My daughter's EX 5-spd VTEC 2.2 is acting up. Parked for a few weeks and now the thing won't start. It'll try to catch but then cuts out. You have to keep "pumping" the throttle like a carbed car to try to keep it running. Revs bounce to 3-4k but then drop to zero if you let off. No idle. I've changed basics like fuel and air filter, plugs, etc. trying to at least narrow the variables but no improvement. The old plugs were sooty black. Cranked it with the fuel line loose at the rail and it sprays with lots of pressure. There's no CEL or codes, fuses check OK, timing light shows pulse to #1, tach shows revs, gas tank's half full ...

Manuals and online research show umpteen generalized causes and cures from this point but I'm hoping someone will recognize the specific symptoms and help simplify the guessing game. Many thanks!!

 

There are a few directions you can go, but you still need to diagnose the problem.

I would disconnect the battery and clean all ends of both battery cables.

1. The timing light test is a quick way to see if current is getting to the spark plugs. You may want to pull a wire and use one of your old plugs to see if the spark is bright white or a weak orange. Another option is an inline spark tester.

2. Try spraying starter fluid or carb cleaner into the intake while cranking the engine.

 

Back for Round 2. Spark is white, seems OK. But the starting fluid test gets it running smoothly and normally until it's used up. Looks a whole lot like fuel delivery to me. I pulled the fuel line from the rail and cranked for a couple of seconds - collected at least a cup of fuel. Also, the car will run briefly after all bits are back together, surging when the pedal's pumped - but without a carb and accelerator pump, what does pumping DO? It's like limited fuel is getting through. Pressure (rather than volume)? Don't have a gauge to check that. Whatever regulates injector delivery? I'm basically old school so there's some voodoo here that eludes me. Lead on, wise ones ;^)

 

What about your injectors? I am not familiar with 94, but camshaft sensors control the injectors. If camshaft is out, your injectors won't operate. Or if camshafts are funky, your injectors are funky.

 

Latest detail: Borrowed a noid kit from O'Reilly's and all four injectors are getting pulse. The car has fuel, has juice to injectors and plugs, will rev for seconds at a time and then take a dump. Where next?

 

Need to try to verify fuel pressure, I'm think the same thing - lack of fuel....or too much, leaking injector(s).

 

Doesn't seem like too much fuel - doesn't smell like it, plugs aren't wet. It's like it's temporarily running out of gas, but then something in the system that SEEMS related to throttle position (the "pumping") provides another brief surge of fuel before cutting out again. Old saying is "if it seems like fuel, it's electrical". I can swap the noid kit for a fuel pressure test kit at O'Reilly which may be my next step anyway . . .

 

I know you said you are pumping the gas pedal.

Try holding the pedal down just 1/2 way and keep it steady and start the engine. If you have injectors, pumping really does not affect the flow of gas. If the engine runs, then the issue is air flow/ idle / throttle.

1) However, another thing pops up in my head. Check the fuel pressure regulator. With the engine off, pull the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator and see if you smell or see fuel coming out. If you do, then the diaphram is cracked and you need to replace the fuel pressure regulator. A large enough crack will "flood the engine".

2) Check vacuum lines for cracks or breaks. This is unlikely to cause the engine to quit. But if its bad enough or a large enough vacuum line, it could.

3) Then I would try cleaning out the throttle body with B-12. Be sure to put paper towels under the intake where the butterfly valve is. B-12 will soften up rubber and plastics. Cleaning it might remove gum, etc from the body and other things that affect idling.

these are all cheap and easy things to do and you have nothing to lose, before you get into the more technical items like checking idle valves, throttle positioning, etc...

Last but not least... the service engine light is not on at all ?

 

ICV and TPS

 

Partial update: Pedal position doesn't seem that critical. Although it seems to fire (briefly) a little easier with the butterfly open, it also will start with no pedal movement at all. I cranked several times and then it would fire, pop up to 2 grand or so until it used the fuel and died, and then took several more crankings before it would fire again. Like it's burning what fuel is in the lines and then has to build up again.

Regulator valve looks dry, no fumes.

Tried to test the TPS but could use some expert advice on how to read it while everything is in place. The plug is surrounded by a plastic shell, wires have rubber boots, no exposed metal whatsoever and I've TRIED to get a pin or something sharp to stay in place while I stood on my head and invented several new cuss words. Apparently none of this is the correct procedure. At this point, out of patience, battery's drained. Clocking out for the day -- or two ;^)