightly more difficult in the sense that you have to bend over to do it and you can not see clearly. but everything on the rear is just like the front so there are no mysteries involved in getting it done. Basically if you have the mechanical skills necessary to successfully make a peanut-butter and jelly sandwich you can probably handle changing a set of plugs in your car.

Never use anti-sieze on any spark plugs. Anti-sieze is usually made by mixing a high temperature grease with a soft metal and nearly all of it is an excellent conductor. If you put itl over the threads and then drop it down the plug hole it is very likely that some of it will find its way to the electrodes where they have the potential to short out the plug and certainly have the ability to foul it. Anti-sieze is essential stuff where it is required; for instance its absolutely necessary to avoid gauling when using stainless steel hardware, but most other places it just makes a mess.
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Last edited by 1-Old-Man; 07-15-2012 at 07:56 AM.
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  #8  
Old 07-16-2012, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbull-1 View Post
Your 2006 Accord has the Maintenance Minder, when the service code B4 is displayed, that is the recommended time to change the spark plugs. Service code B4 should come on at approximately 105,000 miles or a little later.

1) Honda recommends the Denso Iridium, SKJ20DR-M11 for your 2006 V6.

NGK's site shows the NGK IZFR6K-11for your car.

2) NGK: For spark plugs with special metal plating simply do not use anti-seize on initial Installation; All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with a special trivalent Zinc-chromate shell plating that is designed to prevent both corrosion and seizure to the cylinder head; Thus eliminating the need for any thread compounds or lubricants.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf

3) A socket extension will help remove the plugs in the back.

Disconnect the air/fuel ratio sensor (a type of wide-band O2 sensor) electrical connector before removing plastic cover for the front plugs.

4) You can do-it-yourself.

You probably should wait until you get back from the trip.
I totally agree with everything redbull said. Easily a DIY job. I've got TWO left hands AND no thumbs yet I was able to do the job on my son's v6 (2004). If you're as challenged as I am, I would allow a little more than 20 minutes...but certainly less than 1 hour. I'd recommend you start with the rear plugs as they are a bit harder to reach...but NOT difficult. Once you get to the fronts, you're home free. You'll need to use an allen wrench (metric, I recall) to remove the spark plug tubes. Also, a couple of socket extensions (3" and 6") might be helpful for the rear plugs (nearest the firewall).

Redbull mentioned..."disconnect the a/f (02 sensor) electrical connector before removing the plastic cover for the front plugs". Personally, I would call this a "clip". Here's the deal. The front a/f sensor (upstream) has this little clip attached to the middle of the sensor wire(s). It fits into the plastic cover that you'll need to remove to access the front plugs. I didn't see this when I did the job (I'm blind too). So, after loosening the 2 screws holding the plastic cover, I started tugging since the cover wouldn't come off. Mistake! You could damage the a/f wiring. As soon as you can lift the cover, gently turn it over and disconnect the a/f sensor clip.

Using my terminology, the clip I'm talking about is not the same as the "electrical connector" for the 02 sensor itself which I do NOT recommend trying to disconnect. At the time I was replacing spark plugs, I was also replacing my front upstream a/f (02) sensor. I can tell you from my experience, trying to disconnect the "electrical connector" for the a/f sensor was a total PITA. I'm sure a "real mechanic" could do it in 30 seconds or less. Me...I spent an hour trying to get it disconnected so I could replace the sensor. Finally, with the help of a buddy, we got it disconnected BUT I could NOT tell you how we did it. Magic, I guess?

Moral of the story...I ended up replacing the wrong a/f sensor. Should have replaced the rear (upstream). Oh well.
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Old 07-16-2012, 05:31 AM
 
 
 
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