I have a 91 accord ex and have recently done a rebuild on the vehicle, I have put it back together have checked every component that I know of, the ECM was bad and I replaced it, fuel pressure good, good spark, timing is on, check cont at the ignition switch good, checked the relay good, hot at injectors, injectors pulse when cranking according to the test light, ground at t stat is on, however when turning key on the relay does not prime the pump for 2 seconds (but energizes pump while cranking) and I noticed when doing my voltage test on the ignition switch harness at the fuse box, when probing ign 2 I believe, I could hear the relay cutting in and out if I would press on the pin in a certain way. I checked for cont across the inj while cranking but didn't seem to have cont, which I found weird because I have voltage and they pulse to ground when cranking, I am seriously about to pull my hair out....and I thank anyone for any of their advice. I might add that I have a blinking S light when cranking no CEL codes and I did look in the trans unit and there was no connectors resistors or transistors that appeared or smelled like they were blown however I know it is still a possibility.

 

Was this problem there before you did the rebuild? Where are you testing for voltage when the relay is supposed to be powering the fuel pump?

 

The no start was not a problem however there was an issue with the car wanting to fall on its face while driving, stumbling and stalling. When I was probing the ignition switch, fuse panel side for voltage is when I could hear the relay kick on and off, as I said the relay does not energize the fuel pump for the two seconds it is supposed to when koeo, however it does when the vehicle is cranking, the relay kicking on seemed to come from me moving the test lead around in the back on the switch harness at the fuse panel. Thank you for any help. Sorry i was checking for voltage at blk yellow from ignition switch, fuse panel side.

 

Also I believe I need to check the harness at the relay when the key is on to be sure I dont know if it could be the problem however I think it may be possible that the ignition switch is not sending enough current through the circuit to power the relay which may not be allowing the injectors to fire when the vehicle is in the run position....an odd set of problems though, when I first got it built it would idle but fall on its face then after replacing a few components now it wont run at all and its making me insane as I am checking everything it could be or that i think it could be, after speaking with a friend at the dealer he said to make sure that the fuses were ok but after checking them all even the non related ones I am at a loss, it seems related to the circuit from the relay to the tcm as the sport indicator is flashing, it really seems to be trying to start but just wont stay running.

 

I see that you replaced the ecu. Was this "during" the rebuild and before the issue?

In the koeo position there is a "signal" from the ecm. Check the techauto site for a good write up if you do not have the factory manual.....one last question, if you open the butterfly and spray carb cleaner in there, will it start?

 

actually it was after the initial issue after the rebuild was completed i was getting the same falling on the face as before saw the ecm was in quite a bit of water and decided that since it wasnt turning on the cel at all that it must be an issue

 

So I found something interesting, when I pulled the harness at the fuel pump and tested the wires going into the fp housing the yellow wire had about 50-150 ohms resistance to ground, now the yellow wire when the relay kicks in should be supplying the fuel pump with 12v, so I am making the assumption that the fuel pump is shorted internally, is there a. reason I am not blowing fuses and b. can this truly be the problem that I am having, I am not sure why I had fuel pressure then when cranking good fuel pressure too, within spec at least, but it would seem from what I have heard that issues like this can cause some wonky problems.

 

Why was you ECU in water?

Are you testing the yellow wire under that cover in the trunk? Are you testing the relay side of the wire, or the fuel pump side of that wire?

 

Leaking door seal, fuel pump side of the wire

Edit: thanks guys for the help

 

The fuel pump will have some resistance. I have no idea what the spec it for the resistance.

You said that the fuel pump does not prime when you turn the key to the II position. This is where you need to start testing. Check for 12V to ground on the relay side of that electrical connector you tested before.