'93 Accord: Ignition Lock Cylinder Replacement w/Broken Key
#1
'93 Accord: Ignition Lock Cylinder Replacement w/Broken Key
Hello,
I have a broken key inside the cylinder and haven't been able to get it out. Because I'm 100 miles from a locksmith, I'm curious if anyone has been able to remove the lock cylinder without being able to turn the key to the "I" position. Is it possible to drill it out until being able to rotate it with a screwdriver?
Thanks!
I have a broken key inside the cylinder and haven't been able to get it out. Because I'm 100 miles from a locksmith, I'm curious if anyone has been able to remove the lock cylinder without being able to turn the key to the "I" position. Is it possible to drill it out until being able to rotate it with a screwdriver?
Thanks!
Last edited by wings; 12-27-2010 at 01:32 PM.
#2
This link has good information on how to extract a broken key from the key cylinder. Usually a saw blade such as a coping saw blade is used.
doityourself.com/stry/remove-broken-key
I wouldn't recommend drilling it. The switch body/key cylinder assembly can be removed. IIRC, it is held in with two shear bolts, once the column cover is removed.
I recommend trying to extract the key with a saw blade or piece of thin metal, that way, you don't need to replace the key cylinder and switch body.
doityourself.com/stry/remove-broken-key
I wouldn't recommend drilling it. The switch body/key cylinder assembly can be removed. IIRC, it is held in with two shear bolts, once the column cover is removed.
I recommend trying to extract the key with a saw blade or piece of thin metal, that way, you don't need to replace the key cylinder and switch body.
#3
Hey redbull-1,
I'll definitely try some saw blades and some dental picks...
I was reluctant to remove the shear bolts because it would involve removing the steering wheel, finding new bolts, etc. But, maybe it'd be easier to just yank out the whole assembly and bring it to a locksmith (assuming the sawblades won't work). I do have another spare key I can use...
Thanks for the recommendation!
I'll definitely try some saw blades and some dental picks...
I was reluctant to remove the shear bolts because it would involve removing the steering wheel, finding new bolts, etc. But, maybe it'd be easier to just yank out the whole assembly and bring it to a locksmith (assuming the sawblades won't work). I do have another spare key I can use...
Thanks for the recommendation!
#4
Keep at with the blades, picks, etc. Unless you have a cylinder/switch assembly readily available, I wouldn't recommend pulling it.
One time when I had an older Accord, my key cylinder was frozen. No matter what I did the key wouldn't turn; (lubricant, tapping with a mallet by the tow truck driver didn't work). I had no tools with me to replace it. I had to get the car towed home from over 50 miles away. I picked up a new key cylinder/switch assembly that night and replaced it the next morning.
One time when I had an older Accord, my key cylinder was frozen. No matter what I did the key wouldn't turn; (lubricant, tapping with a mallet by the tow truck driver didn't work). I had no tools with me to replace it. I had to get the car towed home from over 50 miles away. I picked up a new key cylinder/switch assembly that night and replaced it the next morning.
#7
I never found a place locally that sold shear bolts, they only came with the Honda parts. You don't need shear bolts though, the metric bolts are M8 x 1.25 x 15. Any screws with those measurements would work though; but, still hard to find that short of a metric bolt. That way a regular screwdriver can be used to install and remove the bolts.
#8
So, I resigned to paying for a locksmith to drive out and try his hand. After 2 hrs he gave up. I then removed the steering wheel and airbag and proceeded to use a combination of hammering a screwdriver into it, selectively drilling it, and removing the broken pieces of the cylinder. Eventually, I actually drilled (from above) the pin that holds the cylinder in place. After about 4 small drill bits, the surface of the pin was below that of the assembly and I was able to remove the cylinder. The replacement lock cylinder (autozone, $25) slipped right in and is as good as new.
I took some pictures that I'll post later...
I took some pictures that I'll post later...
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