95 Accord EX starting problems
#1
95 Accord EX starting problems
Hi everyone.
My 95 accord ex 2.2L has starting problems. It just starts about 2 secs (I think is just the gas that the pump sends) but if i try again it just cranks. some times (rarely) it does by itself some other I have to spray starting fluid into the air intake to start it. once it's runing it works fine during the day, problem is in the morning, it won't start again I changed fuel pump and filter and stills the same. the CEL sends a code 15, so i started to run the tests indicated in the honda manual (ICM, Coil,), It does have spark but aparently injectors get no signal when cranking. main relay seems to be fine (It cliks and stuff). could it be the ECM? (although check engine light seems to work ok when turning the switch on) or just the ICM? a friend just told me to replace the dizzy with a working one and do so with the ECM, but there's no way to get one here, .I'm about to check the wire between the ICM and ECU. any ideas?
My 95 accord ex 2.2L has starting problems. It just starts about 2 secs (I think is just the gas that the pump sends) but if i try again it just cranks. some times (rarely) it does by itself some other I have to spray starting fluid into the air intake to start it. once it's runing it works fine during the day, problem is in the morning, it won't start again I changed fuel pump and filter and stills the same. the CEL sends a code 15, so i started to run the tests indicated in the honda manual (ICM, Coil,), It does have spark but aparently injectors get no signal when cranking. main relay seems to be fine (It cliks and stuff). could it be the ECM? (although check engine light seems to work ok when turning the switch on) or just the ICM? a friend just told me to replace the dizzy with a working one and do so with the ECM, but there's no way to get one here, .I'm about to check the wire between the ICM and ECU. any ideas?
#2
Here are some more tests that you should try. You'll need a volt meter to do these tests.
I would do this in the morning when you are having the starting problem. Unplug the two pin connector to the distributor and unplug the injectors.
Turn the key to the II position, but don't try to start the car. Listen for the fuel pump to turn on for about two seconds when the check engine light does the bulb check. It is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so listen carefully.
With the key remaining in the II position, check for 12V to the blk/yel wire on the distributor plug to body ground. Also check for 12V on the red/blk wire of each injector for voltage to body ground. I use a valve cover bolt as my body ground.
Let us know if you hear the fuel pump prime, and the voltage readings on the distributor and injector connectors.
I would do this in the morning when you are having the starting problem. Unplug the two pin connector to the distributor and unplug the injectors.
Turn the key to the II position, but don't try to start the car. Listen for the fuel pump to turn on for about two seconds when the check engine light does the bulb check. It is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so listen carefully.
With the key remaining in the II position, check for 12V to the blk/yel wire on the distributor plug to body ground. Also check for 12V on the red/blk wire of each injector for voltage to body ground. I use a valve cover bolt as my body ground.
Let us know if you hear the fuel pump prime, and the voltage readings on the distributor and injector connectors.
#3
Here is what I would do. Find the blue wire on the ignitor. That is the output to the coil. Get a test light and put the clip on the battery positive terminal and the test side to the blue terminal on the ignitor. (I use a ledlight but this should work also). It should flash off and on when cranking. If it doesn,t I would replace the ignitor. It it does flash replace the coil. This how every honda tech I know checks a no start.
I hope it helps you.
I hope it helps you.
#6
PAhonda:
I perform the test you told me and here are the reults:
the fuel pump does buzz
the voltage to the injectors is 13v to each one
the blk/yel wire (2p) that comes out from the dizzy is zero (the one in my fingers)
the blk/yel wire that plugs this wire (I supouse comes from the ignitor switch) has 13v
I perform the test you told me and here are the reults:
the fuel pump does buzz
the voltage to the injectors is 13v to each one
the blk/yel wire (2p) that comes out from the dizzy is zero (the one in my fingers)
the blk/yel wire that plugs this wire (I supouse comes from the ignitor switch) has 13v
#8
It doesn't seem like you have a fuel problem. From your tests, and the code 15, I would say that you need an igniter. I am not sure where you are located, but hopefully you can find one from a junkyard.
I have an ignitor and coil for sale in the classified section.
I have an ignitor and coil for sale in the classified section.
#10
Tek310: I perform your tests and here are the results:
I placed the testlight as told and is on when the start switch is off (0) and when is in II it turns off, and finally when crancking (III) it flashes, so is possible the coil is dead or could still be the ignitor?
I placed the testlight as told and is on when the start switch is off (0) and when is in II it turns off, and finally when crancking (III) it flashes, so is possible the coil is dead or could still be the ignitor?