I'm getting ready to tackle replacing the oil pan gasket on my 92 Accord. Got the front end up on ramps a good decent amount so have decent clearance for me to work. My Chilton manual states to disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold and then to "position it aside or remove it from the vehicle." Well it looks easy enough for me to disconnect the pipe from the manifold but then it doesn't look like I'd be very able to just "position it aside" out of the way so I could proceed to do the removal/replacement of the oil pan/gasket. It looks more like I'd need to remove it completely out of the way, but I'm looking at where that section of exhaust is connected to the catalytic converter and man those bolts are rusted/corroded big time; I would NOT want to have to struggle to get that joint disconnected. Any comments/advice appreciated on whether I just might actually be able to position the exhaust aside enough with just disconnecting it from the manifold, in order to do the job? Or should I really need to plan on trying to take that section of the exhaust off, maybe the whole dang exhaust or what? Thanks

 

Ok I was indeed able to position the exhaust pipe far enough out of the way. But THEN the hassle was trying to get the flywheel dust shield off so out of the way so I could get the pan unbolted. Managed to do that with a LOT of prying and cussing (and will probably be a hassle to get that dang thing back on right eventually). Must be some trick to that I dunno. But NOW, after getting the pan removed, I find the old gasket has hardened onto the pan and is almost like baked on. I was able to scrape/chip the majority of it off but some of the hardened material remains stuck hard to the pan flange and doesn't want to scrape off. I need to get it all off so is there something I can soak it in or whatever to be able to get that hardened black residue of the scraped off gasket completely removed? It's really hard, like baked on hard plastic onto the metal flange...

 

I'm not sure what solvent will soften that material. You can try soaking in water or maybe mineral spirits? A sharp razor blade may take it off. If you have a sanding block, you can try medium sand paper, then work your way to fine sandpaper to have a smooth surface on the metal.

Before you reinstall the pan, flip the pan over and set the top (gasket contact part) of the pan on a flat surface. You want to make sure that the pan is flat and you have no gaps, or you could have leaks in those spots.

I know about rusty catalytic converter bolts. I've just dropped the entire exhaust back form the manifold from the rubber bushings. WD40 or equivalent makes sliding the pins out from the rubber easier.

 

Ah, I read some other advice I found online and had good luck removing that old gasket material using a propane torch. What I couldn't scrape/chip off I just heated up with the torch and it then it scraped off cleanly/easily with a putty knife. Will be ready to put things back together with a new gasket next. Any further tips/advice in that regard I'd certainly welcome... thanks. I anticipate having a struggle getting that dang flywheel dust shield back into place the way it's supposed to be. It's right there in the way of the two bolts at that end of the pan; I had to pry/bend it to get it removed so probably will be trying to pry/bend tthe dang thing again it to get it back on (unless there's a real method that makes it easier somehow).

Edit: Okay I came across an older thread this forum and found an apparent answer to my difficulty. I need to take off the shifter cable cover off in addition to that flywheel dust shield: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...accords-10981/ it is mentioned in the first post that thread.

 

Isn't too early to be working on cars up there . spring is like two months away

You found the post from "desert" that explains that cover . There is also some tips about the replacement. All I can add is watch out for how much you torque the pan.

Glad to hear the 4th gen is still kicking

 

Yes. But just felt that urge to "git r done."

Yup, and those tips helped out great. Glad I found that old post/thread.

Carefully, gradually, torqued the pan bolts to 10 ft lbs, in a criss-cross pattern from middle to ends.

Thanks poorman! I thought you might be.

 

Well here is to hoping for no "drips, runs or errors"

Getting old and that so not on here as much, so when I did see this and started reading I thought about linking you to the thread from "desert" but as I read on I saw you found it....glad it worked out.

Again, truly glad to hear the the 4th gen is still kicking along.

Take care