Proud to report my car is in the shop and per the reccomindations of this posts, he is going to check for the codes.
This is after the orginally described problem now has completely prevented the car from starting!
Since I also have done some research on the AT TCU. Per the information I found, I tried the disconnecting the battery (in desperate attempt to get it started so I could get to the mechanic) and wouldn't you by doing so reset the unit and the car started right up.
I will post the codes that we get to complete my thread. After I post the codes I plan to discuss the fix solution and will post what we determine.
Check this link out for some interesting information (ALONG WHAT POSTERS HAVE SAID; JUST MORE DETAIL AND DIAGRAMS)
Honda Electronic Transmission Problem- Troubleshoot, Inspection, Repair, Replace.
Copied & Pasted Text From Link
The 90-93 Accord is a modern vehicle that relies on the computer to determine shifting points to increase comfort and safety. Without the computer the transmission won't shift and the car will simply move at a snail's pace or will simply default to limp mode, which can either be 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear. For example, a faulty transmission computer could cause the car to suddenly shift into lower gear while driving. This causes the car to drop in speed while the RPM shoots up. With other cases, the car will have a hard time accelerating from a stop unless the car is first manually shift to D2. The symptoms are followed by the 'S' or 'D4' shifter status light on the instrument panel blinking, or lights up or doesn't light up at all.
If the car won't shift into correct gears and displays a self-diagnostic light most likely the fault is not with the transmission. Sometimes a clattering sound may also be heard in the cockpit. This may be the sound of the transmission interlock system misbehaving, which may indicate a bad TCU.
Do not replace the transmission without first confirming the situation electronically. The fault is usually the Automatic Transmission Control Unit (also known as the automatic transmission computer or TCU/TCM.)
If there is a problem with the input or output in the A/T control unit
light in the gauge assembly will blink. However, some PGM-FI problem will also make the D4
light in the gauge assembly blink. If there is a problem with the emission fuel control system the code will have to be retrieved from the check engine light first. Repairing the emission fuel control system is first priority. After repairing the PGM-FI system then reset the A/T unit's memory.
The usual problem with the Honda Accord transmission, namely the 90,91, -, - Accord, is a bad transmission computer. What happens is that the transmission computer has a couple cheap parts that fail. The failing parts may or may not automatically put the TCU into a saftey (limp) mode (aka, the "fail safe strategy.") The three known failed components are two resistors and a capacitor inside the transmission computer. The symptoms
are of several types. The car "S" light or "D4" is on (just stays on D4 no matter what gear is selected) or blinking and the transmission won't shift into any gears or sometimes stuck on a certain gear. The trouble codes could be 1,2,7,8,9,15
. Shifter interlock control unit buzzes. When the driver steps on the gas the rpm goes high but the car refuses to move at the expected speed. By resetting the TCU, either by removing the fuse for a certain period or by disconnecting the negative battery for 5 to 10 seconds will eliminate the problem, but only temporarily.
The resistors R41, R42, R43,
are overheated or burned and capacitors C27, C28, C32, C33, C5
leaking or shorted. Some resistors will be burned off to the point where no one can determine the values. A common sense approach is to consult a working TCU and read the color code on the resistors or start with the highest resistance and go down. Find the best wattage resistor or the best voltage capacitor that can fit.
The problem originates with the electrolytic capacitors leaking. Often, the capacitor short circuits frying other components such as your resistor. Another words, the burned resistor is a result of another component failure, namely the capacitor. The fix is to replace the bad parts. See the values below.
R41 is most likely 15 Ohms; R42 is 15 Ohms, both appears to look like a 1/4 to 1/2 Watt; Capacitor C28 105`C 220uF 35V Nichicon H9146. Replace all of them or else the problem may return. If the problem returns, it's likely not your solenoids, but the parts on the circuit board.
sample: Before it was new and now it has fried.