Will try switching wiring to test that, but neither cap nor wire really makes that much sense because both have been replaced at one time or another while this was going on (to one degree or another). Cap/rotor have been replaced at least 3 times.

Assuming that it's not cap or lead, what would be less likely?

You can see a (very large) photo of the interior of the distributor and the "inside" of the coil at this link. Distributor Not sure if the browning of connectors is typical or suggests a burning of some sort. You can see a break in the plastic around the right side of the coil.

As always, thanks.

 

It might be possible for rotor to cause a loss of spark, but very unlikely. Since other 3-cyls are firing, it seems likely a spark is generated, but does not make it through the coil, rotor, cap, wire, plug and is somewhere being grounded.

If you have a timing light w/ inductive pickup, you can test for spark current at coil, along coil wire, and spark plug lead by placing pickup at those locations. A flash from timing light indicates spark current is passing.

Though unlikely, perhaps no spark is being generated by ECM/ignitor due to lack of cyl 3 timing signal from crankshaft position sensor. Why only one cylinder would miss timing signal is difficult to explain and unlikely. You want to be certain of spark test before looking into this.

good luck

 

Okay, this was about the rough running returning after replacing the distributor cap, but for some reason, that post is closed.

Determined yesterday that there was no spark coming out of the plug end of the wire for cylinder 3. Did Test multiple times.

Took Ginny to work this AM, and the car was running beautifully, as if the trouble never existed. Came home and found the wire on number three sticking up slightly. Tried to reset, and it just came back up.

Checked with flashlight, and the terminal has come completely loose, and is on the plug. This does suggest to me that the terminal was not properly connected, possibly the cause of the misfiring/no spark, and I'll be going for a new set of wires.

Hope that fixes the problem........but before that, I have to figure out how to get that terminal out. Way too deep for any needle nose pliers I have. Thinking I'll try to hook it with a clothes hanger.

Thanks to TexasHonda for all the help and patience.

 

Check recent posts for similar problem.

It was resolved by cutting and pushing the spark plug connector remainder w/ sharp screwdriver and hammer till pieces were separated from plug. Used vacuum to blow or suck the parts out of spark plug tube.

Re-read your post and noticed spark plug lead was being "pushed up". There may be combustion gases in spark plug tube (loose spark plug) or excess crankcase pressure bypassing spark plug tube seals. Check PCV system is working.

good luck

 

Getting the terminal out turned out to be the easiest thing I've done all week....just bent a wire hanger and snagged it on the first try. Guess all that time playing the dragline game when the carnival came to town wasn't wasted (that and the old days when a hanger could unlock your car when the keys were in the wrong place).

And I'm happy to be proven wrong because I replaced that wire, checked and got spark, put it in place, and the car went cross town and back running the way you expect a Honda to run. Never would have thought it was a wire since I replaced cap/rotor/wires when this first started. When the problem came back, I thought I might have gotten a bad cap and replaced that. Never went on to think about a bad wire, but it appears that something was weak at the terminal the whole time.

Thanks again, TexasHonda. Hope I don't need Honda help for a long time, but I know where I'll come if I do.

 

If there are signs of the problem returning, I'll check items you mentioned. With luck, there will be money available for repairs then.

 

Thanks for posting your fix.

good luck

 

Hence spray with a water mist while engine is cool and if there is an external break to ground the engine should react and you will know something is amiss... This is one of the common diagnostic principles I have employed at the honda shop for the past 15 years of working on them. Never assume because something is new or relatively new that it is fine until ruled out, otherwise you can chase your tail endlessly.