Hello everyone, I have a 90 Accord with an automatic transmission. The problem is it stalls when I put it in gear and also when it comes to a stop. I've actually had the car sitting up maybe for a few years now and recently began work on it to bring it back up to Snuff. Now yesterday I was having the problems with it stalling but this morning when I first started it, it idled for 15 minutes no problem but as soon as I put it in gear and attempted to drive it, it wanted to stall and as I came to a stop, it stalled. It seems as though all my problems begin when I put the car in gear and try to drive it. it idles fine until an attempt to drive it then stalls. Now when do symptoms appear when I restart the car it runs for about 5 seconds then stalls out.I started again it runs for about 5 Seconds and it stalls again. I did this over and over and then I thought it was a fuel issue. I sprayed carburetor cleaner into the intake and as it began to stumble I sprayed it in and the car remained running, but as soon as I stopped spraying the carburetor cleaner it stalled. This would lead me to believe that this is a fuel issue but that wouldn't explain why it could idle for 15 minutes without stopping. I have swapped Distributors and ruled out the main relay simply because of the fact that it can I go for 15 minutes no problem. I have verified that the check engine light is operational and I have no transmission codes and my S light is not flashing nor illuminated. I have also verify the operation of the torque converter clutch solenoids and their continuity between 12 and 24 ohms. I also need to mention that my shift interlock switch is faulty because I have to insert an extra ignition key in order to shift the gears and I don't know if that has anything to do with the problems I'm having. Also I do not have the forward drive Gears of D4 D3 and 2. I only have reverse and first gear. Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated.

 

Sounds like idle-control system isn't right. Check this out:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/

... in addition to more serious problems with your transmission.

 

This is really a General-Tech question, so I'll move it into that forum.

 

Okay I found out what was going on with the transmission I never replace the transmission control module once I did that it started working like brand new. Now the only thing I have left is the stalling issue. next I will make sure the base idle is correct and update everyone as soon as I get some results.

 

A cleaning of the IACV might be in order as well.

Good luck and keep us up to date on progress.

 

Does carb cleaner into the intake still keep the car running when it stalls out?

 

Okay, cleaned out the iacv and the fitv and the throttle body, and topped off the coolant and squeezed the hoses. I also smoke tested for vacuum leaks with a cigar and actually found one at the cruise control vacuum line. I plugged it up and started the car. After the fans came on twice I disconnected the iacv and the idle went down. I looked at the RPM gauge and the RPM's were already steady at 600 RPMs. So I plugged the iacv back up and disconnected the battery and removed the fuse for the ECU. I may have omitted some steps in this entry as far as setting the base idle but I followed the procedure outlined in the last reply. The only thing now is that I have a check engine light with a code 14 which is actually for the iacv or a bad ECU. Will unplugging the iacv Cause this when you're setting the base idle?

 

Yes, unplugging the IACV will give you a check engine light. You can reset the ECU by pulling the 7.5 amp backup/radio fuse in the engine bay fuse box for 10 seconds. Then start the car when cold and allow it to return to normal operating temperature as decribed in setting the base idle link above.

 

Okay,completed setting the base idle and am still having the same issues. One thing I did notice this time is that when I rev up the engine to around 3000 RPMs and hold it there, the engine begins to stumble and bog down. If I release the gas it returns to a normal idle with no stumbling. And it still has the same symptoms as before such as stalling when I put it in gear and coming to a stop. Now I can idle in reverse and I can idle in drive but I have to rapidly pat on the gas to keep it from stumbling to a stop in both of these gears. All of this is happening after the fans have cycled on at least twice indicating that the car is at normal operating temperature. It almost seems as though everytime I put a load on it from the transmission the car wants to quit and it also seems that the catalytic converter may be clogged causing it to bog down at a higher RPM. Any thoughts?

 

Are the rest of the tune up items up to date....I see you changed the dist but what about everything else - plugs, cap, rotor.