When my car was 7 years old Honda replaced the Modulator for free (just had to pay for the labor). I noticed that they swapped the accumulator...old part on new Modulator.

For the last year or so my Mod/Accumulator unit has developed a leak underneath and for a while I just disconnected the fuses and lived with the ABS light on.

I re-tightened the plugs as per the service bulletin but now think the problem may be the accumulator's "o" ring??? Can the accumulator be removed and a new "o" ring installed??? What stops the nitrogen gas from leaking out...and what is the relief plug on top for?

Has anyone replaced the "o" ring and is it easy to do? Are there any written procedures to do it (the manual doesn't go into it)?

Sorry for all the questions.....

Thanks in advance.

Michael

 

There's a piston inside that accumulator, with nitrogen under pressure, above the piston. Top plug will let the nitrogen out, so DO NOT open that top plug.

If the nitrogen has leaked out over time, you need a new accumulator. (If you had the means of re-pressurizing that thing, you wouldn't be asking these questions.)

IIRC, the accumulator is held down by a couple bolts from beneath. So the modulator assembly has to be taken out so you can reach those bolts. Once it's out, the O-ring is easy.

You didn't say what year Accord, so go here:
www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
enter your car's information & look at the parts pictures for a better idea of what's what.

 

Jim,

I have a 1994 Accord EX sedan w/ 147,000 miles.

I am wondering if I can figure out what size "o" ring to use...if it's possible to just raise up the modulator and remove the accumulator to fit on a new "o" ring?

Everything still works fine except for the leaking brake fluid under the unit. I think there are also "o" rings from the fill tank to the modulator housing...and it would be nice to replace them also.

Thanks for your help!

Michael

 

I replaced oring on modulator in 97 Acura 2.2CL (same as 94-97 Accord 2.2) by removing as described, taking the oring to auto parts store and matching. I could not get the oring from Honda parts when I inquired. I understand that some have managed to buy the oring, so may be worth a try.

You will have to remove the modulator to replace the accumulator. Use flare tubing wrench to release tubing nuts. While out, I would replace the orings on the reservoir/modulator connection also. There are 9 body plugs, some hidden. Did you tighten all of them?

good luck

 

Update:

I managed to loosen up the three bolts that hold down the modulator in my car. It looks like the leak is coming from the large hex plugs underneath and I DID NOT HAVE TO remove any
brake lines to work on it. I did have to go to AutoZone to get a set of 3 Allen Sockets for $11 or so. Then I was able to hold up the modulator enough and use a driver to tighten up the 3 plugs.... Hopefully that is enough because they really should be resealed with a sealant.

I will post results in a few days and report if this worked. I did have to remove a brake line hold down bolt and a small 2 screw contraption with vacuum hoses going to it....thats all.

Michael

 

You may get lucky ,however from memory there are 8-9 body plugs to be tightened. Odds are not good that you got all the leakers. You need the TSB to be sure and tighten all the body plugs. Some are hidden by other parts.

Only special tool needed is a 10mm flare tubing wrench to break the tubing nuts loose, and regular shop tools for hold downs and tubing brackets. I plug each brake line flare end w/ a paper towel plug to prevent any debris entering while disconnected. You will have to bleed the brakes (regular procedure) after removing the modulator to remove air in the brake lines. Good time to flush the entire system w/ fresh brake fluid. I have never had to "bleed the modulator" as some have. I simply go out and excercise the modulator w/ a hard stop. Works for me.

good luck

 

I have or had the TSB and at an earlier date was able to seal or re-torque most of the plugs....except for the bottom 3. So far after just 1 day their seems to be no leakage
at all. I can run my fingers down there and they come updry. I was loosing alot of fluid
previously so I would have noticed it by now - I would think.

Let me see what happens this week and I will give another update.

Just think Everhart Honda in Statesville, NC wanted to replace the whole modulator ata cost of well over $1000 - and said that WAS THE ONLY WAY to fix the leakage!!! The said removing the plugs and resealing them was only a waste of time!!!

And all it cost me was $11 for the set of hex drivers (3 of them but I only needed one).

Michael

 

That's BS!!! I've resealed dozens of em per the bulletin without a problem.

 

As always, the stealership just wants your money. I guess part of their job description when they interview new techs is "Must be a good liar. Must not have any problem whatsoever with lying to customers in order to charge them more money for unneeded services." Is "Being a good liar" arequired coursethey teach at tech schools before the future techs are allowed to graduate? It probably goes hand in hand with "Pickpocketing 101" and"Robbery 102."

 

That's the beauty of DIY, however not all projects are as rewarding. Occasionally, the project will be so difficult you will wish you had paid someone to do the job.

good luck